ive got a hand full of questions derived from a weeks worth of shooting .... First off -- my local bowshop dude told me when i bought these victory arrows that (V1) 350 that the cock feather was lined up with the "split" in the arrow and be sure to always reference it the same ? Make sense ? How much of an effect does this have if overlooked ? AND if i put wraps on these should i keep the overlap in the wrap lined up with that also ? Or will this make the arrow " lopsided" ? AND is this a stiff enough spine for me ? He says so "hes a salesman though !". 70# DW 28.5in DL Admiral - ill either be shooting a rage 3-blade this year of the old muzzy 3-blades (125) Oh and the arrow lenth - 29.5in Next... You know the issues you often times have with the fixed blades adding helical gonna make a world of difference ? How do you "dip" your arrows ? some pics maybe ? I know i read it last week somewhere in my owners manual or something but i cant find it now. In regards to bow poundage i beleive i turn my limbs in completely and then turn out one turn to achieve max poundage ? I really hated the way this thing pulled at first and was kinda dissapointed in the purchase , but ive come to love it !!!! so GIVE ME MY POUNDAGE BACK !!!! i thoroghly enjoy shooting this thing now. Finally........... Is it just me or do these binary cams bows torque easier than my old single cam ? less forgiving ? i notice ive gotta bit of a checklist to go through before THWACK ...
Position of the kock feather doesn't matter so much anymore except with something like a whisker biscuit, hostage or some kind of fixed rest. IF you have one of those or something similar then it will. If you have a dropaway rest then kock feather position doesn't matter much unless you are hitting your cables. I don't use wraps but, if I did, I would trim them so there was no overlap. It could affect your spine and balance. I didn't put your numbers in a program but your spine seems reasonable for your setup. When tuning you may find that max poundage may be a bit too much with the 125gr tip but tuning will tell you and you can probably make adjustments to get it to work well. Helical adds more control than offset fletching, which gives you more forgiveness. You shouldn't have any issues with BH's that you need to fix with fletching. BH flight issues should be addressed during the tuning process. Torque issues may be caused by too much DW, to long/short DL, poor form or something else but I don't see how binary cams could be the cause.
the spine vs. the kock feather issue is with the arrow itself. the way he explains it, basically if youd scratch a notch in it before you ever shot it , you should always shoot it in "relation to your string" in the same postiion. just think of it this way - if you had no vanes on your arrow and simply made a mark on it, it may and probobly will shoot differently , if you flipped it 180 ? i dunno ? I saw something last year at the deer and turkey expo that i think ill check out this year. it was a bow grip that bolted up and had a sort of outer-shell that rode on ball bearings so your had could actually twist a bit with no ill effects ? probobly not great for your form to learn to do it wrong all the time ! Anyone know what im talkin about --
-The seam in the arrow is probably a stiff spot in the spine which is why he wants you to index them the same in relation to that. -No idea what the Victory 350 is for deflection (spine) rating so can't comment on that one but you should have about a .340 - .360 spine on that rig. -Overlapping the arrow wrap doesn't change anything, mostly because it's on the back of the shaft. -Helical is always gonna stabilize broadheads better than offset IF you can get it cleared through the rest. -Dipping your arrows requires special laquers, dipping tubes, inhalation of some potent fumes, a mess of laquer dribbled all over the place and just a general PITA. Stick with wraps. -You should get max poundage all the way buckled down. I only back my limbs off about 1/8 turn for max. -Binary cam bows don't torque easier because of the cam but they do have other features that may make them a bit more sensitive to shooter error than a single cam; cam lean, more speed/energy, improper timing... but other things can compensate for that like longer ATA, more mass/weight and better tuning; 6 of one, half a dozen of the other.
On good quality arrows you will have a consistant spine around the shaft and it shouldn't shoot noticeably different with different nock orientations. On arrows with an inconsistant spine around shaft you will get different reactions when rotating the nock.
FYI- Only the Target shafts (HV, fat shafts, etc) have the high spine side alinged with the label. The regular "V series" (V1,V3,V6) do not. Whether this has changed for 2009, IDK.
Thank You! :O) been here for a few weeks actually- when I got my copy of the WKP Full Circle DVD they were talking about this site so I signed up. Just hadn't posted yet. With HNI down again, figured I'd see what was going on here
The "less-forgiving" feel to your new bow compared to your old one is probably due to a lower brace height. Archery is a give-take game and BH is a major issue for bow selection. My guess is your old bow's BH exceeded 7" and your new one is less than 7". Speed rules right now and the hot new bows sacrifice valuable BH to achieve it. However, you will get used to it with lots of practice. Good Luck!!
