I am a bowhunter from Denmark shooting european roedeer. NEED HELP i just bought a Bowtech specialist. how do i paper tune it , and how do i adjust the binary cams. with other words how to tune et to perfection.Are ther any websites to look at. hope that some of you guys can help me Looking forward to learn more John the Danish bowhunter.
You will need a bowpress and a draw board to do it correctly. Start by installing your rest on the bow. Make sure your arrow will pass through the riser shelf just about parallel with the berger holes in the riser. Then tie in your nock sets and loop. I set mine up exactly level. I believe my rest is about 13/16" from the riser for centershot. I'll bottom both limbs out as well, then take the same amount of turns out of both to get the desired poundage. Once I did this, then I pressed the bow to access the draw mod screws, and got it set to where the manual said it should be for my DL. I believe it was pretty darn close, but I tweaked to my 30.25" DL. I installed my accessories then just put around 50 shots through the bow to get the new string/cables settled before tweaking anything further. Once the string/cables are settled, then I put it back on the draw board to check for timing, I want both draw stops hitting at the same time. I'll press, and twist whichever cables need it so that I can get both sides coming around at the same time. Once I've got them timed, I'll put another couple of shots on it, then recheck. Next I'll put the bow back on the draw board. At full draw I'll lay an arrow across the face of the cams to see if there is any lean while at full draw. If needed, I'll press then adjust the yokes on the bow to make sure they aren't leaning. After this then I'll check it again for draw length, if you adjust the cables enough you can throw things off.....and correct DL is very important. Now I'll check things for arrow flight, etc........ I'll start with selecting an arrow by looking things up in OnTarget2 to make sure I've got a correct spine, etc. Once they are selected and made up, I'll head outside and walkback tune the bow to find centershot. Mine was dead on first try. I then verify what I'm seeing with the walkback tune by shooting through paper. Again, mine was shooting bullet holes at this point, but your mileage may vary. At this point, I'll tiller tune the bow for hold. I'll come to full draw and see if the bow has a tendency to come up or down when I'm relaxed. If the bow wants to go down when I'm relaxed, I may start adding a bit more limb on top, adding turns 1/8th of an inch at a time. You will hit a point where the bow just floats on the spot. Make sure you papertune and check cam timing again if you need to do this, as tiller adjustments can throw things off. Once this is done, I'll creep tune the bow. This is VERY important with these bows. They tune a bit more like traditional dual cams than the first generation of Binary style cams (I think this is a good thing, you have better control to tune perfect). Creep tuning is the ultimate way to finalize your cam timing and get yourself perfect level nock travel. I like to creep tune at 30 yards. Start by putting a horizontal line of tape across your target. Start by shooting at the tape with a single arrow, while holding in the middle of the valley. Adjust sights till you good shots hit the tape. Now on your next shot, pull hard into the back wall, and execute a clean shot. And after that one, shoot another while drawn slightly short, from the very front of the valley. If all three shots hit the tape line, then your OK. If the shot from the front of the valley hits high, you will need to adjust the cable that ties to the bottom cam (the one with a single loop) by adding half twists at a time. Hope this helps........feel free to ask me questions if I can help while your tuning yours. I've got one I just setup for 3D and field archery a couple of weeks ago, and I absolutely love the bow.
