So, I'm finishing up the final touches on our family room remodel (just have to install two thermostats, touch up paint a few spots, and it's done). Now, it's on to the deck. Basically, from what my parents know of the person who owned this home through most of its life and whom built this deck (they were acquaintances), the deck is about 15yrs old. It's weathered, the deck boards are pulling up in a few spots, the railing is weak, and frankly, it's an eyesore. Now, I don't really want to resurface the entire deck seeing as it's ~580 sq feet, and would cost a small fortune. So, my original plan was to clean the deck, pull the deck boards, and flip them over, and reattach using screws this time (he used smooth shank nails). Well, I've been doing some measuring and researching, and the more I find, the more I'm realizing how much of a code violation and somewhat hack job this deck is. The guy who built this (the owner of the home at one time) was also a contractor, which is humorous seeing as I'm having to repair a lot of his work. First, the railing height is not to code. He has it built at 30" all around, which is 6" shy of code for one side of the deck at its current ground height, and 12" short for the front of the deck where it's 10' + to the ground. I can't even get the 36" height out of the existing posts (was my original plan), let alone 42" for the front. In addition, the post spacing is well beyond the 6' minimum I've found to be the norm for code, and to make it worse, the spacing is random (one spacing is 7' 3.25", another is 8'6", another is 7'6", etc). I had thought about cutting ALL of the 4x4s flush with the rim joist, and then building a new railing that bolts to the outer joist all around to get my height. I don't really want to do this, since it eliminates be being able to use an in-rail baluster I was planning to use. Since the 4x4's are structural, can I marry them with another piece (or as someone suggested, cap the outsides with 2x4s and then cap the top to get my extension)? If not, what is my best option here to get this deck to code? I've attached a picture for you guys to reference. You can see the irregular spacing in the deck posts, and the low railing height. As for the deck boards, do I have to worry about cupping after being down for ~15 yrs? That is to say ASSUMING this guy took the time to actually put the deck boards down with the cup facing upward, will removing them, and flipping them essentially cause a water trap with the cup down now? Thanks, guys.
What about taking the tops off the 4X4's.....using the existing posts as structural.....and covering them with PVC (and use a PVC ballustrade)?
You're talking about the post caps, and then getting my height with the PVC sleeve? The only reason I ask is I can only get 35" to the top of the post (assuming the cap is removed). I'm assuming I would have to leave the PVC sleeve extending past the top to get my desired height? Would this ~7" of unsupported extension be "legal?" Sorry if I misinterpreted what you said.
If the newells (post) are sturdy you could take down the railing cut the tops and box some new newell post around the old ones. With some cedar 1x. Re-install a new rail system. Never heard of a 42" rail height in 25 years of residential carpentry. Commercial maybe. As far as the "cuped" boards. Nobody checks the cup of a board. The crown yes. Spacing here is 4" maximum inbetween the pickets. No one is going to come and inspect your exsisting deck for code violations.
Yes I meant the crown (long day yesterday, and this was the third time typing this post to other forums). Anyways, about the question? Will the crown still be significant enough after laying for 15yrs? If anything, I would suspect the crown is facing down in some spots seeing as a few deck board are curling upward away from the rim joists. As for the rail height, I'm no inspector, but the 42" number I found line when researching. That would aplly to the front end of my deck where it's litterally 10+ feet up. I would post the site, but I'm posting this from my phone. As for cutting the posts, what you suggested was also an idea I had considered. Thanks.
The railing most likely will break loose if any significant lateral force is placed on them. If I'm going to go through replacing them, it might as well be to code and done right.
What we have done in the past is cut the old posts off at deck level (or an inch below) and install new ones in the locations that you want. You may have to be creative with the deck board - like finding a way to move the hole cut for the post to the new location, but that isn't hard - especially if you can use a new one. Then run a deck board over the top of the old location. As for flipping the deck boards, get yourself a real good pressure washer (rent one or better yet, hire a pro) and take about 2 hours and wash it really good - you'd be amazed at the results.
Thanks, Jay. The relocation sounds good, but then I have to figure a solution to getting the posts that next to the stair stringers relocated. As for powerwashing, that was the plan, but I was reading that you can actually damage the wood fibers this way making the stain/sealer not appear as uniform. Could just be a matter of pressure, nozzle angle and distance I suppose, too.
