New stabilizer set up, going from wrist release to thumb, used to draw with a low elbow to a high elbow. I feel like I could push the draw length and extra 1/2 Legit question, what do you see? The ground was slightly uneven, my heels were low https://youtube.com/shorts/265L_ZC0_tE?si=LLxffF6f5Q89YMBP
for sure you are a command shooter.... no follow thru with release hand ... SLOW DOWN between shots and during the shot process .. draw may be a tad long, hard to see at that distance to camera .... yes, high release elbow, that needs to come down, should be level with the arrow or damn close to it .... .... learn to shoot the thumb button properly, it takes time/thousands of shots ....
Draw is way long like previously stated. Focus on thumb fat anchor for grip Sent from my Pixel 6 using Tapatalk
Follow through on release hand The lack there of would have to do with too much thumb and no "push and pull"? I really don't think I'm overdrawn, I'm 6'3 shooting 30 inches and I feel like my left elbow is actually pretty bent. Explain where the elbow should be during the draw, I used to do the arm real low pull back then pivot arm/shoulder around and up, well my shoulder hurts. Doing this high elbow I've got no shoulder soreness, no peck soreness, and after doing it a bit the draw weight actually feels lower. When I watch guys like Chris Bee I don't feel like my elbow is that much higher during draw.
Focus on grip to determine push arm and you should be drawn with string touching or with the ability to touch your nose . But you are successful man, no worries. I just find having that second anchor point increases my accuracy. Sent from my Pixel 6 using Tapatalk
Watching my video and focusing on where the string contacts my face i can see where the over draw comments come from. It kind of makes sense when considering where the "trigger" is on the index and thumb releases. If you hold your hand as if both your index and thumb are on their respective triggers at same time there is a big difference, so if my hand is anchored at a similar/same place I'd have to bend my left elbow a lot to bring everything back that extra bit. I was never taught how to shoot, and now that my oldest boy is shooting I've really wanted him to learn so as to not do the low elbow draw that hurt my shoulder so much so I'm also trying to improve. I will say though, I broke a couple nocks the day I made that video. So I shot well.
Form tutorials say that the draw length should be set so that the string crosses the corner of your mouth, and often that it should just touch the tip of your nose. Tip of nose thing is subjective when it comes to shorter a to a bows (steeper string angle), so I like to just look for the string crossing the corner of the mouth. Along with that is looking at body posture, many that are using a longer than ideal draw length are leaning back at the waist. Where the string lands on their face may look perfect, but they are hitched back at the waist to make it land there. You look to be standing up nice and straight with no hitch at the hips. In your video the string is well past the corner of your mouth and tip of nose. It looks like the string is crossing halfway up your nose line. With that being said, I have seen a couple people locally that shoot the way you do, with the string coming back much further so the peep is closer to their eye, it works better for their eyesight needs. Kind of like a tang sight setup on a rifle. But peep really close to the eye setup doesn't give the normal references as far as where the string lands on your face. That will be up to you to get it where it feels good to you, works for your eyesight, and is repeatable for you. But, if you're not purposely setting the draw length so long to accommodate what works best for your eyesight, then you're probably very much giving up a much steadier pin float by being so much over on draw length. I also wonder, with the peep so close to your eye, how your sight housing aligns with your peep view? Do you see a ton more of area in your peep view besides just your scope housing? While a 30" draw length setting doesn't sound unreasonable for someone who is 6'3", it sure looks long in the video. I'd be curious to hear what your wing span measurement is. Tip of middle finger to tip of other middle finger, without stretching your arms back so far that your chest expands. Just stand up straight nice and relaxed and then hold your arms out, have a helper measure. I have to shorten my draw length setting a 1/2" to use a handheld, from my index release setup. I put my index finger first knuckle in the pocket at the end of my jawline with an index, with a handheld I anchor ON my jawline with my index finger and middle finger splitting it. Look at the Chris Bee pic 0317 posted above, see how the string crosses the corner of his mouth with arrow sitting halfway between corner of mouth and jawline? Assuming he isn't leaning back at the waist (he doesn't), that is a picture perfect draw length setting. The second video 0317 posted, look at that face anchor. The string is beyond crossing the corner of his mouth, I'd say he has about a 1/2" too long of a draw length setting. But everyone is different and perhaps that setting simply gets him better results. "Ideal" form is the starting point, then dial from there to find what gives you the best results. There is a lot of "discussion" about proper form (i.e. arguing ), but then I watch a video of Pros shooting and see all kinds of form variations among them that is not in line with "proper" form. I think your overall form looks good. Stance position of your feet, standing up straight, head position. Your drawing motion looks picture perfect for what the Pros say about engaging back muscles and preventing injuries to shoulders. I do see some bend in your bow arm. I'm not sure if that is to accommodate the draw length setting to hit the face anchor you want (which makes me understand why you think you could go another 1/2" longer on draw length) or if it is from dropping your bow arm and shoulder down a bit to aim at a downhill target. If the latter, then I'd suggest trying to anchor in with the bow held level, get all settled, and then bend at the waist to bring your pin down to POA. For me, that has always been the most repeatable way for me to shoot at uphill/downhill targets and not push the shot high.
if 6/3 with a 30" draw, I'll change my first comment, maybe a tad short.. a 1/4-1/2 inch could be added (maybe, if poss.) .. that bow arm needs to extend some, but still keep the shoulder down, elbow not locked ... I had to make adjustments to the cables and add loop length to my BT SR 350 to gain better form and anchor esp. when using my Stan Onex .. It's factory 30" max draw ... I'm 6-2 and my next Bowtech/Elite will be at least a 30.5"-31" max so I can get the adjustments needed for my draw length .. Elite does it in 1/4 inch increments ... Bowtech 1/2" increments with the SR350, not sure of their newer bows ... ...
Height just isn't a good way to assess draw length. I know a guy 5'10" that has a 29" draw length and I know another guy that is 6'4" and also has a 29" draw length.
I'm 6'3 and have a 29.5 draw. Best and most accurate way we use in the shop is stand with your fist against the wall with arm extend like you are holding a bow. (Standing sideways) And measure from wall to corner of the mouth. Then add half a inch Sent from my Pixel 6 using Tapatalk
Or height minus 15 then divided by 2 Or wing span divided by 2.5. Or just go to a shop and ask. Sent from my Pixel 6 using Tapatalk
Wing span method comes up to 27.7" for me. Far and away the closest to my actual. I can't remember what the actual measurement was when I tried it, but the fist against a wall and measure to corner of mouth came up short. But I don't think I knew that you then add a 1/2" to it, I'll have to try that one again. In my mind this one seems like it would be the most accurate method. I'd never heard of the height one. I'm 5'7", that one comes up at a 26" draw length for me. A fair amount off. I'm doing my best to not go off on a tangent about an individual bow's draw length setting vs. actual measured in a draw board, d-loop lengths, style/brand of release aids, etc.
