No. I used one for years and about ...........ah.......3 years ago I took it off. I'll admit it was different and a bit of an adjustment, but it had zero effect on my shooting. If my peep sight is lined up with my sight housing, I let 'er fly.
I use a rubber nock cushion, it's not as heavy as an actual kisser and I still get that reference. It's not that I really need it, it's just another "check."
Same thing for me... I use the little rubber cushion that comes on Bowtech strings. It's much smaller and less obtrusive, definitely not a requirement... But I like the 3 points of "contact" meaning... my eye, my nose on the string, and the cushion in the corner of my mouth.
I was using one when i first started out but once I got new strings for my bow, I left it off. As long as you have a consistent anchor point, you don't really need it. But I do emphasize "consistent."
I also am using a kisser and with my thumb locked under my ear, the kisser in the corner of my mouth and the string at the tip of my nose... groups have been very tight. My neighbor this afternoon watched me shoot at 20 yards and said that my groups were a lot tighter than his and he as been bow hunting for years.
I use it and will likely continue to use it. Do you need it? Nope. Will a kisser (or something similar) help you be a more consistent shooter? Perhaps.
No you don't have to have a kisser button. Most people use one because they help people be more consistent. They allow a person to use the same anchor point, thus increasing accuracy. One of the biggest things I see beginners doing is not having the same anchor point on every shot. I would recommend using one.
glad i read this im lining my peep up with my pins instead of the housing.but im shooting good at 20 and 30 yards so should i re site?
Don’t try to keep the inner ring of your peep sight in focus. Concentrate on being able to see all of the round housing on your front sight. Hopefully you have a round front sight housing. I find that with my 33 inch axle to axle bow, my “comfortable” head position does not allow seeing the entire front sight ring (mine is painted white). Therefore, I must break one of the “Conventional Wisdoms of Accuracy” and move my shooting eye closer to the peep. In the old days, with a longer bow, the angle of the drawn string was not as great as now and my nocking point of the corner of the mouth allowed close access to the rear sight. In fact my anchor point was forcibly moved further up my face because my low anchor produced a high point of impact (beyond adjusting the front sight assembly…I tried three different sight manufacturers on this rig). That’s life with machines. I have also adopted a target pistol shooters’ sight picture in that the bead of my pin does not cover the spot. The bead, in my case, is next to (right of) the spot. I have found this to be much more accurate at longer ranges as the bead obscures too much of the spot for consistent accuracy. For all intents, my arrow now lands next to the bead. Ultimately, if I can see ALL of my front sight (including the level), I wind up with a repeatable sight picture. I was OK untill I began practicing at 40 yards and beyond. That's when everything (sight alignment and picture) became much more critical. Then all you have to do is perfect your anchor, grip and release.
