How do you guys decide on arrow length ? I drawed my bow, and had my wife mark my arrow at the front of the shelf. From the groove in the nock, to where she marked it was 28-7/8". It is 3" from the front of the shelf, to the center of my Trophy Taker Drop Away. So technically 26" would be in front of the rest, but thats not what I'm after. My Gold Tip arrows are waiting to be set up, and I'm wanting to run them at 28-1/2" . Does that sound about right ? After this weekend's hunting, my bow will get all it's changes. Going back up to 60#, switching from 31.5" Beman 500's, to 28.5" GT 400's, and swapping out the Trophy Taker for a Rip Cord. Then to get it all tuned.
Ok please, elaborate. I'm searching and going through the archives, but I can't find a definitive answer. I'm trying to become as handy with my bow as I am with guns, so I want to do this stuff myself. I have full time access to an archery shop for tools to use.
Set the bow to centershot and find the arrow length by starting with a long set of shafts and bare shaft tuning and cutting the arrow down gradually until you have a bare shaft flying true out of the bow at centershot.
Thanks. My Gold Tips are all bare shafts. Can the inserts be reused ? Or should I go ahead and order 100 of the acculite inserts ?
You can re-use them if you use hot melt glue and are careful about it. Don't get the shaft heated beyond what you can comfortably hold in your fingers and have a glass of water nearby to cool things with if they get too hot. Heat the glue and apply it to a cool insert then heat the glued insert just enough to liquify the glue again. Then insert it into the shaft slowly with your fingers on the end of the shaft to feel the temp. To pull them; screw in a point and heat it gradually until the glue lets loose and pull the insert. Again, keep your fingers on the end of the shaft to feel for excess heat and have water nearby to cool things if necessary.
Guys how much of a difference can that tuning make ? I mean, I wobble around quite a bit anyway, so does my bow really need to be that finely tuned ?
Using my Beman 500's, which are 31.5" long with 100gr tips, I fired one unfletched with a group of 3 fletched. I snapped some pics. This was 15 yards. The one flectched that is a little high, that was a "flinch" on my part.
See the angle that unfletched arrow hit at.....???? That's gonna be WORSE At 30, and a MISS at 50!!!! YES, tuning is THAT important. Put a BH on that arrow and it'll do the same thing, at 35-40yds, it's gonna hit the deer damned near sideways!!! You want your BH to lead, a weak spine or really stiff spine is gonna cause that arrow to do some funky stuff, taking away from the energy you NEED to punch that arrow through your trophy. I sent you info on what should spine almost perfect to a touch stiff in the PM, TRUST ME, I've set up probably a dozen bows in the last 6 months, and ALL of them will put BH's with FP's out to 40yds!!! Go to pinwheel.com and download a trial version of OnTarget2, and toy with it, it's will teach a lot about set-ups. You're 500's are completely off the scale on the weak side, putting you at risk for THIS.... (except being right handed, it'll be your LEFT HAND!!!)
THIS is why tuning is IMPORTANT!!! I believe this is #17, and I was just shooting a few arrows, practicing stalk, draw shoot from 32yds..... (FYI, these arrows run $50/dozen raw shafts, and you can have 'em fletched however you like!!!)
Also, if you cut them to 29", and then you decide you want to go up in draw-weight, you can cut an inch off of them, and they'd be good for that bow at around 60#...(shortening the arrow stiffens the spine.)
Do you mean 29" shaft only ? Or 29" to the nock groove ? The Acculite nocks that came with the Gold Tips only add 1/4" to the groove.
