So I decided I wanted to try this whole build my own arrows thing. Well, baby steps for me on this one. I wanted a decent FOC and an arrow spined right for my bow. I chose Easton Flatlines D.O.A.'s due to they have decent weight for 3D and I could use them for hunting as well. Bow is an Element RKT set (for the time being and will go up after 3D is over) at 63lb and 29" draw. I went with a 340 spine considering how harsh the RKT cams are on arrows. Standard Easton inserts and nocks. I went with blazer vanes fletched normal. I usually shoot a 100gr point and broad head but, this time I went with a 125gr tip I wanted a really good FOC and added weight. My FOC is 12.67% now. My total weight is 385gr. It's not as heavy as I want for hunting but, they fly great!! So how does this set up sound to everyone else on here?
Sounds like a sweet setup and they look cool too! From your picture it looks like there isn't any white on your fletching or shaft, will that change when the hunting season arrives?
Are you going to be able to see these arrows after they pass through an animal? That being said, they are sweet looking and will most likely perform excellent for you! I'm considering some kind of fluorescent wraps for mine so I can find them again easily. Arrows aren't something that I relish leaving in the woods for someone to trip and fall on, so I want to be sure I can retrieve mine after I shoot.
For hunting season, I will use white wraps and some bright color (not sure what yet) fletchings and nocks. It is possible I will go up in weights also. May do 50gr inserts along with 125gr heads. That is if the spine can handle it coming out of this bow at 70lb. At that weight I should still be close to 300fps. Close, probably not over. I know with my last set up of 370gr arrows it shot 318fps. If I am at or above 280fps with 430gr, I don't think I will have any issues what so ever and that is my goal. Over 400 and over 280.
Definitely will want to bump up to .300's if you're gonna try to shoot it at 70#, but realistically, you could stay with a .340 shaft, and shoot it as it is, and hunt without any problems. As it's currently set up, you're probably near 70ft/# of KE, which is more than plenty for anything in North America except maybe Grizzly or Polar Bears...
Well said, OH bowhntr. I think the Griz, Polar Bears that you mentioned and maybe Alaska/Yukon Moose as a third you might want to bump up for, but for everything else I'd say you're just fine!!
FOC is still pretty standard.. If it were me, and its not, I would be bumping up to a .300 spine and adding more weight up front. I like something in the 430-450 grain range and a 15%+ FOC. On the subject of speed. I wouldn't aim for certain speed goals. You will NOT notice a speed difference from 280-270 or even 265 for that matter. Your pin change will be absolutely minimal. Build an arrow for accuracy, forgiveness, and efficiency... not speed. My $0.02
Pretty darn well now that I got the bow back in tune. D-loop moved on me some how. Shooting like darts now.
I am probably going to go up in weight but I'll either change to a heavier arrow or change to a .300 spine if they make this arrow in that spine and do a 50gr insert. That would put me around the 435gr mark which is what I would like to be at.
Why change the weight when you have it all tuned and shooting good? 340s are ideal at the weight and length you quoted but may be a little weak if you go much higher, especially if you have a hard cam. JMO
I want more Momentum and KE. That all. After today I'm not so sure I need it though. I had an arrow pass through my little shooter buck and my back stop. The backstop is made from 4 layers of old carpet and 2 layers of padding. That was at 40yd. I bought a new bag target back in Feb. these things are penetrating 14"-18" on every shot no matter where I hit it. I'm nauseating that would be due to the higher FOC of these vs the last ones that were around 8%.
That's a good setup for 65#, but as said, I would bump up to a .300 for 70#s. Remember when you add wraps you'll add quite a bit of weight to the rear and reduce your FOC. One thought that is a huge cost savings and works well, instead of getting inserts which are stupid expense, get bolts and cut them down. You also make your weight more accurate. Instead of a tolerance in your insert, and weight, you can put them together for one weight, so they'll be more accurately weighted. All 10 of my arrows weigh between 429 and 430 grains. My insert and weight were a combined total of 30 grains. Add that to my 125 tip for a total of 155 grains. With a .300 spine you can get away with feathers on the rear for extra FOC. Instead of wraps, use a lighted knock. Cost should be about the same. Then you wouldn't have to add wraps. Just some thoughts.
One clear sign of clean arrow flight is increased penetration. Less wobble = greater speed and less friction on impact= deeper penetration. On cold mornings when you are trying to draw with cold muscles, you'll be glad to be shooting a few pounds less. I nearly had a nice ten point get by two seasons ago because I couldn't get my bow pulled back on a cold (for Alabama) morning. It took three tries before I finally made the shot. I killed two deer the previous weekend when the temperatures were higher and didn't think I would ever struggle.
Muzzy, I swear I just thought to myself right before I read this, wonder how much a set of 60lb limbs would run me???
I may be wrong on this, so correct me if I am, but I have heard before that it's better to have a 60# bow turned all the way up than have a 70# bow turned down. I heard the reason was since the limb bolts are loser it increases the chances of damage to the bow i.e. if it drops the string coming off and etc. I might be wrong, but if it didn't leave a hole in my wallet I'd go for the 60# limbs.
While this may be true, to some very far extent. You will not see the ill effects to any one bow in any normal life span of the product.
