I have a new IQ Pro Hunter Retina Lock Bowsight. 2 lock pin and 1 floater pin. I have a two part question. I’m having trouble holding my second pin on the target, any advise? I can on the top pin, shoot very accurate…. Also, if the level bubble is off, will the Retina Lock be off? Is there a secret to anchor level right when you draw your compound bow? Thanks!!
This sounds like a loaded bunch of questions. I'll do my best to unpack it. When you say you can't hold the second pin on target, what do you mean? Is it bouncing up and down? Left/right? I assume you're shooting the second pin at a longer distance than your first. Keep in mind, that you will never, ever be able to hold the bow perfectly still like a rifle, especially at longer distances. The pin will float around. The more you fight the pin to keep it still, the worse you will end up being and will cause target panic and trigger punching, causing you inaccuracy. The correct way, and the idea here is to draw the bow, anchor, put the pin on the target, then pretty much forget about the pin and stare at the X or center of the bullseye. Execute your shot. You may have a bit of an issue with how the bow fits you however. If you're draw length isn't quite right, this will also affect how well the bow holds on target. Draw weight too, if its too much weight, you'll fight and struggle with the bow. This all only gets worse at longer distances. If the bow fits you properly, you might want to play with stabilizer weight. Lots of folks shoot a bow/stabilizer combo that is way too light. This causes bad pin float in some instances and any fit issues with draw length and weight will be amplified. The bow is a system, you included in that system. It all needs to fit YOU. What works for me, may not be for you. Experiment with the above and I bet you find the sweet spot. As for the sight. I'm not overly familiar with that sight, but I do believe I understand the concept. I think you are to setup the IQ so that when you come to full draw and anchor, its aligned. Do this by closing your eyes, drawing the bow and anchoring, then checking. Adjust till its right. Of course this all goes back to your bow fitment in the first place. I'd focus on that part first. Your draw and anchor should be second nature, comfortable and you shouldn't have to move your head around, etc, to get into your anchors. If you do, adjust until you don't. Then work on getting the IQ on the site adjusted to that perfect, comfortable anchor you established. Hope this helps.
I'm also not familiar with that sight, but just looked it up. IQ's instructions say to sight in the top pin at 20 yards, then to adjust the retina lock while you're drawn, anchored, and holding the top pin on target. Obviously need some help from somebody to do this. This sets the retina lock (RT) for your form/anchor. Then you sight in the second pin individually, making sure the RT is centered perfectly, and you'd then sight in the mover for a third distance individually with the RT centered. After that the mover would also be set to be out of alignment uniformly to the other two pins, but as you moved it down it would move further out of alignment due to the cant and work out... I think? Since you adjusted the RT to fit what you perceive to be "level", but perhaps not true level, then your bubble may be off when you have the RT aligned. You have adjusted the RT to YOU, which may actually be slightly out of level. I'm not sure what you mean about not being able to hold the second pin on target. Do you mean you can hold the top pin more steady at 20 yards but the second pin at 30 yards bounces around a lot more? Like muzzyman88 said, the farther you try to shoot the more your normal "pin float" is going to wander away from the spot you're trying to hold it on. The further the target, the more shooting form comes into play. Muzzyman88 gives good advice about making sure the bow fits you, it makes a big difference in how steady you can hold. You can't shoot with good form if the bow doesn't fit you. Your pin wanders all over the place and you end up punching the release off as the pin wanders by the bullseye. You don't want to get into that habit. Look up " T-form" and you'll get a good idea of what you should look like at full draw. It is very useful to draw and anchor and then have someone take a pic of you, then you can analyze what changes you'd like to make. Focus on one at a time. Lot of good youtube videos out there on stance, bow arm position, draw arm position, body position, anchor position on face, and shot process.
