Limb driven Hamskea Trinity.

Discussion in 'Equipment Reviews' started by Mod-it, Sep 14, 2021.

  1. Mod-it

    Mod-it Die Hard Bowhunter

    Mar 28, 2019
    Likes Received:
    Dislikes Received:
    When I bought my new Bowtech Solution I talked myself into putting a Hamskea Trinity on it. I say talked myself into it because I was skeptical about the longer cord of a cable driven as well as didn't like that I couldn't lock it into the up position with an arrow nocked like my cable driven QAD on my old bow. I mainly archery hunt elk and that means walking around in timber and brush a lot and not just sitting in a tree or blind. But a ton of people were really raving about them, how well they work and how "bullet proof" they are so I went with it.

    Now that I have 300-400 hundred shots through it I'm just not impressed. I've found it to be a struggle to get vane clearance. It has to be the launcher arm bouncing I think, there shouldn't be any way that it isn't fully down by the time the fletchings go by. I have to have the spring stretched pretty tight, definitely more than the 1/8" they recommend, as I believe this minimizes launcher bounce and gives me clean fletching passes. I also find having it tighter than they recommend quiets the shot much better, there is definitely a buzz/vibration noise if the cable is set at their spec. This weekend I was shooting at elk camp and noticed the shot noise was back. I found that the cable tension had slid a bit, another thing that happens and is frustrating. I tightened it again and it made enough difference in shot noise that my elk hunting partner noticed and commented on it.

    I do have the cord attached right by my lower axle where Hamskea recommends for a Bowtech, but I may play with moving it higher up the limb. I've read that some Techs are setting them up so that they only come up fully in the last inch of draw, just like a cable driven, and the cable just barely goes slack. This seems much more forgiving to me. I can't remember who said it, but "a rest only needs to support the arrow for just as long as is necessary".

    I've had to get used to keeping a finger on the arrow if I want to move around with an arrow nocked but that's not a real big deal, I just have to get used to doing that again. Used to always have to do that in the days of prong rests. I have put moleskin all over the shelf so the arrow doesn't make a bunch of racket.

    This weekend at elk camp I noticed that the activation cable is starting to fray already right where the adjustment metal bracket and o-ring are located for setting the cable tension. It is frayed enough to make me pretty nervous so now I'm going to switch that out so it doesn't cost me an opportunity while elk hunting. Far from "bullet proof" IMO, I've never worn out a cable on a cable driven rest in thousands of shots. This thing looks like crap after 300-400 shots. Has to be because the metal bracket/o-ring slips quite frequently.
    My brother-in-law put one on his new bow this year. He got his several months before I did and has already had to replace his cable. He is so unimpressed with his that he's going back to a cable driven rest.

    I've read that replacing the cable and going to some sort of knot system rather than using the metal bracket and o-ring is a good idea, so I'll likely mess with that too after the season is over.

    I'm really struggling to see what all the hype is about.

Share This Page