Okay, I'll admit you ask me about whitetail deer's habits, food plots, stand location, aerial manipulation, land manipulation I'll talk your face off....but sadly I'm one of those guys that have always taken my pro-shop's word as gospel on arrow selection and tuning my bow. I know and trust my guy but let's be honest he probably gets every person in the ballpark of a middle of the road set up. No way he can set and build the exact set up that will achieve what every hunter desires. I'm currently shooting a Mission Venture set to #70 pounds and (don't laugh) I believe 28" draw length. I say I think because the last bow I shot for a few years was set different and I just got used to shooting it, but cannot for the life of me remember if the Venture is set at 28 or 29 due to the fact we didn't have to adjust it when I test shot it (fit like a glove draw length wise). *feel like a complete tool right now...will confirm tonight when I get home but I'm 90% sure it's 28 inches. -70lb draw weight -28in draw length -I shoot 27 1/2 inch arrows off a drop away rest -100grain broadheads -Will be switching from blazers to Quickfletch Quickspins this coming season (slightly more weight) Currently the pro shop has me shooting Gold Tip 5575 Hunter XT's and while I'm accurate I honestly don't feel I'm getting as tight of groups as I should be or could be...just curious if anyone believes it's the arrow selection.
According to the arrow chart on GT's site, you are right on the border of moving up in spine weight. If your bow is maxed out, it is probably drawing a little over the advertised maxed out weight as most bows gow around 2lb to I have heard as much as 8lb over the advertised weights. I would try moving to the 7595's and using the NAP Quickfletch Quickspins. I believe if you were at 65lb the 5575's would be fine. I am new to trying to figure the spine weight stuff out. If I am wrong please someone correct me with an explanation so that we all will understand better. Here is the sellection chart link: http://www.goldtip.com/arrowcontent.aspx?page=chart
Sticknstringarchery, I'm really starting to love all you bring to the boards bro! I actually have considered dropping draw weight to 65-67 (steadily getting farther from that young 'stud' I once was haha) which may keep me in the 5575 range if you and I are correct in our calcs. If we're right I'll probably just upgrade my arrow of choice (Pro Hunter or maybe Kinetic Pro if I'm really looking to splurge) I'll also being throwing some type of lighted nock, which will add just a touch of weight too, but minimal to the point shouldn't make or break arrow selection obviously.
In all honesty, I believe it's form or an out of tune bow. My buddy has the same DL/DW as you shooting the same arrows out of his D350 and it shoots those XT5575's like darts... at 311fps I could see going to a more "forgiving" set-up however. Which could help in the form department. My current set-up is: 27" Gold Tip 7595 100 Grain head 50grns of weight added behind the insert 3x Fusion 3.1" Vanes 430 grns total @17% FOC Having all the weight up front really changed my arrow flight. Arrows hit harder and are grouping better. Your arrows are heavy enough for deer, never hurts to go heavier though.
Adding that touch of weight towards the front especially after I throw on a lighted nock and quickspins (will add just a hint of more back weight) is one thing I've seriously thought long and hard about playing with once I started learning more about building an arrow. Thanks!
The arrows you currently use, 5575's, have a .400 spine rating which, IMO, makes them very weak for your setup. The 7595's would be a much better choice although moving to a stiffer spine will likely mean adjusting your arrow configuration such as the tip weight and length. The standard DL setup from the manufacturer is usually 29" and, if you didn't adjust after the test shooting I suspect it is at 29" on your bow unless it was adjusted for someone else previously.
Bruce, if I drop down to 65lbs which will more than likely occur would you still recommend the 7595's? Or would you stick with 5575's add a touch more weight to the front either through insert weight or 125 broadhead? It feels ridiculous that for so long I just assumed my guy was putting me on what was best, and never really learned it all for myself even though I'm a die-hard bowhunter!
Read through Gold Tips recs and chart and looks like if I drop to 67 (was the plan) I'm going to be right on the cusp of 5575 and 7595... So let's see if I understand this all correctly and when I order I'm going with 28'' arrows this time (unless someone explains why that's a bad choice). If I were to stay in the 5575's I'd want to consider adding some more weight to the front to increase my FOC correct? If I go the 7595 route, I more than likely wouldn't need to add any weight? Or would it still be possible to get better results by adding a touch still to the front?
I shoot 28" DL arrow length is 29.25" and have my PSE XS at 62 lbs and using a whisker Biscuit rest. I shoot the 75/95 XT arrows and they fly great. If you look at the differance from a .400 and a .340 spine I would error on the side of the tad stiffer. Shooting fix blade Slick tricks 100 grain. This setup shoots well and penetration is far greater with the heavier arrows. I'm a deer and turkey hunter so my shots will be under 40 yrds all the time, I don't need a lighter arrow Iwant max penetration. KE is great with this setup and over time shooting arrows I feel the heavier 75/95's hold up better. I'm using 3" vane tec vanes and they hold up really well. If I where you I would try the 75/95's from your setup. IMO the extra $$$ for the KE's not worth it, the XT's have been a proven shaft for along time and I like the nocks on the XT better than the new KE style nocks.
IMO, to shoot a .400 spine with a 28+" DL you DW would need to be 60#'s or below. Adding more weight to the front makes the dynamic spine weaker so that would only increase the problem with a .400 spine. What you may want to think about is going to the 7595's with a 125 grain tip and something like a 29" or 30" arrow. That would increase your FOC and total arrow weight which would increase the penetration potential of your arrow. If you added a 125 grain tip and a 50 grain insert to the 7595 then you could go with a shorter arrow too. Keep in mind these numbers are off the top of my head and are not exact but guesstimates.
Listen to Bruce, he knows his stuff. Before you change anything though, maybe try full sized helical vanes or feathers. Its amazing the difference it makes when you are marginally spined. If you suspect a form issue, see if you can find someone with a Hooter jig to check your groups. That takes the human factor out.
Thanks a ton! As I keep reading I am beginning to understand why the 7595's may be best for me even if I did drop to 65 or 67. Looks like the 7595's will be the way to go, now which arrow choice is all that's left, and sadly that's all gonna be cash dependant :D
I don't know why I didn't think about this before but, if you haven't done it or had it done in a while, paper tune it!!! You would be surprised at how big a difference this makes. Then only change one thing at a time. If you are wanting to use NAP QF QS, paper tune it then put a couple QF's on a couple of your arrows you have now and see what that does. If that doesn't work, then go from there. It only takes one good bump on a rest to mess up the tuning. I like to shoot paper once every couple weeks during season and anytime something seems to change during practice. If your bow isn't properly tuned, it will not matter what arrow you nock, it won't ever shoot how you want it too.
Yeah there in lies another naivity or I guess laziness on my part, I always paper tune it spring and before hunting season....I need to just make it a habit like you've done!
