I am shooting Muzzy MX3's and they are consistantly grouping about 6" right of my FP's @ 30yds. Is this normal? I talked with the guys at the local range and they said all I had to do was move my rest towards the FP's (so left in my case) and some how my FP's and broadheads would start getting closer together and once they are grouping together adjust my sights back to bullseye. Does this sound right to you guys? Thanks in advance!
That sounds about right. I dont know if I have ever gotten any exactly like my field points though but very close. Mkes surewthe arrow spine is right also or you will never get close.
Have you paper and/or walk back tuned your bow yet? If not give that a shot then try your broad heads again.
The advice they gave is spot on, but it could be a spine issue as well. Hitting right (assuming you are a right handed shooter) means your spine could be weak. Just something else to consider.
No because you would've adjusted your sights so that it hit where you want it to with the FP on it. So then when you put the broadhead on it will show any stiff/weak reaction.
I have mx3's and i followed kenny's video here is the link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dm_mBH9lhRw hope this helps
I hear what you are saying, but I don't understand. My FP's are 100gr, same as my broadheads. So what is different that would bring out the stiff/weak reaction. Thank you guys for the quick reply's. I am at work so I will watch the video link (thanks Blue) and do a little reading about walk back tuning as well as paper tuning (thanks OHbowhunter). I appreciate any further advice, I will process and let you guys know how things go.
The FP does not cause the resistance on the front end of the arrow that the broadhead will. Obviously the FP is flat against the shaft and the BH has the blades which stick out. Once the BH is on there it changes the dynamics of the flight and will show you if your spine is stiff/weak because of it.
It depends on how technical you want to go. If it were me (and it's not).... I would bareshaft tune with your FP's to verify and adjust your spine. You can adjust your spine if it is off by adjusting your arrow length, tip weight , adjusting DW. Once you bareshaft tune and you get your spine and nock point verifyed/dialed in then shoot your BH's and see what happens. You could move your rest but if you have to move it more than an 1/8"-3/16" it's likely a band-aid for the real problem. IMO.
^^^^^This Now...if it were ME, I'd make sure I had center shot set, before I did anything. THEN, I'd tune with the large, fixed blade BH's. You'll find out, really quickly, how close or "off" you are.
Ok, I watched the video and that sounds easy enough and it is pretty much exactly what the shop was telling me. I am probably going to go this route just because season is coming up so quick. In the future (for next season) I do want to get more technical and learn how to do some of the things mentioned above (thanks GFY & GMMAT).
Question for everyone... and this is a broad question not specific to SR's situation. Why do almost all shops take the easy route and not help people perfectly tune an arrow? Or at least give them the option to learn how to do it. It seems like every shop out there, including the one I go to, just want to take the easy fast route and put band aids on tuning problems. In fact, some shops don't even bring up tuning unless the customer asks about it. Are they that pressed for time not to help their customers get it right? Edit: I understand that not every hunter cares about having a perfectly tuned arrow. They just want to kill deer. But still, you would think there would be some shops out there that would push good tuning practices.
yes since season is right around the corner start focusing on your broadheads and retuning your bow to them not your field points.
This... and after over two years of writing the back-page column addressed to archery dealers in an industry trade magazine and countless shop visits and interviews, I'd say 90% of them wouldn't know HOW to help you.
Ok, I am going to try and hijack this back just for one more question. When I do go about tuning everything properly, how do I know if my spine is right?
IMO, bareshaft tuning is the best way to check spine and nock point. There are many many different ways to approach this but the result should be the same. Again, if it were me this is the steps I would take. Papertune your FP's and get as close as you can. This will tell you pretty close where your spine and nock point is. Bareshaft tune your FP's. This is basically consists of taking an un-flected arrow and shooting it. Since the arrows have no fletchings to correct arrow flight it give you best indication as to how your arrow is flying. I would start at 10 yards and gradually move back as you dial it in. Move back to at least your max. hunting distance. The farther back you go, the more accurate your tune is. I personally go back to 30 yards. Once you have your FP's bareshaft tuned you know your spine and nock point is perfect. Now shoot you BH's (with fletched arrows, never shoot BH's without fletchings on) and I'm guessing if you arrow is spinning true with your BH's it will hit very close if not perfect to your FP's. You can make minor adjustments for your BH's then if necessary. Refer to the easton tuning guide for step by step procedures on how to do all of these things. Feel free to ask away if not clear. http://www.willowcreekarchery.com/Easton-arrow-tuning_guide.pdf
Brad nailed it. Good luck with it all. Personally I would follow his advice and get everything tuned up before the season instead of just putting a band aid on the problem.
