I was watching a few videos the other night on anchoring and it was mentioned that using a wrist strap, which I currently do, and moving to a thumb release would cause some minor issues as the thumb release is going to a slightly longer draw to have LOD correct and it will change your anchor point. The LOD I can kind of see as it would appear that my wrist strap would be about an inch longer than a thumb release. It's the anchoring part I can't quite wrap my head around. Can anyone share some knowledge on why and how the anchoring point would change?
for me, going from a wrist to a thumb, I have to move my peep down a tad, about 1/4" to 3/8" .... I use a B3 Hawk Hook flex wrist strap and a Stan Onnex thumb ..... soooo, right now I'm using the Thumb with the SR350 and the wrist with my Ritual 33 ... my draw length didnt change, anchor did change ....
I tried a thumb release could never get comfortable with it, plus you are not going to drop a wrist release.
Many thumbs come with a strap or you can add one on it ... never dropped one from a tree either(a lot of other stuff, yes)/20yrs use of one model or another for hunting/3D and spots ... I did have a hard learning curve when I started using one .... I went to one 'cause of TP ... went thru several different brands and now using the Stan Onnex which I really like ... that said, I still like the Hawk Hook wrist flex ... different bows, different setups, different releases .. when in a stand the Onnex release just hangs from the loop, it cant fall off as a safety flipper keeps it on the loop ...
I was actually looking at a new wrist thumb release from B3. Also I see a pretty weird release from spot-Hogg called The Keeton, but usually with a lot of reps we can overcome and get use to new things. Now would be the time to change. Gives us time til the season starts to condition ourselves, or continuing to use what we know
I have the Keeton ... I used it when my shoulder arm was messed up ... when setup properly, it does help when drawing ....
its a tad on the large size, but not overly cumbersome ..... it is vitally important to adjust the length of the flex strap and the wrist strap so when drawing the weight of the draw is equal to what is on your fingers and the actual wrist strap ... length of the flex/web strap is important ... it took about 20 shots with mine and a few adjustments but when I got it right, it was great and allowed me to continue shooting with my sore shoulder/tendonitis .. killed a several deer with it ... I still like it and will use it from time to time with my Ritual 33 ... I got mine thru Lancaster about 3-4 yrs back ...
That is where I first seen this release was through Lancaster. Thanks for the feedback on it. Definitely gonna look into it more detailed and might pick one up to check out . also off subject I love that profile picture
I think I’m gonna seal the deal with that release. I was already looking at the wise guy at first just a little effy about a hook to the D loop.
The B3 Hawk Hook has never been a problem .. I kinda thought the same at first, iffy on a hook... my new Stan Onnex thumb is a hook, but with a flipper to hold it on the string in the stand.. I think you'll like the Keeton .. if you have a ? ask away
I'm actually in the process of moving over to a thumb release right now. I've shot it for the last few years, but my old habits always make me go back to a wrist strap for hunting. I have terrible time with change. lol. It really depends on the wrist release you have been shooting in what changes you'll need to make to accomodate the thumb button. It also depends on how you anchored with the wrist strap. For me, I anchored my wrist release with the webbing between my thumb and index finger in the corner of my jaw. It was nice and repeatable. Going to a thumb, I split my index and middle finger on the jaw. I found I needed to raise my peep a little bit and I almost feel like my draw length is a hair long but I"m working through that to decide if thats the case or if its just a feel thing.