I apologize in advance if this post is a bit long but i have a lot of questions/thoughts on this. I want to use magnus bull heads this year for Turkey hunting. I read/saw that you should use full length arrows and because of the effect the extra length has, you are effectively increasing the flex in the arrow, you should use a heavier spined arrow. I ordered the arrows they recommended with the bull heads that have four 4" feathers on them to help stabilize those massive broad heads and they also recommend ensuring your bow/arrows are in perfect tune before you start. So I took my regular arrows (Axis 340 spine 125 grain field tips) and shot them, paper tuned, walked back tuned and finally broadhead tuned the arrows. Groups of 3 arrows at around 2" some times less. The guys at Jefferson archery did a great job as nothing needed to be adjusted all of those process shows a perfect arrow flight. I then took the Victory arrows that came with the Bull heads and put 125 grain tips on them. First shots were over 8 inchs high and right and grouping at 6" or more. At first I blamed myself so I went back and tried again and again. Same result groups really large and shots are not consistent at all. Thinking it was the arrows (the fetching was terrible) I re-fetched the arrows, same story. I bought 4 full length 300 spine beman arrows, same story I had some 400 spine beman arrows that were full length, same story Now have not even gotten to shoot the bull heads yet this is all with field tips. I have four questions for those shooting Bull heads 1) What arrow are you using and have you had similar results with over spined arrows 2) Should I use them as the bullheads need the stiffer spine (note they still only weigh 125 gr same as my field tips) 3) Does spine really effect arrow flight that much in a compound bow? 4) Should I mess with my setup and tune the over spined arrows just like I did for my other arrows? if so how? I thought those processes are ensuring rest alignment with the string ie arrow is being pushed perfectly straight out of the bow so spine should not change that aspect, or should I get some 340 spined arrows that are full length and use those? Clem
Lookup broad head tuning and I would use the 300 spine. Your rest needs to go down first of all. Broad head tuning should be effective but a bare shaft will really fine tune the setup Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I believe Magnus recommends tuning with the Bullhead arrows. Your POI will most likely be different from your deer arrows. I'm working on getting mine tuned as well. I bought the 300 spine arrows since I shoot around 60lbs. I used the modified French tuning method to tune my bow with the Bullhead arrows and field points. I haven't gotten a chance to shoot the arrows with the Bullheads but with field points they are grouping well out to 20 yards. I haven't gotten a chance to try further than that. This was my first shot at 10 yards while French tuning. This was my group at 15 yards. Retune with the Bullhead arrows. It might not take much adjustment. I have a pillow ready to fling some Bullheads at hopefully this weekend.
This pretty much describes my problem... now how do I fix this, this is nock left. Now as I'm short of time Season starts Monday and this is the first time I moving my rest. From my logic my rest has to move to the left, is that correct. My thoughts on why my previous tuning has not shown any problems is the Axis arrows have small fletching and so are more likely to fly like a bare shaft where these Magnus bull head shafts have all these feathers behind them and so they correct quicker than regular fletched arrows.
IF he bow is tuned properly to begin with ,ie. BH, BS, paper etc, You should not need any further tuning to shoot the Victory arrows and Bullheads. My Bullheads shoot the exact same as my field points or regular bh's at 20yds. POI is about 1" low at 30yd In other words... go back to the beginning. Something was off initially IMO, tuning with the Bullhead setup likely isn't fixing the underlying problem. Again just my .02
That is me in that video. I have not found a bow yet that I could not tune to shoot Bullheads. Here is what you need to do. 1) Buy the Bullhead 300 spine arrows ... which is sounds like you did. 2) Tune your bow to the Bullhead arrow with a 125 grain field tip. It sounds like you tuned the bow to your lighter and shorter deer arrows. That will not work in most cases. You need to tune to the Bullhead arrow. 3) Once you dial in your bow for the field tips, using the same Bullhead arrow throw on a 125 gr fixed blade broadhead like you would shoot for deer and dial the bow in a little further. 4) Again, using the Bullhead arrow, thread on a 125 gr Bullhead and shoot into a free hanging pillow at 10 yards. You should find if your bow is tuned and your shooting form is good that the Bullhead impact matches or very closely matches your impact of your previous shots with a deer broadhead. If you need to bring the Bullhead in a little to match the deer head impact make very very tiny adjustments to the rest. I mean like 1/2 the width of the line marker on your rest. Very very tiny adjustments in the rest can move the Bullhead quite a bit and have a negligible effect on your deer broadhead flight. 5) Step back to 20 yards and do it again, further refining the point of impact if needed. 6) If all of that fails then turn your bow down a fuzz in weight. Some guys struggle to get Bullheads to fly at 70#, the reason is that more weight, the faster the flight, thus the more critical the tune and shooting form become. You don't need 70# to kill birds. I take their heads off down at 55#. Do those steps and you should be good to go. If you have any questions, ask me. I am always willing to help.
Like Tacklebox said, I have my bow tuned to my regular deer hunting arrows but they bull head arrows still fly the same for me. Sounds like I would make sure the initial tune is correct.
Thanks Tacklebox this what I went out to do, I learn't a lot being a new bow hunter I was a bit scared to move the rest. This has given me motivation to tinker around a bit. Now I'm grouping my bareshafts and Bullhead arrows at 20 yards. I think I need to do some more work as my bare shafts aren't perfectly aligned with my fletched ones. But after a lot of shooting for the last hour I might let my arms rest before trying some more or my form will slip. Funny in my post I said nock left it was actually nock right and I was moving my rest left and the problem got worse. It took a while to figure out what I was doing wrong, guess my head was still thinking about the shot instead of left and rights. I feel a lot better about what I'm doing now and my ability to adjust my own rig. Clem
Sounds like you are getting there. BS can be finicky and will show even the smallest form Issues. If you can get both shafts and both FP and BHs grouping together don't get overly concerned with any slight angles on the bare shafts as it's likely a small form issue on release. Keep up the good work you'll get there
Ok an update with my first attempts at tuning. I spent too many hours when I was meant to be in the office out on my range (thankfully the office and the range are at the house) and got what I thought was a good tune. The only thing I did not try was paper tuning as I hadn't made a stand. My bare shafts and fletched arrows were grouping at 30 yards. My broad heads and field points were grouping at 30 yards. I walked back tuned and I was on the string from 5 - 40 yards I thought I was gold, got an old arrow and put it through the top of the pillow and pushed it into the bail that is by arrow backstop for my target and screwed on a bullhead and walked back to 20 yards.. I drew and shot and missed by 2 feet, arrow buried into a bail of hay next to the pillow and snapped a blade. I had some choice words and walked back to the office to lick my wounds. I then went a built a target stand that would hang my bag, hang a pillow and but a paper tuning bracket in front of it, sort of an all in one stand. With the plan to paper tune my bow to see if I could see what was going on with the arrow flight. This morning I went out and stood at 5 yards and shot, at least I hit the pillow, I was about 1" off target left. Stepped back to 10 yards and shot 5" left. I adjust my rest left 1/64" and shot again, 1" left. Backed up to 15 yards, shot, 1" left. Backup up to 20 yards, shot, 1" left. So this was an interesting way to tune my bow, since the bull heads are so susceptible to really small tuning errors walk back tuning with them highlights every small problem... just don't use a string for a line or you will cut it like a turkeys neck. For anyone who has tried a bullhead and can't get them to fly right you might want to try this sort of tuning. I call it broad head walk back tuning, it combines the best of both methods, when done with a bullhead it is real obvious what is going on with your arrow. Clem
When I bought the bow about 5 weeks ago they paper tuned it with me, it was shooting bullet holes. Yet when I tried to shoot just the fletched bull head Victory arrows I could not get them to fly and the same with the bull heads on there so something was not right. I don't understand but people tell me paper tuning is not the 100% answer. Clem
yoke tuned or just moving the rest? Just because they get you bullet holes doesn't mean it was tuned properly.
Just the Rest, from my understanding Yoke tuning is leaning the cam to put the string behind rest (throughout the release cycle). Rest tuning is moving the rest behind the string. Now I have to take the pro shops word on this one as he was standing behind me when we were shooting it but he said everything look OK as far as the string tracking of the cam as I drew the bow. As I don't have a press I was not going to start mucking around with that one. The amount of adjustment I made to the rest was so small it may have been less than a 1/64" but it made a huge difference, so my guess is everything else I have been shooting is not as sensitive as those damn huge broad heads. Clem
Essentially you are correct. I feel you would be better off (IMO) to find a shop that would be willing to yoke tune your bow after setting center shot. In the end, I feel it is way more effective.
By moving the rest, you just match it to the string setting. But your center shot could be way off, which would give you the mixed results you are seeing with different broadheads.
I would agree but the original setting (as in what I did with the shop guys) is not that far off what I have now. I'm just about to go outside and confirm what I shot yesterday (as in BS, BH and WB) all still hold true even with this minute adjustment that I made this morning to my rest. If those tuning methods don't indicate any problems and the bull heads are flying ture, then I'm happy to call it tuned. I probably will get my shop to take a look at what I've done to be sure that I have not messed up anything One thing I did gather from all of this is an appreciation for the finer points of bow tuning, I love understanding what is going on and have an understanding of the forces/effects involved. Clem
