I have noticed that they make a whistling noise when I shoot them. I was just wondering if anyone has had any problems with them when they shot at an animal with them. I am worried they might be more inclinded to jump my string.
Are they the 2 or 3 blade? I have heard the 3 blade whistle but I have not experienced any whistling on the 2 blade.
mine does not whistle but they do not hit the same as my field points. I was told at the pro shop that I would be in the exact same spot as my field points. That is Bull. I was about 3-4" low and 2' to the left.
Sorry I lied. Sorry. I went to the woods today and practice shot from my stand. In the woods where it is quieter, I found my three blades do whistle. Shooting at the house I couldn't tell it, but in the woods it was extremely noisey. However, with my bow shooting at 295 fps I don't know if it will make a difference. I do plan on buying some 2 blades this week and see if they have a different point of impact, similar to my field points.
Hum thats funny. Two different proshops and one academy outdoors store and NAP says these broadheads require no tuning but you think they do? I ask the question to the proshops that since these heads are wider and more like a fixed blade would that be a problem and should they be tuned. And I was told NO definately not. $40.00 later your saying they should be? What about the two blades do they need tuning also?
my advice to you is to just try them out your going to get mixed feelings about any type of equipment I bought the NAP 2 blade bloodrunners im going to try them out to see if i like the way they fly
Long beard gobbler thanks for your kind response. I started off just trying to answer the first guys question about the noise and telling him my experience with them. I adjusted my sights and they are dead on. I to am going to try the two blade heads and see how I like them. I was just trying to give out info and ask for some also. I love your choice of bow. I just got the 2010 Turbo Hawk from hoytt and love it. I hope you are just as pleased with your maxxis (I am sure you will be). Good luck this season.
I'm sorry for how I came off sounding. Every bow should be "tuned" (paper, walk back, etc) I think even if one is only shooting field tips, just my opinion. Some broadheads require some more adjustments to get the broadheads to hit with the field points, above and beyond the tuning you started with. I am surprised that your bloodrunners are not hitting pretty close with your field points. The differences in point of impact your getting reminds me more of like shooting Muzzy's or other fairly large surface area head where there may be a discreapancy between the two. Again, I'm sorry for coming off blunt. Edit: I forgot to to add. No I don't think the bloodrunners require any "tuning" above and beyond. I'm with NAP and the what the proshop are saying. All we need to do is figure out why your bloodrunners and field points aren't hitting close or dead on with each other.
Iowa Bowhunter all is cool. I just simply do not know. This is my first time shooting these type heads on my new setup. I even tried different arrow shafts to see if the splines were different. I shot the easton flatlines 500, the beman 400 ics hunters and the gold tip 5575 hunters. The bow is a Hoytt turbo hawk shooting 60 lbs and 28.5" dl. All arrows hit in the same spot which was low and left.I personally like the easton arrows best and want to get the 2 blade heads and give them a try. Espescially since I found that my 3 blades do make a heck of a whistling noise when shot. Once again all is fine. I know in print things sound different than you mean them because your expression cant be seen. No offense taken and i hope you have a great season. I also enjoyed your photos on the other thread from the elk trip.
i shot my field points and shot my 2 blade and i didnt need to make much of a change at all..just a slight, i mean slight right to left, but nothing really was needed.
At what distance??? Those .500 flatlines are considerably lighter than either of the other two, they should hit HIGHER than either of the other two..... 6.5gpi vs. 8.4 gpi, is gonna be OVER 50 grains difference in a 28" shaft..... .500's are TOO weak for your set-up (bordering on DANGEROUSLY weak), and Flatlines are not an overly durable shaft, for hunting. I'd recommend EITHER of the other two over the Flatlines everyday of the week. You don't want to be this guy..... If they don't hit the same as your field points, then YES, the BOW ABSOLUTELY needs tuned. "PRO shops" aren't always the BEST place to get advice. I've heard more than a few horrid stories about some of the things pro shops have recommended, such as those .500 spine arrow for a bow that is bordering on needing .340's rather than .400's.... HOGWASH, If the bow ain't tuned, you can adjust the sights for one distance, but it's not going to fix the problem at a longer distance. You need to take a little time and Broadhead Tune that bow. See this link for some guidance.... http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=539460
ok I am confussed. what do you mean by properly tuned bow? I have heard of tuning the arrow but if my bow was out of tune, wouldn't my pro shop notice that? once again I might not be understanding the terminology.
10pt, You've got a lot to learn.... No offense intended, but you've got a LOT to learn. A bow needs to be tuned to the hands of the shooter. I can set a bow up and get it close for someone, then THEY have to shoot it to fine tune it, set sights specifically where THEY want them, etc. I find that my general sight picture puts arrows a touch to the left of where someone else will have if they shoot the same bow. But beyond that, to have that bow FINELY tuned, you really need to BH tune it. Shoot a FP, then shoot a BH, adjust the rest to make it so BH's and FP's hit same spot, then that bow is TUNED. If you can get FP's and BH's hitting the same pattern at 40yds, then you have a fairly well tuned bow. Check out this link.... http://www.eastonarchery.com/pdf/tuning_guide.pdf
ohbowhntr no offense taken. I looked this subject up on you tube and the links that you guys have provided. I had adjusted my sights and my rest, I was just really confused on the terminology. I do still need to fine tune the rest some. Thanks for all you guys info, I have learned a huge amount. I am dissapointed that my pro shop did not take time to assist me in this area. But once again thanks for everyone's help and I promise no offense was ever taken.
10pt, There are a LOT of shops out there that lack a fair amount. I know the guy in my shop regularly recommends some people use mechanical BH's rather than trying to tell them how to tune their bows, and I think it's in part because some of them just won't get it anyhow. Not saying you're one of those guys, because if you were, you'd have never come here with the issue in the first place. There is so much to learn that oftentimes we think we know something, then we find out we didn't have a CLUE!!! MANY, MANY guys buy arrows based on the WEIGHT of the arrow paying no attention to the SPINE which is far more important in the overall realm, including myself at one time. Now I buy what will spine right with my bow after blowing up 8 of a dozen arrows before I found out I had the wrong damned spine, fortunately, I never ended up with one sticking out of my hand. For BH's it becomes even more critical to have the correct spine though, and when the spine is weak, then the BH often times will consistently shoot off to the right. You adjust the rest until it looks crazy out of arrangement and still have the same issue, then it becomes obvious what the real problem is..... Stiffer spine vs. weaker spine will almost ALWAYS be easier to tune. Several guys here, including myself, have archery programs that can run a set-up and figure the correct spine for a particular bow, and often times save guys $100 or more because they don't buy the WRONG arrows.
