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New to bowhunting... need help

Discussion in 'Tech Talk' started by brisim, Oct 15, 2009.

  1. brisim

    brisim Newb

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    So I've got my bow, and been shooting for a while now. I'm pretty consistent and plan on sighting it in to get everything set for hunting. Now my question. The bow shop tested it and it shot right at 249 f.p.s. ..I stumped on the broadhead (G5 montec or the rage 2 blade), also at this speed what do you guys think my max distance shot should be? Any help would be great.
     
  2. Bitterman

    Bitterman Weekend Warrior

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    welcome to the site . you will find a lot of friendly, useful information here.

    What size groups are you shooting at what yardage ?

    Thats all I got, having so far not loosed an arrow at a real deer : (

    The real hunters should take over from here.

    Good luck.
     
  3. brisim

    brisim Newb

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    I'd say within a golf ball at 20 yards.
     
  4. Live2Draw

    Live2Draw Die Hard Bowhunter

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    at 249 fps. i would suggest something like a nap thunderhead or a slick trick. less KE required for a pass through
     
  5. WV Hunter

    WV Hunter Die Hard Bowhunter

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    Personally, I would go with a good fixed head. Work to tune your bow so your broadheads fly right with your field points (with the fixed head), and you should have a very good setup that should penetrate well --- regardless of which broadhead you choose. A well tuned bow, and shot placement is key when bowhunting.
     
  6. cirabisi

    cirabisi Newb

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    For how far you can go, at this point I'd say until your comfortable, but really when hunting, not to many people take shots of 50 yards, at least in my neck of the woods, and thats a long shot for some. But if I was you I wouldnt go over 80 yards. Just my opinion tho. I only go upto 30 yards for my shooting lanes in the woods. Any further and i know i might just wound the animal and not kill it. GOOD LUCK!!!
     
  7. brisim

    brisim Newb

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    I appreciate the good info here. So really speed isnt a big issue as long as you make a good shot? and any mechanical or fixed broadheads should work? My concern is, that being new to this, I'd need as big of a cut as possible (the reason for the 2" cut from rage)
     
  8. Cooter/MN

    Cooter/MN Grizzled Veteran

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    Why are you so concerned with getting "as big a cut as possible"?

    Accuracy and penetration is what kills.
     
  9. Live2Draw

    Live2Draw Die Hard Bowhunter

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    Good quality fixed head, keep your shots under 25 yards untill you shoot that golfball group at 35 yards
     
  10. KodiakArcher

    KodiakArcher Die Hard Bowhunter

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    Speed is a small part of the equation. 249 fps for a 600 grain arrow is a lot of energy, not so much for a 300 grain arrow. A lot of traditional guys get complete pass thrus on deer at less than 180 fps. Also to consider; hitting a moose at 50 yards is easy, penetration is difficult. Hitting a deer at 50 yards is difficult but penetrating them is easy. It's a matter of hitting your target with a decently massive arrow that's tipped with a razor sharp head. Any of the heads listed will work fine but you need to take into consideration what it is that you're trying to achieve, your personal abilities to achieve it and the limitations of your equipment. Don't get hung up on the speed issue, there's more to it.
     
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2009
  11. cirabisi

    cirabisi Newb

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    Well said!!;)
     
  12. konrad

    konrad Weekend Warrior

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    Broadhead Selection:

    No matter what the industry advertising folks will tell you, the single most important part of your bowhunting setup is the business end of the arrow…your broadhead point.

    It matters little if you are able to use one pin to sight out to 100 yards and your arrow is still traveling at 300 feet per second if, when your arrow arrives, your broadhead has no ability to penetrate through hair, skin, muscle (where I come from we call it moosle), bone (ribs, scapulae, tibia, etc.) and then critically damage the circulatory system contained within and supplying vital organs. The broadhead must retain its sharpness while cutting, its shape (bent points reduce penetration dramatically), not be easily deflected in its path (it won’t do you any good to properly place your shot only to have the darned thing skittering off into the weeds or worse, the paunch) and it must be able to penetrate bone.

    This final requirement is critical to your success. There are few “Big Game” animals that do not sport skeletons supporting moosle and protecting the vital organs. No, carp don’t count as big game.

    Good broadhead design is based on physics proven by centuries of field experience.

    The cutting edges of a broadhead are simple machines…inclined planes. The more dramatic the angle of incidence, the more energy is required for the edge to continue forward in its path (i.e. it takes more energy to climb a steep set of stairs than a gradually rising ramp). Many of the founders of modern bowhunting believed a three-to-one ratio was the optimum angle for efficient use of an arrow’s energy. That three-to-one represents for every one inch of cutting diameter, there should be three inches of broadhead length.

    More resent studies, provided by one Dr. Ed Ashby; conclusively prove a two cutting edged head requires less energy to penetrate all of the tissues encountered in big game targets. Not only will two bladed heads penetrate fleshy tissue better than three or four bladed heads but when it comes to bone, the two bladed heads stand head-and-shoulders (no pun intended) above the other designs.

    One of the other important features proven to be paramount in head design is the cutting edge itself. A single bevel has a MUCH greater advantage when it comes to splitting bone and passing through fleshy tissues. As the edge encounters resistance, the head turns requiring less force to travel forward.

    Now, it’s up to you to try to find a commercially offered product that will work with your set up. This year, I settled upon the Magnus Stinger, two blade head.

    I find it interesting that many compound archers will suggest a two-bladed head for “low poundage or traditional archers” but won’t follow what they know works for themselves???

    Last Line: Chuck Adams states a one inch group for every 10 yards (i.e. 50 yards=5 inch group). The key is being able to do that EVERY time on the FIRST shot!
     
  13. brisim

    brisim Newb

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    Just an update. I shot at a good buck Saturday morning, and searched for 3 hours. No arrow, blood, hair, nothing. Sunday morning, I stuck a nice 8 pointer, and it fell in its tracks. Thats my first kill with a bow.
     

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