but if my sight was spot on for my lighter arrow, couldn't i compare the point of impact from the heavy arrows to where i was aiming? sorry to keep beating a dead horse, but i guess i still don't understand. the hesitation to augment a st axis arrow is that i'd have to go with a stiffer spine and play around with inserts hoping to achieve the same results. also, pending a conversation i'll have with ABS, the tapering of the arrow might be more than just a marketing ploy.
No, the mis difference is all that matters. You won't be going to the field until you've sighted in so how much arc difference is irrelevant. The only thing that matters is how much lower the heavy arrow will be in a 5 yard misjudge of yardage or 4 or 3 or 10, whatever you misjudge by. Again, total arc difference doesn't matter, only the arc difference in the short amount you misjudged matters. As for spine, unles you are on the extreme low side of spine, you will be fine shooting your normal spine with alot of weight up front. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
I must be seeing something wrong...feelin real dumb lol. I see the arrows on the left (the lighter ones if I remember right) are only an inch or 2 apart. But the right ones are far apart, probably close to a foot. Am I seeing something wrong?
The 2 bottom arrows are less than 2" from each other. The top ones are less than 1" from each other. These arrows were not shot from a machine, they were shot by hand and group sizes need to be accounted for but the drop is only a couple inches different. This is 70 fps and over 200 gr difference in arrow weight. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
This might help. My cat is a normal size cat so as you can see, this target is not a huge target. Lol Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
Thanks for the information, Here in South Africa we dont have the ferral Hog problem. I watched this video on Friday which helped me understand the problem you guys experience with the hog shields.
cmonsta is not only red headed but he is also colored blind. He could not see the red knocks in your pic.
so i got off the phone with ABS today, and they clarified some things for me. regarding trajectory, what they claim is that their tapered design is to be compared with their 650gn arrow versus another company, say GT's 650gn arrow and not the arrow drop of my 450gn axis. makes more sense now. i'm still undecided regarding if i'll purchase a dozen, but i will say they do fly well out of my bow. are there any other test (aside from chrono) that i should perform?
They aren't the only tapered shafts. Arrow dynamic makes a nitro stinger that is half the price and I have used them but the axis is a hard arrow to beat. However,they are lighter than the ones your trying out now. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
Chrono Test: Shot: 1 2 3 450 Axis: 256 257 256 645 Grizz: 218 219 218 Per the calculator on ABS website: Kinetic Energy (Ft lbs) Momentum (slug ft/sec) 450 Axis 65.47 51.15 650 Grizz 68.58 62.92
the biggest increase was in momentum, which makes sense. now i just gotta convince myself that the trajectory is okay lol
Sight in and go shoot some odd yardages and compare to what you have now. I think you will find your point of aim does not change, so that really only leaves the "miss difference". Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
that's the part about trajectory that undergirded my earlier post. because of the rate of fall is much steeper, i know i risk a much greater margin for error if i misjudge yardage. i use a rangefinder, which mitigates that a little bit, but at the end of the day, it's whether or not i feel confident in my ability to execute a well placed shot. i do like how much more quiet the bow is, which is truly what surprised me. i didn't think it'd be that big of a difference.
That's just it, it isn't a much greater margin of risk. You're only talking about a 1/4"(on average, until you reach the 40+ yards) per yard difference. That's why keep telling you to sight in and test. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
