Thats why I said talk to mission. Unfortunately there are several dealers that really don't do due diligence. For example almost every bow I have purchased in the last 3 years has been out of spec. That includes Mathews, Elite, Hoyt and Bowtech. Its hard to find a good shop and also by talking to Mission you can verify the dealer is actually talking to them as well. Trust but verify right. Not all bow shops are bad its just sometimes they get busy and don't have the cycles to do things the right way. The right way means to me: checking A2A, brace, draw weight and cam timing if it applies. Another thing I have recently noticed is that they don't serve in peeps any longer either. Sorry didn't mean to turn this into a shop bashing but either way good luck and keep at it. You paid good money for your bow and it should be right.
I'd go with tfox... You may also want to think about your spine stiffness. Fixed heads magnify issues but they don't cause them.
i know i just rambling but i may have found another reason for the tear, the 2nd shop i went to moved my rest up but didnt adjust the string that goes to my drop away. the rest now comes up mid pull instead of at the end. from what im reading this extra tension on the down cable could be affecting the cam.
Rest timing can cause all kinds of issue. But tiller not being equal with limbs bottomed out isn't right. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
true but if the cams are not synced properly the string could be setting off one of the cams at a different angle than the other one and from what im reading some bows come spec with tiller not the same, they are close(like 1/8in) but not the same. im trying to see what is spec for these bows. at my early post was wrong where i listed my tiller was off 1/2in it is actually off 1/4in.
Big difference between a 1/4" and 1/2" . That's why I stated close in regards to tiller.. there can be a small difference. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
yes i agree thats why i rechecked the measurement, the first time i did it i measured the top from the string grub and the bottom from the string. so when i rechecked it at the same distance it was closer.
Man, this sounds like a mess... Most drop aways should come up the last 1-2"of your draw cycle so if it's coming up mid-draw that sounds way to early... You need to get your rest properly timed and centered before doing anything else. This cam seems to tune better 1/8" nock high if you are using a drop away.... I'm not saying you won't need to adjust the tiller but I've never had to adjust tiller with any of the bows I've setup with the AVS cam - though I can honestly say I've probably only setup 3-4 or so of the Blaze - way more Monsters, Chills, ChillR's and Ballistics - I actually own two myself (a MR6 and a CHILLR).... Sure you can't yoke tune with the split self-adjusting yoke design but that's the purpose of it - you're not supposed to have to - you can still adjust cam timing as needed.... I wish you were closer so I could take a look at it... My suggestion would be get your rest (and nock point) properly setup and timed and try and creep tune it... Creep Tuning
I am not the expert here... by any means. But why not take the drop away off completely and get the bow back into proper tune. Then have a rest put back on properly after everything else is known to be correct?
made the drive to crazy horse archery today, well worth the hour long drive. shawn is awesome at what he does and is super friendly. he is what every shop owner should be like. turns out cams were in time and everything was just the rest timing. he got that squared away and when went into the back and paper tuned, got it shooting bullet holes in less than ten minutes. after that we talked about shooting and hunting for another 30 minutes to an hour. he is not one of those shop owners who fixes your problems and shoves you out the door. he is a very knowledgeable person and if any of you live in kentucky you should check out his shop. even if your not looking to buy anything you can always go chat him up, he seems to know a little about everything. he is also very reasonably priced. and thank you J-Daddy for recommending him.
Your welcome man, glad he got you hooked up... Shawn is a good dude, we've been buddies for a lot of years. I don't get to see him much anymore since I'm in South Dakota but every time I'm back home I try to go hang out at the shop with him for a day. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
i think if he was to change his sign outside he could get more business. on the actual building it says hunting and fishing, and before when i have passed it i always thought it was one of those little outlet stores. my parents split up when i was young, one lives in somerset,ky and the other in etown,ky. i must have passed by that place 100+ times traveling to see family and never knew it was an archery shop. but now i do and will continue to do business there.
I wouldn't attempt to tune my bow with cheap Brodhead's or anything other than what I would be using in the field.
My wife's parents live in Somerset and one of her sisters lives there too...I lived there for a few years. E-town is the better choice of the two places, lol. Hey you ever play paintball at Conder's there in E-Town??? That place used to be my home away from home, lol...I also know Trey that owns Big Daddy's Tattoo there in E-Town "and he has a shop in Radcliffe as well". I've got a lot of buddies who live in that area.
ive been to conders a few times back when I was playing paintball, it just got expensive there bc you have to buy their paint. And big daddy's is the only place I go. I had one done in etown before they relocated that store and then my other one was done in Radcliff. never had anything done by trey but I did see him on ink master.
Yeah paintball ain't cheap, paint prices are better now days though... When I first started in the mid 90's paint was crazy high. Yeah it was cool seeing Trey on the Ink Masters show a couple seasons ago. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
