I spent 2 weeks this past winter getting my 20yd and 60 yd marks perfect. Turned out to be a #36 site tape. Now 3 weeks before opening day its on at 20 and 30 but as I go out further I'm losing yardage. I was very careful today shooting marked yardage and I needed 67yds on the dial to hit dead on at 60. Also at 80yds the dial was 93. So what happened? No change in equipment. Same poundage. Could it be that cold dry winter air is less dense than summer heat and humidity. Could atmospheric conditions change it that much.? Do I need to start over or can I just go up a tape number or two? And at that loss of yardage how many numbers up do I go if I don't want to start over.? Also anybody using archers advantage for HHA and if so how do you like it?
Not really sure but if it was me I would start from scratch and re-sight it in. I personally did the 20-40 and did the conversion. Lot easier for me to get an accurate shot at 40 than 60.
The air density definitely plays a factor in arrow flight - I'm just not sure how much to be honest. As for poundage, have you checked with a scale to confirm it hasn't changed? On a new bow string stretch can cause you to lose a couple pounds. If you know where you're hitting dead on at 60 it should be an easy change. Leave your sight dialed in at 60, grab another setup tape, put the 0 mark at 20, then see where your mark hits and that's your tape. Should take about 2 minutes and you won't need to actually stick the new setup tape onto your dial. Just hold it in place until you get the reading.
Im with Justin. Especially if you haven't shot you bow in awhile. Check for string stretch. When ever I setup a bow I record the Axel to axel and brace measurements. That way I can always easily check to see the string has stretched. If you have a bow scale checking the poundage and recording that is awesome too.
Ok I rechecked the tape with the site mark tape. Its telling me to use #41 site tape. Thats a lot more than I would have thought. I got #36 in the winter when I originally sited in.By the way it was in the low 30's and 20's when I originally sighted it.Now it's in the 90's with 80 plus humidity. Haven't had time to try it yet. So as it gets cooler and cooler am I gonna be shooting higher and higher? Oh btw poundage is exactly the same 62 @28.5in draw chronoed at 318. I have access to a bow scale and chrono and nothings changed on the bow stats thats why I can only think its weather conditions.
Darton pro 3000 out of a shop in Chicopee MA called "Arrowspeed archery" 62lbs. 323gr.total weight arrow going 318 chrono. Arrows are carbon express predator 2000's
Do you know did your 20 yard number change at all when you re-sighted in or was it just your 60 number that changed? or both?
I carefully shot 20 to 60 moving the pin only not looking at the yardage until after I was dead on. I didn't start losing yards till about 50.At 60 dead on the dial read 67. At 80 the dial read 93. I have not had the chance yet to shoot with the new 41 tape applied to my spare wheel. That's 5 tapes up from what was dead on in winter conditions. Very perplexing. I will report back after shooting later today.
My guess is that string/cables have stretched since you last shot. But on another note make sure your 20 is really 20. Most people get it right at 40 or 60 but a lot of times people pick a setting and they're dead on at 20 and they make a mark and move to 40 or 60. That'll work if you'll only shoot 15-30 yards with that bow. The problem is mathematic. You need to move your sight to the last option just before being dead on at 19 yds. This will increase the distance on your tape between 20 and 60 but it will be far more accurate in between and out further. With bows today shooting faster there's not much difference between 20 and 25 yds. Some people just hurry thru finding their 20 and hit dead on at 20 but it may be closer to their 25 pin. Don't know if I'm explaining myself well here. You don't want to do the math for 20 to 60 if you're unknowingly doing it for say 24 to 60. Won't hurt much up to 30 but you'll have a lot of problems out further. The shorter distance between 20 and 60 makes the math think your bow is faster than it really is and then you have to put your sight on 67 to hit 60. If your bow is really fast enough that there's not much difference between 20 and 25 then if done right the gap on your tape between 20-25 will be tiny. But you still need to keep shooting 20 and move that pin up until you start hitting just below the X at 20 and then move it back down ever so slightly until you're back in the X. Then you know that's the highest your pin can get and still hit 20.
Just returned from the range after shooting the 41 tape. Very dark cuz of overcast and the lateness of the day but the shots were way more on target than the 36 tape. 20 and 30 and 40 dead on. Went to 60 but I was floating them around but still within 3in of the bull. At 80 I was shooting about 5 in groups. It was really too dark to be trying to sight in but I was excited to try the 41 tape. With better light I'm sure I could do better. Still doesn't explain the difference in why though. Will try again with better light.
Ok shot a bunch of arrows with the 41 tape out to 80 yds. WAY better, not losing yds. anymore out to about 80 was the furthest I shot. Still cant explain why other than atmospheric conditions, but she's back on and shooting the eye out of a newt at 80.
Check the uno app and see what hha tape it says you should use. You have your speed and poundage all you need is two other measurements. Sent from my iPhone using Bowhunting.com Forums
