if your field points are moving the same amount as your broadheads when you adjust your sight in my mind i think tuning issue. Read the easton tuning guide specifically the section on broadhead tuning. It should give you a decent understanding of the method to get your broadheads shooting just like your field points. I was having some issues earlier this summer so i French tuned (which requires duct tape and a level) and broadhead tuned. afterwards my broad heads (fixed G5 Montec's) where hitting exactly where my field points were. I haven't had any issues since. If you have any questions on these methods feel free to ask on here. pretty much any one will be more than willing to help you out. I am not much help on the sight shifting issue as my fix for something like that tends to be replace it. *just noticed your post about a paper tune and if you search back through the topics i think i started a thread that got a pretty heated discussion about paper tuning and how you can actually fake any tune test to make it look as if you are shooting right. As i stated try the French method. didn't fail me and i was a big believer in paper tuning which just kept me questioning what was wrong with my rig.
Get some more shots through the bow with broadhead and see where your at and post up the results. I seldom paper tune anymore, it gets you headed in the right direction but you still seldom are perfectly tuned. The increase of 7 lbs may change a lot of stuff so see where your at.
I'd either find a new place to take my bow to get worked on or learn to do it myself. I had the same issue with not having a good archery store around so I picked learning to do it myself. As Greg said anyone that tells you that you can't have the same POI with BHs and FPs is lazy, ignorant or both.
Some updates. I mentioned last night that I had emailed several manufacturers with essentially this question: Will I always have to re-site my bow when switching from field points to broadheads? So far, here are the answers I have received - Quest - answer = basically NO. An actual person, with their name included, responded. Their answer was that you should be able to get some close groups, 2 inch or so, then might need to fine tune Slick Trick - answer = NO. Owner responded with phone number. Nice explanation included. Muzzy - answer = basically NO. Again, an person, with name and phone number responded. Explanation similar to Quest in that groups (3 inch) should be expected then some fine tuning. Bow Tech - answer = YES. This one was a shocker. It came back with no name, little explanation. I am still waiting on several other responses. So, this thread has taken a bit of a turn, and if it is getting annoying or boring let me know. I thought it valuable to post some of this feedback since, to me, it is kind of telling of the type(s) of companies we are doing business with. Not only the response itself, but how detailed, how quick and whether or not it includes an actual person for further questions. Anyways, back to my issue. I tried a few shots this morning. Increasing the poundage has brought my broadheads to the same up/down mark, but is still off to the left by a few inches. Now, I also put on a peep site, and it is HUGE compared to my old site, so I may have some form adjustments to make. It is also twisting a bit, so I need to correcting that. I am actually shooting into a bag target, which at this point is pretty tore up, so I need a new target, preferably a broadhead target which I should have got when I bought the bow. Wal Mart is about my only local choice and the one that have has terrible reviews on their website, so not sure what I am going to find. To GAbowhunter, you are dead on. I am trying to figure this out so I can do my own work. That tends to be my style with things. I am sometimes a slow learner so ask lots of questions on boards and in person when I can. I have gotten the best education so far off of this board.
I'm assuming Mark from Muzzy responded to your e-mail? He's a good friend and their technical advisor... he's awesome, but really not sure if he can tell you much more than you'll read for yourself on Easton's tuning guide. I think someone posted a link to it earlier; that's basically the Bible for tuning when you're first getting started. I think the broadhead tuning section is on page 11 of the PDF, but I'm going SOLELY from memory... If the rep at BowTech was going to respond with that answer, he just may as well not have... unfortunately, just like pro shops -- just because you work for an archery manufacturer doesn't mean you're qualified to give tuning advice. A lot of people that have even spent a little bit of time behind a bow (case in point: your Bass Pro dudes) don't realize what a tuned bow is capable of. Make sure you're spined correctly to start off with (you may have to adjust your bow's poundage to fine-tune this...), move to a walkback-tune and then finish by broadhead tuning. I can have a bow set up to hunt with from out-of-the-box to producing same POI with FPs and BHs out to 40 yards in about an hour.
i read up top that you said you put loc-tite on the screws I was at a bow shop recently and asked them about that because my quiver mount loosens every few shots. They said not to put loc-tite in, because it will actually ruin the aluminum and if it comes looses again, it will never tighten right again. As far as my quiver goes , I think i may have over tightened at one point and possibly streched out the threads.
Gents - Apologies for not followin up. I got tied up there for a few days. First, yes it was Mark from Muzzy. He seems like a good guy, and gave me some good tips. I did get back some more responses from different companies, and it is still interesting to see the responses. Again, the question I asked was "Will I always have to re-site my bow when switching from field points to broadheads?" - Martin - no name, answer "Yes" - Parker - response was from an actual person, answer "depends on the broadhead" - Bear - actual person, answer similar to Parker, basically a "maybe" - Carbon Express- actual person. Answer= "No." Nice explanation followed, especially discussing arrow spine. Offered to discuss it on the phone with me. Again, mostly posting this becuase it is interesting to me and tells me something about each company. As for my results, here is what I did. I picked up a cheap broadhead target and some super cheap 3 blade, fixed broadheads from Wal Mart. I don't neccesarily intend to hunt with them, but they looked real close to muzzy 3 blades in terms of blade shape, over all configuration etc. Until I can pick up some new Muzzys, I figured this would be close and serve as practice blades. On following all the advice, reading the Easton guide and everything else, I am now within about 1 to 1.5 inch difference between my broadheads and field points. I will still fine tune. Of course, Murphy's Law being what it is, I have now decided I need a new string. Between the issues with my old site, and then getting the new peep put in, the string is really frayed right there at the peep. Plus, I can't seem to control the twisting and the new tubeless peep is too big for my preference. I was able to find a new string, but so far haven't found a way to install it. I just don't live close to many shops, and the one shop I was at wanted to take more than a week to put it on. So, I am now debating on getting a portable press, or building one from pipe clamps. I may start another thread on that in the tech section. Anyways, I think I am getting there. Its been an interesting thread, and I have learned a ton, not just about my bow but about a lot of different companies.
