On a single cam bow, you're always going to have cam lean, on the cam. There are no yokes to twist on that end to straighten it out. You can however take the lean out of the idler wheel at the top because there, you do have yokes. To check if your idler is leaning, take an arrow and lay it across the idler wheel and let it run parallel to your string. If the idler is leaning, the distance between the arrow and the string will vary as the arrow runs down the string. Then put twists in or take twists out of one side of the yoke cable until the arrow is perfectly parallel to the string. The idea is to get it as close as you can. I'm not familiar with single cams anymore, but I believe its preferred to have it perfectly parallel at brace to start with.
Muzzy man pretty much covered it. One thing I will add is that you want your idler parallel at full draw not at brace. A way to get around measuring it at full draw it to set it so there is no lean at brace and ten give the right side yoke one half twist and the left side yoke one half UN twist while looking at hte bow as if you were shooting it. This will get you where you need to be. Good luck!
Good info there! This is precisely how you setup the Binary Cams on the Bowtech's. Even with the Flex Guard, there is still a bit of lean in the cams. Not NEARLY what it would be with a static roller or cable slide, but some. But, you want to set the cams, or idler in the case of the single cams, to lean top left if you're looking at the bow from behind, ever so slightly.
