Hello All, My name is Chris and I am a new memeber here to the forums. I am a Marine Corps Veteran and currently a Defense Contractor here in Virginia. I am new to the whole Bowhunting world as well. I have hunted for most of my life but with only guns. I have been interested in Bowhunting for a while, but never really acted upon it. I grew up being taught to shoot a bow right handed. After my time in the Military, I injured my right shoulder pretty bad and found out I do not have the strength to pull back a bow with my right arm. Plus, on top of that, I am left eye dominant. So I wanted to find out if I could shoot a bow left handed and be comfortable with it to the point that I felt like I could teach myself over time to become more accurate and deadly with my shots. I went to a local sporting goods store and shot a left handed bow for the first time. I did feel good shotting it and it peaked my interest even more. Now, I am all about learning more and wanting to get into this form of hunting more extensively. I am currently researching different types of Bows and trying to find one that will fit me best. I know that I need to go try out some different bows before I actually settle on a purchase. I do not want to buy a bow simply because it "looks" nice or is a certain price. My fear is, if I buy one for the wrong reasons, then it will turn me off to the sport and I will not want to use it. Any help, tips, or advice that you can give me will be greatly appreciated. The whole idea of something new that I have no idea about intrigues me and makes me want to know more.
Chris, I'm new here, too. In fact, I wasn't even aware of this site until a personal acquaintance and existing member here contacted me regarding your request for assistance. Defense contractor, eh? Maybe I should grab onto YOUR coat-tails.....(just retired from AF/ANG after 31 years and currently unemployed). Anyway, given the information you've shared....as well as info you've precluded.....I'll assume first and foremost that you're not interested in using a crossbow at this point. Fair enough and no judgment here whatsoever, but if you decide that's the route you want to take, we'll talk shop there, too. In the meantime, we'll address the facts provided. First, I'll assume you're talking compounds here. And, you say you've already tried one left-handed. Good! And you're right, you're going to want to try at least a few different models for fit, balance and comfort. Regarding the learning curve and any concerns over accuracy, keep in mind that several people have lost their limbs and utilized a leather strap around the string to clamp in their teeth for drawing the string back, and are just as deadly shooting their bows. If they can do THAT, swapping to left-hand ought to be a cake walk for you. But first, let's review a little about general design, their differences and their effects on your shooting abilities. Probably the most popular bows today are single-cam models. But they're also a bit more extreme in their draw-force curve....that is, harder to pull back initially, as opposed to, say, two-wheeled or two-cammed models, which are quite a bit "smoother", but a little slower. (There are exceptions, of course) I know Parker utilizes an "EZ-Draw" cam. It's purported to allow one to draw weight that is actually 5-10 LBS higher than what it feels. And since it's creation, I notice several other manufacturers creating similar cams.....Bear, for instance. Point being, you can find a large, round single-cammed bow that will ease the process of learning to shoot left-handed. (Personally, I'm so inept with my left hand, if I tried to throw something with it, I'd probably hit myself in the process.) Next, I'd recommend keeping the poundage low enough to preclude wearing yourself out while practicing, which would subsequently screw with both your accuracy and consistancy. For this, I'd recommend nothing higher than a peak weight of 60 Lbs, initially turned down to 50, and working your muscle groups up to the peak weight over the course of several months while you're simultaneously building muscle memory into your evolving (and improving?) shooting form. Also, were I in your shoes, I'd set realistic incremental goals and lock my brain into progressing to each level in terms of quality vs. quantity. That is, practicing to each level with the ultimate goal of reaching absolute confidence (if not perfection) in my abilities for each, before accepting that it's time to move on to the next. Fact is - as I'm sure you noted when you shot that bow - today's bows have been so finely engineered and constructed that, with a proper tuning job and a few good quality accessories (peep sight, fiber-optic pin sights, arrow rest, and a good release), you can easily and quickly find yourself shoot tight groups out to thirty yards.....regardless which arm you use. Add the increased let-off designed into these things, and you can hold that bow steady for extended periods, and STILL make a deadly shot without causing yourself a hernia. And no, you don't have to spend a hundred bucks on each accessory to have an overall accurate, consistent and deadly piece of equipment. Nor do you have to spend a thousand bucks buying a bow. Yeah, people do it, but mostly, just because they can. Not knockin'em.....just saying, you can build a killing machine for under 600 bucks, complete with arrows, broadheads and the works. And it'll kill just as many deer.....guaranteed. Finally, I'll touch on customer support, quality control in the manufacturing process and, quality of design & accessories/parts . Seems just about everyone swears by the company they buy their bows from, but from what I've observed, when the poop hits the fan, not all companies are the same. The major players in the market are your best bet. I can speak to the quality of several (per customer comments, only), but certainly not all, and only two by personal experience. One, I wouldn't recommend based solely on the fact that when I needed a part, there was virtually no one to contact.....I might as well have bought it at WalMart and returned there for technical assistance.....as if! (They've changed hands several times over the years and just might be fine today, but they killed my confidence back in the early 90's and I won't be back anytime soon) The other, Parker, I have nothing but glowing comments for. But it would behoove you to know ahead of time if the company you decide to hand your money to, is also willing to stand behind you if you should stumble across any manufacturing problems later down the line. It's nice when someone will answer the phone, patch you right over to someone else who knows the equipment intimately, and is all about talking shop with you to make sure you're taken care of properly.....the first time. I hear more good things than bad (there's always some sour apple out there who feels wronged by Santa Clause) regarding Parker, Bowtech, Mathews (of course), PSE and Martin. I wish someone sold Darton and Pearson around here (always wanted to get my mitts on their products), but I'm just not that lucky, so I can't say anything about them. Another aspect of choosing a bow - for me, anyway - is how consistent their products are when they come from the factory. Most look absolutely identical, right down to the number of wraps in their serving, while others seem to be manufactured in different factories, by different people, all having their own standards! Inconsistent quality in strings, tightness of accessories, and models of accessory parts! I've had a few manufacturers send multiple bows with missing parts. But that brings up another point. These were package deals at a "big box" store; I can only assume these package deals are gathered, packaged and shipped separately (and differently) from the single bows that are shipped to archery pro-shops. I've never sat down with a shop owner to compare notes, but suspect the assembly-line mentality behind these big-box store packages tends to screw with quality control at the manufacturing level. Regardless, when I see this lack of attention to detail, it immediately puts me on guard toward that manufacturer. Bottom line, listen for too many comments regarding lousy quality control or attention to detail and avoid those companies. Nuff said on that.... Last tip (this has already taken too much time this evening). If you're going to buy a package deal from a large retail store, make sure the bows on display have some sort of locking strap or device that precludes knuckleheads from pulling back the strings, dry-firing the darned things, and them hanging them back up. Otherwise, the bow you pick up, choose and buy, may be seriously damaged. If they don't use some sort of anti-knucklehead device to preclude this, DON'T buy your bow there! Check the cams for dented, warped or gouged tracks.....people will drop the dang things on the floor, hang'em back up and sneak out of there with their tails between their legs. Check the strings - from one end to the other - for wear & tear. The store may have used that bow for customers to try out....over and over and over. Another tell-tail sign is that the limbs have been turned down and never re-tightened. Screw that....you don't want it. And finally, make sure you get all the accessories that came with the bow. All package deals come with arrow rest, quiver and peep-sight, as well as an owner's manual, and some (like Martins) come with six spare draw-length modules (for changing draw-length from 26" to 30"). Make sure you receive and take everything you're paying for. (Years ago, I bought such a package for my first bow. I insisted they give me the bow in an unopened box) That's all I've got for now. Feel free to ask questions if you have more. And I'm sure you'll get more from others on here. Good luck and "shoot straight!" Unforgiven..
Unforgiven, Hey, just wanted to say thanks for the reply to my post and passing along what seems to be a great wealth of knowledge. This process is for sure a very time consuming one, but I want to make sure that I am getting the best quality for my money. There is so much for me to learn regarding this sport, but I think that is what drives me to it all. This is something that I do not have that much information on, so with that said, it drives me more to want to learn more and learn a new skill that I can pass along to my children. So I see that you are part of Virginia... What part? Yes, I am talking compund bows. I have done a lot of reaearch on the different types that offer different sizes, cams and whatever else companies throw at you to get you to buy their product. Honestly, I am keeping an open mind as to what I will purchase until I can get somewhere to shoot some different bows. I am going to Greentop this Saturday and hopefully spend some valuable time talking and trying on a few different bows to see what my style of shooting really is. I mean in all honesty, I shot one bow left-handed that was a Martin at one of the big box stores. I couldn't tell you whether it was a dual cam, single cam or anything else about the bow except for the kid that was helping me with the bow seemed to be full of himself regarding what he was telling me. Again, it was the typical big box store mentality where you get someone who "THINKS" they know what they are talking about instead of someone who really does. I think that the folks at Greentop will be more able to actually help answer any questions. In terms of shooting a crossbow, to be honest, I thought about it, but told myself that the only way I will shoot a crossbow is if I am unable to shoot a compound bow left handed. Since I can, and I do feel comfortable doing so, I will stick to compound for now. My father-in-law loves to bow hunt but is just physically unable to shoot a regular bow anymore. So he went to a crossbow and is still able to enjoy the sport. Great information about the set-up and to actually start at a lower drawing weight. It makes sense. I wouldn't walk into a gym and automatically start trying to bench 350lbs. I would want to work myself up to that weight. So starting low and practicing and working my way up seems to be the best way to start. I do have a question regarding your post... You stated that you would set incremental goals for yourself and work towards almost perfecting them before you moved on... Can you give me some examples of what you mean as far as those goals and what would some for a beginner like me be? Ex. Hit the target consistently from 25 yards? Not being stupid, but is that what you mean? As you stated in your post, Part of my decision will be based on exactly what companies can provide the best type of support long term. That is important to me because in all seriousness, a company that can sell you a $700+ bow but cannot stand behind it, is in my opinion worse than the company that can sell me a $100 bow but will actually stand behind their product. Name is not most important to me in terms of what I am looking for. I am looking for a bow that I can grow my skills with and eventually pass down to my sons as they get older and into the sport, which I am sure they will. If you don't mind me asking, Where do you shop for your archery needs? I do not mind traveling a little bit if it means that I can actually get the help and support I need to actually make a very well informed decision about buying a bow. On another note, anytime you want to hop on my coat-tails in terms of the defense industry, let me know. I have been in this business for almost a decade now, and love it. What did you do in the AF/ANG? Well thanks again for all the help. Look forward to hearing back from you. Chris
Chris, I'm up in Sterling, just a mile or two from Dulles airport. I worked on fighter aircraft weapon systems (A-10, F-16A/B & C/D, F-4C, D & E, F-15A). I get some from Cabelas (raw carbon shafts, fletch, etc.), Lancaster Archery, some from local stores, but do all my own work. Listen, I have more to share, but I'm up to my armpits in alligators today....I'll have to get back to you as soon as I get a down day. Took a turkey with the bow today, then shot a huge Doe right at dusk and will have to get out there at the crack of dawn to track her down.....pretty sure I heard her go down, but didn't have the flashlight power for a tracking job. (Might have to share some of my bounty with the resident coyotes) Working 2-10 afterwards and 7-5 on Monday. I'll try to get back to you on Tuesday. Ralph
I'm not going to type that much, but I am left eye dominant but right handed......I shoot left handed. Took a little getting used to after shooting right handed so long, butnis great. Good luck!
