The serrations that the "Old Timers" and some current people refer to are really micro serations that can not be seen by the eye. They are done with a file but it sure takes some skill. They are still very very sharp. The idea was that the blade would remain sharper then a polished edge after entering the initial hide, hair and ribs. Personally, I am not that good with the file alone and still polish up my heads with wet/dry sandpaper taped to a hard surface. i;ve heard good things about paper wheels which I may also try.
Would you expect to be able to feel the file induced micro-serrations? I've been going over an Outback Supreme 3:1 single bevel I bought last year. I'd previously tried to change the bevel from 30* (or more) to 25* using an ABS broadhead pro, and it wouldn't produce an even "grind" along the edge, much deeper in the middle. Had at it with a nicholson curved tooth file and oh my, this thing removes metal like nothing I've ever seen. Got the bevel set, but when I switch to the flat side to remove the burr, the burr won't quite all go away. I think it's because of one or two things, the non straight edge from the broadhead pro or using too much force (I used light medium) with the file left the edge uneven. I've worked it through a 600 and 1200 grit diamond stone, then a manila file folder the smooth leather. Grabs my nail like crazy, can't see any serrations but I can feel them. However, won't shave hair, or easily snap a taught rubber band. I think I need to start over.
It's tough for me to say. It should cut very easily which would make me think that it should not grap your finger nail that much. The rubber band is a decent test, but I don't always care for the hair test. In any case depending on the metal type burrs are sometimes hard to remove and sometimes if you do remove them, the edge is duller then with the burr on it. I'm sure that wasn't any help at all, but without seeing it, its a bit tought o comment.
RB I get my Supremes razor sharp just using a course then fine arkansas stones. But then again I never tried to change the bevel angle don't really see any need too.
I was able to get the woodsmans I changed to a more shallow angle last year to shave hair, first time I've ever had any luck with it. They also popped a rubber band so fast it surprised me. That's what I'm finding, if I work hard to make sure the burr is gone, the blade seems more dull. No problem, thanks, good to know others go through this too
Russ, how do you test for razor sharpness? Probably no need to change the bevel, I just had the ashby fever and wanted to see if I could do it. Got the bevel changed just fine, but it's like it's too shallow. If I leave the burr on, while sharp it's very flimsy. I won't even tell you how bad I messed up trying to change the tip to a tanto
Mine will cut hair, rubber bands, slice through paper like a hot knofe through butter and the best way to test them. No worries I can visually see it:D Mate you know the guy who makes them has done a ton of testing with them and came up with the angle through trial and error, on some of the toughest game animals on the planet.
But Ashby says... I have 2 more I haven't touched yet. I may just leave the bevel as is with them. You don't tanto tip yours either do you Russ? Hard to argue with the results in your above pic
RB I just use them as they come (after I sharpen them of course.) The ones I sharpened last year are still razor sharp so I am good to go.
I like mine scary sharp and the only way I've seen them get that sharp is to have a highly polished edge on them. (They'll cut you if you even look at them wrong.) I'm wondering how you're taking the burr off? Remember that you have to take it off cutting into your stone or file with the blade edge. If you take it off the wrong direction you'll roll the edge over and dull your head again; sharpen into the edge and strop away from the edge.
I think you're talking about sharpening something like the Snuffer or Montec and the fact that if you're cutting in straight to one blade you're by default dragging the off blade backward? The trick is that you can't cut the blade in at a 90* angle. You have to push the head down the stone in the direction it flies/cuts. That way you're sharpening both edges at once. It's less than ideal, as is the 30* angle that you're forced into with this style head but I have been successful at putting a mirrored edge on this style head that will flat out scare you! The key is that rather than stopping at the 1000 grit stone that I use for my knives, I take it to a 1600 grit polish; wicked, scary sharp!
All 5 of my Snuffers are shaving hair that are In my quiver for hunting but I gotta admit they are much tougher sharpening then the 125's I've always used before. I'd still like to get my Snuffers that I'm using now a tad bit sharper though.
I never use a file. I think my coarse stone is 600 and my finest is 1600, I just use them in series. Most files aren't wide enough to cover the full width of a 3 blade head.
So is there a trick to testing sharpness by shaving hair? I must be doing it wrong. Can't shave hair for the life of me, so I assumed I must not be sharp enough even though the edge easily grabs my nail and feels sharp. This past weekend I bought a new utility knife to remove some carpet. Put in a fresh blade, sliced and diced just like it should, cut very easily. Went to turn the blade around to use the fresh side, tried to shave hair with it on my forearm, nothing I must be doing it wrong.
As soon as I can swing it, I'm ordering a KME knife sharpener from Ron (sharpster @ tradgang and other places). I'm convinced my issue with the file is holding a consistent blade angle. Saw a youtube and they even did 3 blades with it.
Thats the sharpner Alan (Woody) recomends on the Outback Broadhead web page. I have been promising myself one of those for a year or more now.
