^^^ This Answer ^^^ Broadheads highlight poor tuning with erratic flight. They do not generally cause it unless something is really, really off. Muzzys are too good a head to cause problems like you describe.
Matt, We've all been there. Be patient and don't try to make too many changes at once. There are a lot of resources to help you. Be careful of bowshops, some are good but most, not so much. There is no replacement for the time it takes to tune. First get some soap and water... you'll need that to wash your mouth out a few times. Make sure you have an easily tunable rest and are correctly spined. There are several rests but the Octane and the Whisker Biscuits are good and easily tunable. Don't worry about your sight too much yet except to keep you on the target. Start with aligning your your center shot. That is, the arrow should be perfectly straight coming off the string from every angle when on the rest. Your nock set, not your arrow on your string should be approximately 1/8 above center. That's because the nock is approximately 1/4 inch wide, half of that would be 1/8. You can measure the nock to get a more precise distance but it should be half the nock width.That is your verticle alignment. The other starting point is your horizontal alignment which means you are in the center of your sight window. That's a little harder to judge but a torpedo level works pretty well for me. put the level on your cable guard and set the bow where it is level in a vice then set your arrow on the rest and put the level on it. That should get you really close if you have a straight cable guard. A trick I use to get started is walk back with a bare shaft. I shoot it into the target at about 6 feet and without moving my head look at the nock. I should see nothing else but the nock. If you see arrow to the right of the nock move your rest slightly to the left and try again. Once I get that correct, I move out another step until I get this consistent to about 5 yards and hitting the same spot. Now shoot one with the vane, it should be clean as well. If not you probably have a vane clearance issue that needs resolving before you move forward. Lip stick works great to identify clearance issues.That should get you started. You can now set your sight and be close enough to hit the target at twenty with a vaned arrow. You may even want to take a shot with a BH and I'll bet you are going to be really close to hitting the same hole as your field tip. 2-3 inches at twenty yards would be likely. Now if you are that close you will be able to tell which way to fine tune your rest. If the BH hits two inches left of the field tip move it ever so slightly to the right and try again. This is all assuming your arrow spine is correct and you are shooting consistently and not torquing with your bow hand. To keep from torquing, you can tape your fingers together with some electrical tape. I know, it sounds stupid but it works. All this should get you very close to where you need to be. At 2-3 inches, you can probably set your sight and hunt with your bow until after the season as long as your are consistently hitting the same 2-3 inches and not walking around the target. After the season, you can tinker a bit more to get it perfect. Just have some more soap and water ready...
As most have said, perhaps a tuning problem BUT when the MX-4 first came out I also had bad flight from them. I currently use the MX-3...........both 100 grain and the new 125 grain shoot well for me.
Ballistic coefficients are significantly different when you're talking field tips vs. broad heads! Look at how long your broad head is compared to your field tip, then hang over an inch in diameter of blades across it and you've got a different flexing/loading/energy absorbing arrow than with a field tip(during your release cycle the arrow flex changes). You'd see what I mean if you watched ultra slow motion of your arrow launching. Tuning is the key. One other suggestion I have is trying a heavier head. Heavier broad heads typically mean more forgiving tendencies as well as increased penetration. Mechanical broad heads can help without having to deal with your fixed blades causing wind planing if you think that's the sole cause of your erratic arrow flight, but I wouldn't think so with your moderate weight gold tip arrows. I shoot fixed blades exclusively and have for 20 years, they sure help identify minor tuning issues I wasn't aware of with just field tips.
Matt, I dont mean any offense by this, but are you sure theyre the right weight? That would cause some crazy flights and is an innocent mistake.
Hi guys. old profile was messed up. Anyways, it turns out that it was 2 problems. 1 was my form. I used to shoot with a death grip until my Pro shop corrected me. No one in my family hunts so i taught myself everything. apparently gripping causes torque! 2nd problem was tuning. My NAP Apache rest failed me! The adjustment screws stipped out and i could not tighten it. So i put on the old wisker biscut and wala! perfect bullet holes! Went outside and made some 50 yard shots in low light to see if the arrow flew w/o wobble (Lumenock). PERFECT FLIGHT!Im actulally slicing vanes at 30 yards with the Muzzys lol. Thanks for all the help, especially Muzzyman and InnerX CBS!
no offence, I actually thought about this. I heard that a heavyer broadhead (125g) allows more stable arrow flight. I have corrected the problem tho, but i may experiment durring the off season
