Got the new G3 bow out to shoot it a bit and had one pin zero'ed in at 20 but I noticed the other day that these broadheads fly consistently right of where my field points do. They don't drop, just fly right and always hit the same spot from each yardage but the right movement or deviation is greater with greater yardage from the target. They shoot off to the right at a rate of about 6" per 15 yards. Hit with my field tips at ten yards, off about 3" at 15 and out at 30+ yards they are off a good 6". I've never had this happen before, what's goin on with it? Any ideas? Maybe the drop away rest? Nature of these broadheads? I changed from a whisker biscuit to the drop away on this new rig so the dropaway is a departure from what I'm used to and I never liked drop away rests in the past...but maybe that's an easy catch for the blame. What course of action should I take? I have some 100 grain (same weight) expandables...should I try those on the new arrows and see if it still shoots right? The bow shop owners wife said these broadheads shot high and to the right on her setup so a very similar problem with mine. I love these broadheads but I won't hunt with something that is fairly unpredictable on a horizontal plane at increasing yardages.
I suspected as much, been so long since I set a new bow up and adjusted everything I couldn't recall the process. The last bow I bought new (ten years ago) the bowshop guy at a different shop...helped me tune it in while I was there and this guy just threw the parts on it and took the check. I've had bows shoot to the left but not to the right. After the bowshop gal talking about the same problem I wonderd if it was just the nature of the heads. I need to fix the BH's so they line up with the fletchings but hadn't done it yet. Okay so bear with me, start with the rest and move it sideways in the direction I want the broadhead to go, is that correct? so I need to start by adjusting the rest to the left? Or am I recollecting completely wrong?
If your rest is set up correctly than I wouldnt mess with it, its suppose to be striaght with your nocking point. An easy fix would be tuning the sight so that your broadheads fly where you want them to. Adjust your sight to the the right accordingly till the broadheads are dialed in.
Paper tune the bow first with field points to ensure your launching correctly to begin with. Then sight in bow to 30-50, whatever your comfortable shooting. If you're shooting a fixed blade, you may have to get a little helical on your fletchings as well. if you're shooting expandable, you should get very similar results to a field point. I wouldn't compensate for an error in setup with another error(moving sights/rest) if you do, you'll never know what distance are what, and really have a tough time practicing.... any competent bow shop should be able to walk you through the process, if they try to sell you stuff.... maybe they don't know what they are talking about..... I wouldn't trust anyone who told me their setup shot high and right.... wouldn't you want your setup to be dead on without having to guess?
A quick bow setup how-to... - HuntingNet.com Forums Don't stop at walk back - HuntingNet.com Forums old school old site. But Tfox Is about as good as it gets, and these threads have priceless info. good luck
Yes I would want it to be dead on without having to guess, she went back to shooting expandables and didn't have any more problems. I've never had broadheads "fly" off on the horizontal plane from some model flaw, they were always correctable. I assumed she or her husband simply couldn't tune it out but I think I was giving them the benefit of the doubt. They left a lot to be desired in setup, not nearly as proficient as my last bowshop guy. I think it's in the rest as my arrow spines are correct, knock point is correct and the problem increases with distance. I think the problem is that he did NOT set up the rest correctly, I think he eyeballed it from what I saw while at the shop. Yes I could adjust my sight pin to compensate and shoot one range but I'll be screwed if I guess a yardage off by a little bit and be off left to right. I think that's a poor solution. I think it's safe to say this bowshop isn'tgoing to be able to walk me through correction if the wife went to expandables for the same reason. I'll get it worked out eventually, if not I'll take it to another bowshop but I hate to take it to one I didn't buy a bow from to get it worked out. I've relied on my bowshop guy so long that I got lazy and forgot a lot of stuff that I figured out and learned when I was younger. I have the tools to align the rest with the knock and level but will have to dig them out. I'll try to adjust it out at the rest first though.
If the fixed blades fly off to the right, typically that means the spine is too weak, or the arrow rest is too far to the right. Since the bowshop wasn't so helpful, I would tune it yourself first. Specifically paper tune it. I like to do it from about 6 feet. That way you know the arrow is coming out of your bow right. After that check your center shot (distance from your arrow to the riser on each side, as if you're looking down on the arrow in your rest). So, now that your arrow is coming out straight, sight in your first pin. After that, shoot a broadhead. If you're still to the right, reduce the draw weight and see what happens. If the arrow starts to come back, then the spine is too low. (sometimes if you're right on the edge, a broadhead, especially fixed, will exaggerate that) Lastly, check it to your field points.
What is your set up, it sounds to me that you are underspined. You need to figure this out as just moving the sight is a band aid fix, and you will not be shooting a tuned bow.
My setup is a 2013 Hoyt Carbon Element 3G set at 77.4 pounds draw weight, 28" draw length with a hoyt fall away rest, a Hoyt 5 pin sight and a Dloop shooting with a hook release. Arrows are Beman 340 Bone collector arrows with 100 grain fixed blade/one piece broadheads. Spine isn't the problem, if you look at the beman shaft selector for my setup it calls for that shaft and even the next higher poundage is the same 340 shaft. Have to get into longer arrows and/or 88-90# setup to get to the 300 shafts.
What are you shooting at 77 pounds? Wooly Mammoth? Dude there are so many possibilities to why your bow is shooting off.... Wish we could help..... I don't think there is something right with the rest, or sight, or combination of both.... paper tune it, and check the arrows to make sure they have the correct fletchings and are have the correct helical or no helical....you may have to experiment..... you could back off the poundage as well Hulk
I bet you're spined well low. Look at .300 spined arrows, or back off the pounds to 70 and see what it looks like then. Maybe even a little lower.
Why would it be spined too low, are their charts that fubar'ed? Oh guys don't give me crap about the draw weight, if I can draw it and am confortable with it there then leave it alone. I've been drawing a 70# bow since I was twenty something. The bowshop guy had it set pulling over 80# and I had him turn it down a little bit already so I'd be comfortable. I wanted the flatter trajectory and arrow speed and I could draw it just fine there so that's where it got left set. There's no reason why a bow can't be a tack driver set at 70+.
At 77# you're underspined. Try going to a 300. I think you'll see immediate results sent from Galaxy S3
Don't just adjust your sights, thats a band aid and wont result in a truly tuned bow Read this from Slick Trick's website... "SPINE IF YOU DON”T GET THEM TOGETHER THEN SPINE MIGHT BE OFF. If broadheads are hitting to the right of fieldpoints you have a WEAK spine. You need a STIFFER spined arrow. The most common error is trying to tune a weak spined arrow. Stop your misery and get some stiffer spined arrows and it’s like magic. Broadheads hitting to the left of fieldpoints (STIFF SPINE) need a weaker spined arrow. SOLUTIONS: Weak spine lower poundage, less juice puts less stress on arrow effectively making it act stiffer. Stiff spine increase poundage, more juice puts more stress on arrow effectivelymaking it act weaker spined. Turn your limb bolts counter clockwise 2-4 turns and see if broadheads and fieldpoints come together. If they do you may leave your bow there, or turn your limb bolts back and get arrows with greater spine. Or, turn your limb bolts clockwise, if that works to bring your broadheads and fieldpoints together leave your bow there or turn your limb bolts back and get weaker spined arrows. If your spine is weak you can go with a lighter broadhead, which will effectively stiffen your spine since you have less weight wiggling. Stiff spine eavier broadhead. You can cut your arrows shorter and effectively stiffen the spine, or lengthen for weaker spine. Most tend to want the arrow as close to the rest as possible so they discount this option however. Spine arrow charts: These are general guesstimates. Reason being there is a great range of cam energy, ranging from a soft wheel cam all the way to your 350fps super hard cams. One guy’s hard cam may not be the same as another guy’s hard cam. The charts have a range of poundage, and different cams have a range of energy. If you have a hot bow you could need a spine stiffer than the chart reads. If borderline or doubtful, try the stiffer arrow. The above gets the great majority tuned, unless your nock point is not traveling straight. If your idler wheel is leaning, use the harness to straighten. Or check to see cams are timed."
