Is my arrow a good weight?

Hello everyone and im just starting to undertand this whole grain per inch and stuff on my arrows. With my set-up how much should yall think i should be shooting. im at 367 w/ Arrow and Muzzy's idk how much my insert weights or the blazers and nock. But what do yall think? let me know.

 

That weight is fine but I tend to like a heavier arrow myself I don't recall the exact weight of my arrows right now but their over 400 grains total. I'm going to increase it more for next season to over 500 grains. More weight better penetration and quieter bow.

 

Are you saying 367 grains total weight? or 367 grains shaft weight only?

367 would suffice but going heavier never hurts. I prefer something in the 410-450 grain range for medium game (deer, bear, etc.. )

 

I have 367 right now Shaft and bradhead, excluding blazer veins, insert, and nock. I would say im around 400ish lol just making sure that is good enough for what i got.

 

Better yet, you should be around 400-405gr finished. Definitely do-able, but like I said, heavier is never a bad thing.

 

thanks guys.

 

370-400 is plenty of weight for deer and such game. Yes a heavier arrow will penetrate a little better and produce a quieter bow bow but you will also lose a lot of trajectory.

 

I'm just trying to find a happy medium weight with decent distancedistance for Colorado hunting as well.

 

I wouldn't say a lot...just check out some of the videos where Dr. Ashby shoots grain tipped arrows from a machine ranging from 100grain all the way to over 300 grain.....will open some eyes up to the whole theory extreme FOC will lose a ton of Trajectory.

 

In most cases the effects of trajectory lost due gravity will be less apparent in a heavy, high FOC arrow.

My hunting arrows are 438-440 grains. My judo arrow is 410. Same POI out to 50. I don't buy the poor trajectory theory on heavy arrows.

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Yeah! I'm actually considering going to Dr. Ashby's tapered arrows with single beveled broadheads next year....man we're talking some heavy hard hitting arrows....all depends on my to buy list (which for this poor boy is always too long ).

 

With a modern compound I dont think you would see a drastic change in penetration/performance with the tapered arrows vs a well built standard arrow in comparison to traditional equipment.

Would be a fun experiment though. Perhaps Bruce can weigh in?

I'm actually excited for season to get over so I can build a new arrow.

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I have never understood what trajectory has to do with killing animals with an arrow. If the arrow impacts where it is supposed too then why does it matter whether it gets there on a rainbow or straight line? Besides, as has already been stated, there really is not that much difference in trajectory between moderately light and moderately heavy.

I would definitely agree. Also, with a high FOC on a standard shaft, something above say 18-19%, it is my opinion that you begin to simulate some of the qualities of a tapered arrow in that there is less flexing and loss of energy on impact. That is a benefit of a good FOC that doesn't get mentioned much, what it helps on impact or, conversely, how too little FOC has more flexing and loss of energy on impact.

 

Thanks to both of you...I've thought about the tapered shafts and think it'd be a great experiment, but I spent hours last night running it through my head, watching videos on alaskabowhunting and similar ones. I think like Bruce said I can simulate or almost replicate what they would produce out of my current arrows if I make sure my spine can handle the FOC I want to create (around 20% probably). That should be able to be done with my current arrows...with some inserts and quite possibly bumping up to the 150 grain samurai heads I am falling in love with.

 

Bruce put me on to the Outback Archery heads which I ordered with the Tanto tip and single bevel. They come unsharpened but I think I can handle that. I was reading up about the single bevel advantage of twisting through game. There are some pictures at the alaskabowhunting site of the damage those heads do if they hit bone. I am looking for hogs and more penetration as I barely made it through the boar I got a couple weeks ago. Thinking of the FMJ Dangerous Game at 16.0 gpi which would give me over 600 grain arrows. One huge advantage of heavier arrows for me is they are very quiet and very stable in flight. I never have gotten used to shooting these light carbon things.

 

Yeah, the sharpening thing is the only reason I don't like the idea of going to single bevel...I love the slicks I shot now and their tough and replacement blades are a breeze....but as good as they do I know the single bevels are even better.

 

I have a couple Griz Tricks. Scary sharp!

 

I did not buy this one. The one I bought came from Alaska Bowhunting and was called the grizzly stick razor sharp system but this is identical to it. I use this to get all BH's and knives to shave thin slivers of paper and certainly to shave hair. I sharpen the single bevels easily with it.

http://www.centaurarchery.com/sharpener.htm

 

What would be the best way to sharpen a broadhead if you dont have a grinder? Ill be using the NAP hellrazors and ill be able to reuse them as long as i sharpen then. What have you guys used to do this?

 

I am shooting 62# and my arrows weigh 379-381 finished weight. I shot a doe through the upper leg bone this year and it punched right through into the heart. I didn't make the shot on purpose but sometimes stuff happens as we all know. I would like a 400-450grn arrow but I can't complain about how well mine worked as is.

As for sharpening 3 blade heads like a Snuffer I use a file to clean up the bevels and then strop them on an old belt. It works really well.