Ok I just got the mathews Z7 extreme a few weeks back changing from the hoytt maxxis. Friday of this last week I put a new qad drop away rest on the bow. At 20 yards 4 arrows will all touch but at 30 40 and 50 yards the arrows spread apart and even drop significantly. I keep telling myself that I have to get use to the shorter bow (even if it is only 3 inches) and the drop away rest. But i had so much confidence in the hoytt I am really wondering if I made a bad decission on the mathews.
Have you tried other arrows? How long does your rest make contact with your arrow before it drops away? It could be a combo of things. Don't get demoralized yet!
no i didnt have the drop away on the hoytt I had a nap 360. and I assume the rest falls away at string release. How can I tell? the pro shop put it on for me
It doesn't sound like a bow issue. I have one and don't have any problems with it. There are a ton of people on this board that can attest to that. I sure wouldn't get demoralized. Once you get this thing figured out, you'll be thankful.
A buddy of mine has that bow and it is a killing maching! I've seen him shoot awesome groups at 50 yards. He will only use a whisker bisquit. He said he had similar problems and the whisker bisquit rest was the solution. Anyways keep shooting man! Try a whisker busquit you can pick one up for like $50 or less. Could be worth it!
Sounds like a tuning issue to me... Put up you specs too, and it will be easier for folks to diagnose what's going on. (Bow weight & draw length, arrow length, spine & weight, tip weight... the more info the better) Did the shop have you paper or walk back tune your bow?
well, at least you walked away from hoyt! I'd go back to the shop and have them paper tune it with you shootin it. they may be able to identify the cause.
I have had the bow paper tuned and it was fine. I am about convienced the qad rest is the problem. I am shooting 69 lbs 28.5 dl 27.5 inch blue streak 250s with 100 grain tips. what gets me is at 20 yards it groups awesome 30 40 50 are all over the place. I have never had to adjust the pins only the whole sight before. if 20 was on then so was 30 40 and 50. but now its very erratic.
Unless your shop shot at the paper from different distances paper tuning only means your arrow was flying straight at the moment it hit the paper. My QAD is in contact with the arrow for the first few inches and then it's completely out of the way. Someone on this site had a QAD that wasn't set up right and it didn't drop away enough to clear the fletch. You can check for clearance by having someone put lipstick on the rest while you're at full draw. (obviously, this needs to be done carefully) Lipstick will mark to the last point the arrow had contact with the rest. If you see lipstick halfway down the arrow or on the fletch, there's a problem. (and this is why you have to be at full draw with the lipstick is applied to the rest.) Also, if you can spare to dull up some broadheads, an any flight issues should be really apparent if you use them instead of field points.
You'll have to double check me, but I went through the arrow selection for carbon express and it looks like they recommend using the 350s with your setup. How sure are you that everything is square?
I'd start with checking for rest contact you can use lipstick on the fletching and see if it is wiped away anywhere on the rest. If its all good then I look at walk back tuning you'll be suprised how much it can improve groups. If your crazy like me then I play with group tuning by making micro adjustments to the rest, tiller, draw weight and draw lenght. But leave that alone for now check for contact, and walkback tune Take a day off from pulling you hair out and come back focused it will improve your shooting. Also on a side note make sure you have a constant grip position it killed me for a while with my mathews coming from a pse. Try shooting 10 arrows 10 feet away from the target with your eyes closed to as your first group and last group every pratice session. Just feel the bow in your hand feel the draw stop reach your anchor feel the trigger squeeze and follow through. Great warm up routine learned that randy ulmer
Last night after much worry I decided to check something. I held the bow upright on a table edge and put a 4" level on the arrow shelf, (my name for the place where arrows use to be set before arrow rest were popular, making sure the bow was level I compared the arrow at rest to it and noticed the arrow was running down hill to the level. I raised the arrow rest up so the arrow was level to the level and went and shot it. groups instantly improved, arrows at longer distances stayed up and quit dropping. I was tired and dark had set in and I had to stop shooting. Do you think that I have found the problem or was the arrow suppose to be running down hill?
I'm not sure I get the reference to the arrow shelf, but if moving your rest up fixed your issue, it is more than likely that the arrow wasn't shooting square out of your bow. To square your bow up, you typically put a level on the string and adjust the bow in a press until the bubble lines up. Once this is done, you put a level on the arrow to make sure it is lined up. Sounds like you might have done that.
the arrow shelf as i call it is the top of the grip where you hold and the rest is attached to the riser just above it. The guy at the proshop never used any type of leveling system he just held the bow strait out and eyeballed it for level.
Keep in mind that the QAD should only be level when at full draw. If you cock it before drawing It should come up to level in the last 1 and a half inch to one inch of your draw.
Hmm. My QAD rests are up most all of the way when they are cocked and only come back a little at the very last bit of full draw. They really don't raise the arrow up any more than when cocked. (just a fraction of an inch)
That fraction can make a difference when tuning. And if the down cord is not adjusted correctly it can cause fletching contact.
