Hey guys, so here's a little back story... I just got into bows a year ago, I ended up getting a bowtech 82nd airbourne and love it. (70lbs, @ 29" draw) I'm now shooting CX mayhem 350 arrows cut to 28.5" as advised by a shop in my area. I am using blazer vanes, bull dog nock collar and shooting 100 grain tips. After a lot of shooting, and groups getting better, I couldn't help but notice eratic shooting at long range and a lotof arrow wobble no matter what I did with the arrow rest. I finaly learned about eastons bow tuning guide and read throught the thing. I found the part about FOC and how to measure it. So I did. And it turns out I'm at 31% FOC !!!! I tried a 125 grain tip field tip and got it to 21%, but that's still well above the 10-15% reccomended. So here's my conserns... I have some grim reapers and some magnus stinger buzzcut from my wife for my b-day, and now I don't know if ill be able to use them. I'm going to try to get to the store tommarow and pick up some feather vanes to try to lighten up the back end of the arrow, but I don't know if that will be enough. Now, I know that there are some inserts thatgo on the tip end of the arrow toadd weight up front, is this a viable option, of is it better to just buy 125 grain broadheads. I don't really have much money, so.... This is my delema. Thanks for all your guyses help. I appreciate it so much. Brian.
Sorry about all the mis-spelled words. I'm still getting used to this stupid fone. Thanks again, brian.
This doesn't make any sense to me. I doubt your FOC Is that high. When you go up In tip weight your FOC will go up, not down.
Schultzy is right. Better check your math again. Unless you have a bowling ball strapped to the front of your arrow I doubt you have 31% and you add tip weight it would go up.
You will have enough speed coming off of that bow that the FOC is not terribly critical. That set-up will drive arrows right through deer. Now, if your arrows are wobbling, that is something else. The 350's to me seem perfectly matched to your bow. I would consider heading back down to the pro-shop and having them take a look at how that arrow is coming off of your bow. GOOD luck.
Brian, and when you are talking about "long distance" shots how long are we talking? Do you feel like your arrows are hitting good from 30 yards and closer? At what distance do you begin to see them wobble? Keep asking away and the guys on here will help you get your bow shooting great.
I'm hitting pretty good from 30 yards and in. I noticed that the arrow looks like its fishtailing right on the release, and the broadhead hits about 6" to the left of the field tips. Even my grim reapers were hitting a little left. I headed to the store today to get some 4" feathers to replace my blazers. I have been researching a lot today and have come across a lot of threads saying that bowtech bows seem to have the cables closer to the arrow rest. I was looking at a nocked arrow on the rest toady, and I can see that there could be a possibility that the vanes are making contact with the cables. Now, I know that I don't want any cable contact at all, but this is the best way I can aleviate that problem. I'm also going to try shooting cock vane out to give even more clearance. Thanks guys, brian.
What kind of rest are you using? If your feathers/vanes are contacting anything upon release you are going to have an adverse reaction. Who set the nock on your bowstring? Did the pro-shop set the nock point or did you? If your nock point is too high or too low that may be causing the fishtailing or wobbling.
You've go a WEAK spine for that 82nd pulling 29". I had to drop my draw-weight down to low 60's and still had weak spine reactions, but I was shooting 29.5" arrows. Drop your weight to about 65#, and see how it shoots.
Okay guys.. First off, the pro shop where I bought the bow set the nock point. Second... I am using a trophy ridge vertical drop away rest. And third... I re calculated my FOC using a more thuroly spelled out equation and came up with 12.94% FOC. I think this should be accetable. Question... When dropping draw weight, how do I know when I get to a certain poundage?? I don't have a scale. Should I just take out equal half turns on the limb bolts and watch the arrows reaction? Thanks guys, brian.
After re-reading the replys to this post, I'm a little confused as to if my spine is correct or not??? One reply says its weak and one says its correct... Is there a way to make sure???
I received some great advice this year in my attempts to tune my arrows to my bow. I grabbed 3-4 unfletched arrows and shot them at 15 yards. For one reason or another they shot several inches to the left and high. I adjusted my nock point and cut my arrows down by 1/4 inch increments until the arrows were hitting true. I swear my unfletched arrows hit dang near the same as my fletched arrows at 15 yards. In fact, even in the rain with the feathers wet the arrows are pretty darn accurate. This was the first year in a decade of shooting a bow that I went through the entire tuning process. I am very glad that people on here helped me out and I got it done. Stick with it Brian! So my suggestion given the great advice I received this year is to shoot 3-4 arrows with great form at 15 yards. At that point note where your arrows are hitting. Then begin to make the necessary adjustments to get your arrows flying true. If it is true that your arrows are a tad weak they will shoot to the left. Then you can lower the draw weight to stiffen your spine (as suggested by OHbowhuntr) or cut your arrows down slightly to stiffen up your arrows.
I was thinking about lowering my poundage. I think this will make it easyier to shoot on those cold days sitting in a stand. I can pull back 70lbs no prob for a while, so I think 65 will make it enjoyable. I have tried shooting bare shafts cut at the 28.5 inches with 100 grain tips. I get an arrow in the target that has the tip on the right side of the bullseye and the nock part on the left side of the bullseye. Make sense? I don't know if this is spine related or rest related. This is with center shot set. (String down middle of riser and the center of the arrow down the center of the string) one problem I ran into with this is that with the rest I am using, trophy ridge vertical drop rest, it is maxed out to the left. I have no more ajustment to thr left if I need it. Should I get a different rest?? I don't have tons of money and need to start getting it ready for hunting season, but I don't want to settle either. Thanks, brian.
Side note: my wife bow has a wisker buisket on it if youall think that would be a better choise in rest? Its not the expensive one, but would that be a better rest to start out with?? Just throwing out ideas. Thanks guys, brian.
