Very confused about something. Bought a Heli-M and the specs on the stock bow were 60 lbs. max weight and 28" draw length. However, we changed the cams out to change my draw length to 28.5".... My problem is that I have the limbs maxed out right now and I'm only pulling 55 lbs. Does changing the draw length decrease the max draw weight??
I would assume it would have some impact but to what degree I have no clue. What did the tech at your pro shop say? Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2
Didn't know about it at the time. Pulled 55 lbs the first time and wanted to leave it there cause I was just healing from an arm injury.
Regardless a half inch shouldn't make that big of a difference. The limbs on every Mathews bow I have owned have exceeded the limb max. My Heli maxes out at 72.
I'm wondering if I have the wrong limbs. Its marked 60lbs. on the limb though. I tighten the bolt down until I simply cannot tighten it any more. It shouldn't be very difficult to turn them to max out the weight right? Maybe I will just stick with 55lbs. and get some CX Piledrivers (250)... that set up should be pretty ideal I would think. Basically just want to be able to blast through bone. Shooting slick tricks btw.
All bows will very slightly from max and min weight, but 5 pounds is too much out. I wouldn't just leave it. More than likely it is due to an issue and leaving it could cause some serious damage. First, are you sure the pull tester is correct? I have one that only goes to like 63 pounds, junk piece of crap. Next, take some measurements. Is the ATA correct, the brace height... measurements like that. Also, put it up next to another heli'm. Are the limbs deflecting the same? Are the cables on the right rollers? Just some ideas to get you started, good luck in finding the problem.
Wondering if you lost some string twists when the cam was swapped out? I would bring it to a Mathews dealer and tell them you want to verify the bow is in spec and let them know it's only at 55lb and at apparnt max weight - which they can also verify like Indy says.... You can do a quick timing check on the Helim using the timing dots on the cam. Take a steel tape and lay them over the two dots pointed towards the idler wheel. It should run parallel to the string. If it's point down, away from the string, more than likely you are going to need twists added to your string to bring back into spec and timing... You'll probably want to verify ATA and idler lean too while you are at it....
Make sure all specs are correct. I'm guessing the cam is a little out of time. A couple twists in the CABLE, will add a few pounds to the draw weight. SCFox