Good chance of it. Spine is also critical as is good arrow flight and proper centershot and no fletching contact. You also need plenty of fletch and helical for stability. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
Here's a clearer picture of the diagram I tried posting last night. (Just click on it to be larger.) View attachment 44181
I don't tune with my mechanicals bc they fly exactly like my field points so im not tuning anything shooting them. and its always nice to tune with fixed blade in case I ever want to switch and I don't have to repeat the process. I took the rest back to where it was originally, I then paper tuned and had to move my rest about 1/16 from where that was to get bullet holes. I did find from paper tuning that I tend to torque to the outside but that was what was comfortable. I found that I have to kind of cant my wrist inward so that the cable slide is farther in towards the bow. if we wasn't having 25 mph outside I would go walk back tune but I think the wind will alter my findings.
Set centershot via the walk back or french tune method. Then check the paper. Don't move the rest to clean the tear up. You may be torquing, have a spine issue or need to adjust the yoke to eliminate idler or cam lean. Once that's done, check broadheads. If they are still off, its most likely a spine issue or junk broadheads. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
hopefully tomorrow the wind will be calm enough to walk back tune, im ready to have this thing tuned so the only thing I have to worry about is shooting.
I would make sure your center shot is perfect. I drove myself crazy one time with arrows that were consistent one direction and come to find out the center shot I thought was on but just a hair out. I know that's a pretty extreme circumstance but they happen. I had to put it on the laser to find it. After that, see the link Phil posted. Then you can make a small adjustment and see if that works. Make one adjustment at a time. As far as lining up the fletchings, that's an old wives tail. I've tuned tons of different arrow / fixed blade combinations and it has never once made a difference. My engineering degree and knowledge of physics is credibility to this as well.
That $69 OMP Lazer I I posted in page one is actually pretty nice set up. I love it. To the OP, I would listen to tfox...he knows his stuff.
the bow shop i took it too said he had a laser but for some reason it wasnt working on mission bows, something about the riser or something. all he did was put it in a little stand and eye ball it. it was close bc i went from there and walk back tuned it it seemed pretty spot on. but when i went to broadhead tune is when i noticed they were not even close, even after some adjustments the broadheads and the field points were was moving at the same interval.
Could this be caused by cam lean? Top cam has a bit but the bottom cam has a lot. I measured with an arrow by ttime it gets to the nock the arrow is an inch and quarter away from the string in the opposite direction of the tiop cam.
I'll have to check that tomorrow, I don't have anyone here that could check while I have it drawn back.
I just thought that distance on the bottom cam seemed a little off, and I can't adjust it bc it has a floating yoke system.
Dont have to. The arrow should be equal to the string on both sides of the cam at rest. You need to put some twists in your cables, or take some out.
Serve the yoke connection to the string so it can be adjusted or replace with a good set of strings and cables. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
Isn't it more of an issue at draw than rest? I tune my bow (and my last one) with some lean in the idler at rest so the cam and idler are straight at draw Sent from my HTC_PN071 using Tapatalk
