I'm with you guys on youth bows and heavy limbs but I thought we were more talking about a "regular" top 3-4 bow from one of the top 5 manufacturers. A standard adult customer bow like most use here on the forums.
I see what your saying Bruce, I merely offering option "x" for lack of a better term. But, yes I would agree with you. Most bows that are over or under poundage would not be in spec in relationship to ATA or BH.
OK, I get what everyone is saying. Find the sweet spot on the bow and leave it there. It's performance will be optimal there. I know years ago, a lot of companies were building draw length specific cams or modules for cams. This trend seems to be ending as most bows have went back to a rotating module again. My understanding of the draw specific cams, from a performance stand point is that you can build a cam that utilizes the cam better if its draw length specific, rather than say "short stopping" a cam to get a shorter DL. So, what happens here? If I had to guess, most of the rotating mod bows are designed for a 29" DL. Any gains above that DL are just icing on the cake. With that said, wouldn't some of the energy in the cam be wasted at shorter DL if the cam position was left alone?
I would say for marketing purposes that bows are designed around 30". You know,speed sells. Get the most from 30" and market THAT. I like draw specific cams just for the reasons you stated but imo, if we must have rotating modules or different modules, what Hoyt is doing is the way to go. 4 different base cams that are adjustable with modules. Best of both worlds if you will. Plus they give you the option on target models of draw specific. Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
I wouldn't necessarily say an adjustable mod cam is any more less efficient at shorter DL's than a fixed DL cam. Both of them are "short stopping" as you say from their advertised 30" length. You will see a reduction in performance, hence the 10fps you lose per 1" you drop from 30". A DL of 27" is going to be 27" regardless. I would say, however, that tuning specs are more precise and available for a 27" fixed cam vs a 27" adjusted cam. Some fine tuning is required of adjustable module bows.
In my experience,in general a rotating mod looses more speed at shorter draw lengths than does a specific draw cam. Of course there are exceptions to every rule.
So would this be a window of opportunity to tweak the cam timing to regain some of that lost speed? I assume there is a breaking point here where the bow will be out of whack if you'd go too far. I'm also guessing that the gain would be minimal at best.
Not imo. I always put forgiveness ahead of speed. I here people all the time talk about tweaking for speed and I often wonder at what cost did they get that -10 fps. Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
I completely agree with you. My setups are always forgiveness and accuracy first. I do a lot of small things that I think add up to a more forgiving setup. Maybe I need to re-word this. Stop me if I'm getting "stupid" here. What about tweaking the cam timing to get the most efficiency out of the system? For example, getting the cams timed so that the valley feels better and you find a "sweet spot". My thoughts are, if you can find a little better efficiency in the cams, the bow should tune better, be quieter and feel better in general. Now, you probably won't gain much in terms of speed, but any up in the efficiency can't be a bad thing.
That's what I was talking about earlier with creep tuning. Usually the cam feels best when your done but not always. Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
Thanks to all who chimed in, especially tfox, bruce, backcountry. Always a pleasure reading what you have to say. tfox, creep tuning is something I really need to learn how to do properly and incorporate more into my setups. Any tips or tricks you could share?
Use a piece of tape for your horizontal line. Concentrate just on the vertical impact. With most cam systems today you can just shoot hard into the wall or soft into the wall. Not much valley to speak of but there can be a big impact difference between the two. Make half twist adjustments until you hit the tape from the front of the wall and back. Oh, and only count good shots. Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
Just got my strings and cables installed last night and will start tuning this weekend. I already noticed both cams are a bit out of whack timing wise. The cool thing with these overdrive binaries is that you can tweak one cam more independently than you used to with the old binaries thanks to the split buss's. I'm going to put a lot of effort into creep tuning this bow. I never did it in the past, but I can see what the advantages are, especially for a hunting bow. Thanks everyone for the great insight. Hopefully I'll have some pics of the shiny new rig up over the weekend.
Your topic, even though it would seem to need in depth discussion can easily be answered quickly: to obtain the most "optimal" tuning for your cam set-up (regardless of single, binary, dual, cam and a half) set the timing at full draw. You see, due to variences in the obvious, limbs, string and cables, axles, cam bearings, etc... slight differences can occur while at brace. However, these differences will be negated and truly "timed,tuned,etc... if done at full draw. I shoot primarily Mathews and can tell you that even though they have "timing windows" on the newer models, I use a drawboard and set the timing at full draw. I want the cam to be at optimal rotation and holding spot for best performance. Does this mean the cable may not pass thru the timing window exactly as described by Mathews "ABSOLUTELY"! But once timing and tuning are set at full draw, you have the "optimal" settings achieved. Guess my explanation was more in depth than the answer! LOL!!
Just be because the timing is set, it doesn't mean you are at optimal. You can still shoot high if you are hard into the wall or low if soft against the wall. Creep tuning will set the timing so that hard into the wall and soft into the wall both hit the middle. Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
