I began archery with the long-term goal of eventually becoming good enough to bow hunt; however, two years into archery class, I am very discouraged at my lack of improvement and am in need of advice going forward. I have been using a bare recurve bow, and though my form has improved, my aim is just as bad as when I first began. I doubt the bow's draw weight or arrows are the issue, as I followed the recommendations of the instructor who first assessed me before purchasing them. I find instinctual shooting extremely difficult, as I have to aim very far below the actual target, but I am unaware of a type of sight that would work for shooting at varying unspecified distances? I am considering switching to a compound bow but am unfamiliar with them, and archery classes in my area only have recurves available for those without their own gear, so I do not know that I could try one first before buying/ordering. What would people recommend in the way of compounds for someone accustomed to a recurve? Am I just kidding myself to think that a compound would help me improve? Do compounds always require a press to be strung/unstrung? This seems like a major disadvantage for a hunting bow? Are you essentially screwed if something goes wrong with the string on a hunt rather than being able to change it on the spot? I just carry my recurve on my back and string/unstring it with my legs when needed; do compound bow hunters string their bow at home and keep it strung the whole time during travel? How much more likely does one run into problems or breakdowns with a compound bow? What kind of extra maintenance do they require? Could I use the same finger position, anchor point, and draw length with a compound as I do with a recurve? Are release aids strictly necessary for a compound bow? Are compounds more difficult to draw than recurves? I am ready to go up in draw weight with a recurve, but if I purchase a compound instead, should I still go up, down, or keep it the same?
What distances are you shooting? I learned with a fiberglass recurve about 65 years ago. Try this: Start at about 5-6 yards and work toward a tight group in the bullseye or kill area of a target. When you are consistent, move back another 5 yards and shoot. Same thing. Many try to start at long ranges and have trouble with instinctive shooting. If...you get off on grouping, move up and work on the grouping. Let's concentrate on the recurve for now. Some here will recommend sights but we need to know what kind of bow and draw weight.
I am actually uncertain of the distances (I will ask the next time I am at class). I am afraid that I do not have much choice regarding the distances at the moment either, as I cannot stand forward of the others shooting, and I sadly do not have my own property to practice on (city apartment). My club does start newbies out at a shorter range, but as I originally had a tight grouping and hit some of my own arrows, when using a club bow and arrows during my first day, they permanently moved me to the longer range for day two. I would like to stick to recurve if I can actually improve enough to use one, as getting a hardy survival bow that will not require repairs or replacement parts that I am unable to do myself is the most appealing option. I use a Bucktrail Elite Talon one-piece recurve with a 30 lb draw weight (bought it very shortly after I began the class). I have a 30-inch draw and use 5/16 40-45 lb spruce shafts with 4-inch parabolic fletching, though I would like to switch to a different shaft material.
Shooting instinctively is tough, but it's how most recurve shooters start out. It's how I started many years ago. My best advice, before you lose interest, would be to get an affordable compound bow with a sight, that you can draw without a problem. Draw weight can be adjusted. Get it sighted in at close range ( 15'-20') until you're confident with your accuracy. And practice, practrice, practice until you are consistant every time. ALWAYs use the same repetition for every shot and ALWAYS use the same EXACT anchor point. Best of luck, it's a lot of fun! Also, if you plan on hunting with your bow, some states have a minimum draw weight . Penna is 35lbs now, it used to be 40lbs.
It seems like it might be worth trying a sight on a recurve before buying a compound? What kind of sight would you recommend? I wonder if the fact that I am left-eye dominant but rely on my right eye, because I am right-handed, could be throwing me off; my arrows consistently go left of where I aim. Sorry, what do you mean by "the same repetition"? I do always use the same anchor point at least. Thanks! Yes, my goal is to work up to a 40lbs draw weight at minimum (when I reach that point, I might reset my goal to 50lbs, as, unless I am mistaken, I believe that is the legal requirement for hunting big game like elk in some states and it would be nice to have a draw weight appropriate for hunting anything, anywhere.) My instructor recommended a 30lbs bow in the beginning to avoid the possibility of injury, as it is a two-hour-long class with an unbroken shoot five, collect, repeat, without a break, and my shoulders were uncomfortably stiff by the second hour when I tried a 35lbs bow during the first week. I no longer feel it all in my muscles shooting the 30lbs for two hours, so I will get a 35lbs when I buy my second bow (which I have been ready to do for a while but had been weighing whether or not it is worth it due to how much I still suck).
By repetition, I mean your stance, posture, draw process, anchor, and release has to be the exact same with every shot. Like I mentioned, different states have different draw weight minimums for big game.
