Who shoots their bow maxed out? When i bought this Impulse it was set at 59.15# I told the guy I wanted no less than 60 # because after all it is a 60# bow...so he had to put some twist in to get to 60.10#. I know it's splitting hairs...anyways I wanted to shoot it maxed out. Every bow I have ever bought always came in just over by a pouund or 2. Is it normal to have to put a twist or two to bring it up to it's max? and do you shoot yours maxed out?
Nope, my bow`s limbs are for 50-60#`s, but I shoot at 56#`s. My shoulders and forearms don't let me shoot at 60 anymore. With my Halon 32, I don't even see a difference, it shoots bullets!
I shoot @ whatever bottomed out is. I do feel a bow shoots best bottomed out into the limb pocket then it does backed out and held by a limb bolt with limb ends able to vibrate more because they being lifted off the limb pocket. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
so I guess it may be normal for a new bow to come out of the box a tad under max? and have to put a twist in it to get it there?
I would of asked to see the calibratation certificate on the scale AND then I would of asked to see the calibration certficate for the test weights to calibrate his scale!!! And, it had better be tracable to NCIS standard too!
I have a 70lb pound bow, I always used to max it out, but I backed it down aways a few years ago because I didn't have a lot of time to practice with it like I used to. Best thing I every did, seems like it draws and shoots a lot smoother(maybe just in my head). I think when I had it checked it was around 64lb draw, I didn't notice any extra drop with my arrow.
I've never felt the need to shoot it maxed out after I got over the "macho man" syndrome LOL. Currently shooting 63 on 65lb max set up...shot 63 out of a 70lb max set up prior. Days of me shooting 70lb just because I can are gone by choice. Smoother draw means quieter draw and less movement, hold longer and just overall better personally.
Kinda a ridiculous statement. Sorry. If you like a specific draw weight, buy it up front. A bows performance has zero to do with testosterone overload. You might be joking I’m not sure. But if you read up on bow performance blogs, you’ll notice a common denominator, a bow performs its best @ maximum poundage, whatever that poundage may be,,, 50,60,65,70 or 80. 70 pounds is not a lot of draw weight for a lot of people and neither is 80. To each their own. This is not about draw weight but about bottoming limbs out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If shooting 2 pounds from my current bow's max is causing it to under perform to a point of notice I'd say I need to re-evaluate my bow.
Also I said "me personally "...no matter what the poundage max is on my bow...I'm going to be at 63lb because again personally that is when I shoot the best (all things considered). Have a good one.
I normally put custom strings on every new bow I buy. I check with the factory for specific specs, axle, brace and set those as best as possible, then put the rest on before paper tuning. Most bows are +\- 1-2 pounds. I never mess and scale them with factory strings, but I do check specs, and have occasionally shot them with factory strings. My next Hoyt I might keep the factory strings on it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
So 63 pounds with harsh or smoothe cams is your spot. Common sense does dictate a bow will perform better bottomed out. Your limbs are held more securely. I’ve read many an article on vibe and twang concerning this and I thought I read an article on shot consistency. Those are my reasons. I’m not as lucky or particular as you are with a comfy draw weight. But I always wanted a 75 pound bow that they never made. I’ve shot 80, 70,65,60 and 50. I liked them all. Lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
