Hey maybe one of you corporate guys can ask the headquarters to get some of these out to PA dealers so we can shoot them...just sayin I've got a stack of money burnin a hole in my pocket and if my dealer don't soon get one after being promised he'd have them already I might just have to pick up a Maxxis
Don't you do that Doug. I'll likely be shooting a Destroyer at the 3rd Annual NE GTG and you know you want a shot at ole Rob.
Don't you do that Doug. I'll likely be shooting a Destroyer at the 3rd Annual NE GTG and you know you want a shot at ole Rob. I almost had you with the Admiral. Damn Coyote's
Truck is packed with everything I need to put a final tune on this thing tonight guys. Plans are to get it to my DL, get a decent hole in paper, bareshaft tune it, creep tune it, sight in for broadheads, and put it through the chrono. I managed to borrow a chrono and also dug up a 315gr arrow. I won't be able to chrono it with the limbs bottomed out (don't have a 350gr arrow), but I will chrono it at a measured 5 grains per pound @ 63lbs, and again at 62lbs with my 490gr hunting arrows. I'll also be shooting it at a measured 30" draw length too (put the draw board and scale in the truck), so you will have specs at 5gpp @ 30".........pretty close to IBO specs. Should be interesting..........
Well I think I was a bit optimistic with thinking I'd get the bow completely setup and tuned last night. I did get a good ways there, but did not have time to bareshaft tune, or sight in past 20 yards. I do have some detailed thoughts to share on my first impression beyond the 10 yards in my basement though. - With the bow backed down to 62lbs (72lb is max), at a measured 30" AMO DL, and with a fully loaded string.............I got 330fps with a 315 grain arrow. I bet it will be faster when I get a final tune on cam rotation, and if I can find an arrow that I can put through at 5gpp, with the limbs bottomed out. This number was taken before I creep tuned or starting timing the cams. - You can creep tune the bow like a dual cam. I love this. It has characteristics of a dually, and characteristics of a binary. It's like the best of both IMHO, and from what I've seen so far is (IMHO) the best cam design on the market. I've said this before.........I really hope we see a mini version of these cams on a 40"+ target bow like the Brigadier. - If you get one of these, please take the draw/cable stops out of the cam and put locktite on them and reinstall when adjusting for your DL. Mine were a bit loose when I got the bow. I wonder if this is causing the buzz some guys are claiming to have felt on these? Mine has no buzz, didn't notice any before but this could be causing this? - The draw cycle is smooth, it really ramps up quickly and has a linear draw curve. Over the next few weeks I'll do a draw curve chart compared to my Allegiance on smooth mods. I'd say it ramps up faster than my Ally, but has more valley. - Like most other bows, if you back the limbs down to lower poundage, you will get more DL. With mine backed down 10lbs, the bow was drawing about a 1/2" long. - The bow is quiet. Not Admiral or General quiet, but definitely Tribute/Allegiance quiet. Not sure if I've seen another bow this fast that was this quiet. - The bow has a LOT of valley to it and transitions to the valley very smooth. Because I had the bow backed out to 62lbs, my draw was only in the #4 mod holes (supposed to be 29.5" @ #4), and the bow measured exactly 30" AMO. It was maybe a hair long before I backed it out, but very close. Also, it would be easy to think the bow draws long out of the box, but once I got it on the draw board witha scale, I realized that because there is such a nice valley, it's easy to overdraw the valley a bit and think it's longer than it really is. I guess I'm used to much more aggressive feeling valleys that tear your arm off if you blink. Because the valley on this bow is so forgiving, and because you can creep tune these like a dual cam, I would HIGHLY recommend for anyone to put 100-200 shots on the bow to settle the cables/string, get it on a draw board to time the cams (not necessary but will give a good baseline), and then put a full creep tune on the bow. Because of that long valley, I think it will be easy to be a bit inconsistent with shooting from the front/middle/back of the valley and a creep tune on the cams will eliminate this. I don't think this will make the difference between hitting or not hitting a barn, but it will make a bit of difference for those of you who want to wring every inch of forgiveness out of these. Before I started creep tuning mine last night, if I pulled hard into the stops at 20 yards, I would go about 1" high. Anywhere else in the valley was dead nuts. That's really good, most dual cams are worse than this before creep tuning, but you can clean that little bit up if your willing to put the time in. I did not do a bareshaft tune last night, I was running low on time. I was able to shoot through paper at around 8 yards and got a bullet hole with the rest at 13/16" from the riser, with the nock completely level @ 90 degrees. It walk back tuned perfectly there from 10 to 28ish yards. Eyeballing things, it's dead nuts down the pipe for centershot. What's nice is that if you set this up with an Octane TripWire rest, the rest comes with the laser engraved markings so that the perfect centershot is already marked on the rest. After getting things tuned this far, I went back to try and put one through the chrono with my 487 grain GT Pro Hunters..........and I realized that I left the dang thing on the entire time I was tuning. It had an error code for battery, and gave me 3 incosistent readings of 245, 267, and 287. According to everything I've seen, 287 is pretty close to what I would expect out of this arrow and bow setup, but I don't think you can count on that number........when a chrono is running out of juice it will throw some pretty wacky numbers out. I'll get more info soon guys. I've got it sighted in for 20 yards, and need to finish at 30, 40, and 50 yards with Rage broadheads just so I can get in the woods with it on Saturday. After this weekend, I'll be trying to get a bareshaft tune on it, some more chrono numbers, and get it dialed in to shoot some 100gr Grizztricks that should be at my house tonight. For those unfamiliar with the term "Creep Tuning", I'll include below a quote from NFAA Professional Archer George Ryals, also known as GRIV. Rather than re-write a perfectly written article, I'll just quote him......:D
Just got home. I've spent most the day in at the local shop. They got their D350 and we've been shooting it out to 60 yards. Took time set this one at 28" draw and buried the poundage which was 62#. Draws extremely nice at the weight I am used to shooting and at my draw length. The shop owner had it setup with a huge peep, and a huge kisser button, and it still shot my 375 grain CX Aramids through the Chrono at 295fps. After shooting at distance I am even more convinced this Bow will be what I primarily use hunting. We shot a variety of arrows through it and seemed very tolerant of spine. I don't think I seen even one arrow kick even a little bit. Dan
Matt, how hard was it to shoot out of the front of the valley? I tried creep tuning my 101st, but I couldn't shoot out of the front of the valley with the bow ripping my arm out of socket. The draw stops on the destroyer contact the cables not the limb face, correct?
Matt - LOTS more valley on this bow than an Airborne. It's not such a sloppy valley that your gonna shoot from the front of the valley just standing there and shooting, but when your shooting in a hunting situation and have bad footing, deer under you, etc.......it's easy to do with any bow. I've shot myself on video enough times, and seen others on video enough times, to know that shooting from slightly different places in the valley is easy to get sloppy with. This bow has a bit of valley so it's comfortable and won't rip your arm off, but you also want to tune it to take advantage of that nice valley from any spot you may execute from. JMHO. Camo sideplates and a few other goodies showed up tonight. Still got to sight her in for 30, 40, and 50 yards tomorrow, but she's dressed to kill right now..............
Very nice! How was the pressing of the bow? Anything special need done other than using the appropriate press?
Matt, I pressed it in a X press. It pressed fine. Make sure you get the inside pressing bars far down the limbs just barely off the riser, and the outside bars just a hair off the cams. Other than this you will be fine. According to the guys at Corporate, you can also press using an EZ style press as well. You can apparently put the fingers on top of the pillow blocks, just be careful and make sure to leave clearance for everything. With that said guys, if you don't have one of these two presses, I'd be bringing these to a dealer and let them do the pressing for you. It's not worth messing things up, and if something goes wrong at the dealers.......then they can easily help you fix the problem.
One of the main hesitations I have buying this bow. I want to work on my own equipment as much as possible. My closest pro shop isn't what I would necessarily call trust worthy, and he has an older Apple press. I suppose I could bite the bullet and buy a good press. Matt, I thought you bought an EZ Press?
The press of choice is the X Press. I think Matt just wanted to make sure on this bow, being that it was the first time messing with the binary overdrive. PS. I know a "shop" that recently bought an X Press.
I know, but it's a bit of a drive and don't want to have to call him up at the spur of the moment...he's not a true shop...I don't want to intrude
Hello all, new here but have a few ?? on 340 accssories. First I feel lucky brought my 340 home last Friday before some of you staff guys but I want to thank you for your and others previous posts they convinced me to hold out on a Adm. or Iceman and man I'm gald I did. I now own what I feel is the very best hunting bow made to date. Without rehashing all the positives that have been posted I'll just say this it's all that and then some...for all the naysayers go shoot it]. Rick you mentioned first blood, sorry I stuck a doe with it Wed. afternoon, you also said you had the bantamweight stud installed but the pics look like a quiver riser is attached. I'm looking for a quiver that will keep my 29" oal arrows inside the cams. My old BT 2pc from the Mighty Mite won'd do it I hope the bantam or the Octane 2pc will. This is one sweet bow, not really needed but with the LS S-coil and ultras on it is fast,dead in the hand and deadly quiet.
