Thanks everyone...It's still not close to being in time/sync whatever you call. The bow around here are good at putting peeps in...thats about it. To be honest I don't think most of them rarely every replace strings...lol.
Also, my peep didn't wanna stay in the same place no matter how many times I shot it. When I draw it back the string wants to twist over the idler wheel. I looked at it...and something isn't quit right. My new press will be here tomorrow...over the next few days I will get it all fixed. They jacked my buddies Helim up BAD at one shop....so I took his and mine to this shop...they did get his about right...lol. Kinda sad really...I took it back and ask them about it. He said it didn't matter on single cam bows about the timing or the twists.
That is if it has the correct specs to begin with. If the specs are off, you will need to adjust both accordingly. And yes,the term rotation is the correct. sent from my samsung note 2
Originally Posted by bownazi I think that is what I said but how about if I say it this way...set your idler lean then ATA & BH while maintaining the correct cam timing or rotation which are the same thing and either term is correct Other then cam timing/BH/ATA & cam lean......what specs does he need to adjust ??? He has new strings....If he would have over-twist either the string or the cable to get his bow in spec or twist up the yokes to get spec instead of just idler lean....his string and cable would have to be out of spec to begin with and that does not seem to be the case
Poundage is another spec and can be adjusted with preload through the cable. This is more the case of old rigging than new. (This should take care of itself when the others are adjusted correctly)I know you know this but you asked. Seriously, I wasn't questioning you. sent from my samsung note 2
I didn't think that you were questioning me I thought that you misunderstood my wording on the correct way to tune a single cam. The OP just ordered a bow press because he obviously does not have a dealer that knows how to install a set of strings....I am trying to help him and not confuse him...I just figured that if you didn't understand my wording neither would he so I worded the same thing differently hoping to get the facts understood. You are correct about the poundage.....A 70lb single cam can be taken down to 20lbs or up to 85lbs but the specs would not be factory specs
As well as the draw length. I used to do this on purpose with my old Hoyt striker to get a little more poundage and draw length. Didn't like the way it tuned so much afterward though. I never really cared for how a 1 cam worked personally. sent from my samsung note 2
When doing an extreme poundage change using string and or cable....DL can be maintained by changing cam or mod depending on make and model....been doing this for kids since the early 90's...don't have to much anymore with todays bows like the Mission Craze
One thing I did with my daughter was replace the limb bolts with longer ones. That allowed me to back poundage off more than stated and give her a little more draw length in the process. She was cross eye dominant and didnt have a lot of strength in her left arm but had monkey arms. Didn't shoot enough for me to invest in new gear so I made it work. sent from my samsung note 2
I got her fixed...Thanks! Didn't take but a few minutes. Here is a pic of my new press...just don't make fun of the table...lmao. Do I need any idle wheel lean?
As far as the idler lean, the best way to get the lean correct is to bareshaft (yoke) tune. Set centershot by french tune or walk back and then shoot bareshaft and fletched. Twist the yoke until the bareshaft and fletched come together. sent from my samsung note 2
If the bareshaft misses to the right, twist left side yoke 1 turn and untwist right side one turn. (This will keep the a-a the same on both sides) Get everything into spec first. sent from my samsung note 2
Good to hear....nice press..I have not setup any PSE's like yours so I can't help you with specs....usually if you set your bow up with 0 lean and it still looks good at full draw (get someone to look at it from behind you) you are usually good to go... idler lean will slightly change your CS and show up on POI when shooting BH because of lateral nock travel........when you start playing with your cable or yokes recheck your Nock point...it can change quickly depending on cam design
How true that is bownazi, everything may tune out but if your nock point moves most people forget to check it. That is why I like a drawing board or shooting machine to check it all.
One thing that you need to be careful with and the reason that manufactures give a max turns when you do that is ...it is not as much the amount of threads left in the riser but the limb angle to the limb bolt can give you side pressure or leverage on the bolt that over time will batter the threads (pitch) in the aluminum riser...when you go to turn the poundage back up it can weaken or even pull (chew) the threads out of the riser...now if your bow uses limb bolt barrels it will allow the angle to pivot and maintain a straight line to the pocket.....I would break the bow down after a year or two and check for play in the thread pitch
Yea, im a tool maker by trade so this I understand. Not much to worry about on a 30# bow from a girl that only shot it a dozen or so times. That was about the time she became a teenager and found other interests. sent from my samsung note 2
That is one of the most used tools in the shop...can easily use mine 10 to 50 times a day....The DB that I built does not use a board but is vertical...when I say vertical I don't mean the kind that guys show putting the bow's loop on a hook and pulling down on the riser. I lock in and float the riser at eye level....then manually as well as mechanically draw the string downward and stop at any point in the drawcycle that I choose...to look at the cam's and mods I only have to turn my head L & R....also I can spin the bow 360°....use straight edge and laser's to check cam lean at draw or any part of the draw cycle....I can have a bow out of the press into the draw board and back into the press in 30 seconds or less....actual DL should never be a guessing game
