Wouldn't that be great. I'd probably need one of those fancy laser tools also, though. How much to they run and are they different for every bow or is it a one size fits all type of tool?
It mounts in the sight screw holes so it should fit all bows. You can use it for more than just center shot too. http://www.bowhunting.com/shopping/Products/Ez-Center-Laser-Tuning-Aid__095.aspx
This is very different from the lasers I've seen used to identify cam lean. How would this one work for that?
I have mounted it facing the rear instead of the front, where it would be mounted to check centershot, and then you can rotate it to aim at the cam while you are drawing on a draw board and watch how it tracks the cam. Spot Hogg makes one that you are probably familiar with: http://www.spot-hogg.com/tuningequipment.html
If French tuning is the type where you shoot at 3-5 yds, then shoot at 40 or so, I think he's risking losing arrows. How does the bow shoot at say 20yds with a fletched arrow??? What are your arrow lengths??? I'd tend to think you may still have a touch of a weak spine, and OT2 says even at 27" you'd be a bit on the weak side. Try dropping the draw down to about 65#, and see if that fixes anything. Of course could also be cam lean as well, could be a lot of variables, but one quick way to know right off might be to drop the draw weight and see if things improve.
There's not much risk of losing arrows. I've actually managed to shoot it at longer distances and still hit the target. At 20 yards, it's hit and miss. Some are right on, some left, some right. It's actually about the same at longer ranges, but I believe that's because the blazers are stabilizing the flight of the arrow. My arrows are cut to 28" (carbon to carbon). Surely I'm not underspined with a .300 arrow. I was also getting the same tears with a 100 grain field point.
An arrow will fly accurately even with a lot of kick with a field point. You can french tune at 3' and 20 yards plenty good enough to set center for a preliminary tune.
Chief, I went through this with my D350 at first. I ended up going back to factory specs beause all of my efforts had thrown it out of whack. Then set rest at true centershot. Advance the bottom cam just a touch- enough so you can notice it, but no more. Then put a touch of cam lean on the bow. Lay an arrow along the window side of the cams to show such. Arrow should touch the string about 9-10" from each cam. Then shoot through paper. Adjust nock point first. Then put 1/2 twist in the cam yoke on each side of the tear. Left tear= add 1/2 twist to left top yoke leg and 1/2 wist to left bottom yoke leg. When you get a good paper tear, try with broadheads. I was able to get broadheads and field points to impact together out to 60 yards doing this.
I have to admit that I'm totally unfamiliar with dual cam bows. I have to ask a question, though. When you say "advance the bottom cam", exactly how is that done and what would it accomplish?
On the top limb there is a split cable yoke cable (buss) that runs to the bottom cam and vice-versa. Then there is a string that runs from each cam to the other. When the bow is at rest, the position of both cams in relation to the edge of the limbs will tell you if they are set the same. The cams will have holes or timing marks on them to make it easier to compare them. You can change the position of the cams in ralation to each other by adjusting the buss cable length. If you put the bow in a press and take a twist or so out of the buss cable you are lengthing the cable slighlty and advancing it because in the now longer state it is allowed to roll forward slightly (towards the bow). Likewise at full draw the string needs to hit each draw stop peg at the same time. By adjusting the cam rotation you make that occur when the bow is drawn. Try this link.... http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1118006 http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=1266527&d=1327458957 http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=1266526&d=1327458909
