While I do agree dual cams are significantly harder to time and adds in extra work. Cam lean can easily be adjusted for to a pretty accurate point. We're talking hunting bows here not Olympic competition....if there is 1 or 2* of lean that deer and your grouping ain't going to notice. But it is effective and I know it because my bow is shooting nice little groups and my arrows are straight impacting and not tail happy anymore. Big thanks to 60x Custom strings and draves!
*please note I'm not saying this to say you're wrong in the overall complete effectiveness of proper tools and techniques* But tell me when is shooting a bare shaft going to matter to an average bow hunter. I can replace strings, serve a peep and adjust can timing and lean all with the "draves method" + a decent Google article on how to adjust cam lean. Ive saved around $150. I can shoot sub three inch groups at up to 35 - 40 yards and touching groups at half that. I'd believe that's effective enough for our average bow hunter that will never fling bare shafts at anything.
Having the ability to shoot bareshafts sure does make broadhead tuning easier as well as no worries about what head will fly like field point search. It also makes spine much more forgiving. But you are correct,to kill deer, it isn't "necessary " just makes things a heck of alot easier and even to some degree, more fun.
I'm a big proponent of setting the rest to true centershot via the "modified" french tune method. Very simple yet effective way to find true center.
As far as putting something in the,cam to hold the bow,don't do it. It's something we did years,ago when cams and limbs were much beafier than they are and weren't as preloaded as systems are now. You could very easily damage a $150 set of cams and/or a $250 set of limbs.
Bareshaft tuning is not so you can shoot an animal with a bareshaft. But if you can shoot a bareshaft with your fletched then it is coming off your bow completely straight and true. And if the arrow is coming off completely true 1. You will get better penetration and 2. It will make your broadhead tuning very easy. Strip the fletchings off your arrow and shoot at 20 yards. Then come back and tell me if you think it's perfectly tuned. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
My advice would be to get all your upgrades purchased first and then go to a reputable pro shop to have everything installed and tuned at the same time. I know it's hard but patience is the key. As far as a new arrow rest goes I just got a Schaffer Opposition Lite arrow rest and IMHO it's really fool proof. I bought it from John Schaffer himself at his shop in Burnsville, Minnesota. After he explained the Oppositions advantages I was totally convinced. Check out his YouTube vids. Just my $.02.
But one issue with bareshaft shooting is that it is as much a testament to the shooters abilities and form as it is to tune.
This a good discussion, do any of you have a link to a how to on bow tuning then? Such as how to measure and adjust cam lean etc, I am still considering doing this with the appropriate equipment.
Update: (not that anybody cares haha) So I got a ste of strings and cables and I found an axt titanium recon rest on eBay. Listening to a lot of yalls advice I did not use the Allen wrench through the cam technique. I did a lot of research on the bow presses that folks have made as well as draw boards. I used a turnbuckle and strap and built limb attachments to press the bow. I got the strings and cables on successfully and put it on my draw board. The timing was off a little, so back to the press. All was going well until the limb bracket I built shifted and scratched the hell out of one of the limbs. I decided to hang it up for the night. The following morning, I made a trip to my local cabelas and picked up their bow scale and a bow master press, to avoid scratches. Back to work on it, I got the cams synced as close to perfect as I believe they could be, watching the scale I saw the bow let off from 74.something down to 14.something. Seeing that the let off was perfect I kept drawing until the draw stop hit. (One or two more clicks) and I noticed the weight increase significantly, from fighting with the cable stops. So I adjusted the draw stop perfectly. So being excited as I could be about all this progress, I put in my peep, and served it, the cord for the rest and the area for the sting stop in. Then..... I noticed some dust or something on the limb, I tried to wipe it and being absolutely horrified, I found a crack in the limb. I assume when the stupid press I built shifted it splintered the edge of the limb. It's pretty small but I will be replacing it. I used painters tape to secure the string and cables to the cams and completely broke down the bow. I will be ordering a new set of limbs from Barnsdale in a couple of weeks to replace the older Barnsdale limbs that I ruined learning the hard way. It's an expensive lesson to learn, but the positive is the knowledge I have gained from breaking the bow down completely. The bowmaster press is incredible for the, and I wish I would've purchased it in the first place. I'll post a few pics just for knowledge purposes when the guy like me is researching to work on his own bow. Thanks for the input previous to this post
Here's the photos. One is the press I made(but shouldn't have) one of the rest, strings, bowmaster press and scale, one of the damage to the limb and one of the riser. Like I said I'm posting these for the folks doing research. I don't think experienced people are going to care much for them.
