My bow is set at 70# right now. I can pull it back easily and everything during practice, but I shot my Dad's Allegiance on 60# and it was alot easier and felt alot more comfortable. I shoot a Fred Bear Lights Out at 29", and I'm getting Carbon Express Terminator Light Hunter's for arrows next week. Will I need to get a heavier arrow? or broadhead? Will I still have the (EDIT: Kinetic Energy) I need?
What they said. Spine is your most important thing. Pick your head weight & then determine what spine you'll need from the pro-shop or the charts. Also, Arrows really don't have "knockdown" power.
If I were going to listen to 3 guys on this site, it would be these 3. Do what they tell you. You will not go wrong.
As far as "knockdown" power I believe you mean what most reference as Kinetic Energy (KE) although the term "knockdown" is more commonly used when referring to bullets and takes into effect a lot more than KE. The simple answer to your slightly misphrased question is; yes, you'll have plenty of energy for killing deer and pigs, and pretty much anything else in N. America for that matter. Personally I'd go with a bit heavier arrow but I don't know that a deer is going to notice whether the arrow travels 2 yards out the other side of it or 20. The thing is for me that my main game isn't deer. Look at your application and plan accordingly.
According to the shaft selector chart, for 60#/29" i should get the 4560, but for the 60"/30" I should get 6075. I have a 29" inch module in, but you can micro adjust it to make it a little longer, so I guess this would put me inbetween the 4560 and the 6075? The chart said if your inbetween sizes to go bigger. What should I do?
How do I know if I need to make it stiffer or weaker? Just by shooting it or what? Sorry if these questions are kind of dumb, Im still learning the whole arrow thing.
The reason the chart says to go with the stiffer arrow when on the line between is that a stiffer arrow is easier to tune than a weak arrow and a stiffer arrow tends to be favored by a broadhead over a weak one. So if you're going to err, err on the side of slightly stiff rather than slightly weak. One other thing to note is that the charts are based on arrow length, not draw length. Some of the better programs for determining arrow shaft selection take draw length into consideration as well, which is an important factor but the charts are just a quick and easy starting point that don't get into that fine detail.
