Since getting my bow this past winter, I've been shooting 2-4 times a week from 10, 20, 30 and 40 yards. My groups get more 'loose' as distance increases, but at 30 yards (which is where I practice from the most) I'm usually putting in 4 inch groups or better. I'm started off shooting 60 pounds and have worked up to around 67. I've been shooting CE Mutiny 250 arrows w/100 grain field tips, whisker biscuit rest, 2" vanes (not sure what else to tell...). Yesterday I picked up some 100 grain Muzzy MX-4's and put on the practice blades and went out to try 'em out. I couldn't put two of 'em side by side to save my butt. They were all over the place no matter where I aimed. They aren't hitting consistently high, low, left or right. Just all over and I even missed the block entirely once! Went back to the field tips and got my usual groupings. I'm on a pretty limited budget, so I can't go changine everything all at once. I need some advice, though, anything would be really appreciated to try and get tuned up before deer season in the fall. I tried cranking up to 70 pounds with no change nor when I dropped down to 60. It's really frustrating.
Sounds to me like your rest needs tuned but I'm not the guy to help with that. I'm sure someone will help you out here.
Thanks for the reply, but I don't know; since there's no consistency to the pattern, I don't know if moving the rest is gonna help or not. I'm just spraying arrows at this point. I've read a lot of these posts and I'm kinda leaning towards the arrow spine, but I don't know to really calculate that or maybe arrow weight? Again, not enough experience to really know and not enough funds to just go throwing money at it. I have figured out a way to sort of 'bench test' by bracing the bow on a metal arm so I hope that takes much form out of the equation. When I shoot braced, I can put the field tips in 2 - 3 inch groups at 20 yards and repeat it over and over. With the Muzzys on, I can't even shoot a 12" pattern!
You need to paper tune your bow. I was having this same problem when i got my new bow this winter. I would put great groups together with the field point but the practice broadheads would be all over the target. I was told to paper tune my bow and realized the I was getting a low right tear. I used the Easton paper tuning guide and adjusted my rest accordingly and now I can put my field point and my broadheads right nest to each other.
Paper tune it or have your hop paper tune it. If its dead on, I would put money on form issues. That's not as easy as twisting an Allen wrench. Beoadheads, fixed blades more so than mech, will show flaws from tuning to form flaws. Hooting distance out past 30yd, particularly 40+ will magnify those flaws. Try to stay really consistent with your anchor points and the bone to bow contact with your now hand. Also try shooting open handed with your bow hand. This helped me the most other than focussing on anchor points.
CE mutiny 250 have a .400 spine. I think your underspined. Try lowering the draw wght to 60 to see if that changes anything.
I appreciate the info. I'm sure it could be form; I haven't shot a compound in many years, but Its coming back to me. I try to anchor in exactly the same spot and keep my left hand pretty much open every shot. I'm more than happy to drop the draw weight a little bit. My middle-aged shoulders aren't what they used to be. I found that Easton guide and theres a lot of great info there. Thank you for that, OKHunter. Thank you guys.
I thought that as well but i checked the CE site, and with the shaft selector it calls for the mutiny 250's. I also shoot 70LBS and use a 400 spine arrow. I have been told i am under spined several times but the Easton shaft selector also says that the Axis 400 match my DL and DW.
I tend to like a spine a little on the stiff side. Even though it falls within the chart isnt it on the edge of going to a heavier spine? Either way if he were to lower the wieght he would at least maybe eliminate the spine as the issue.
Let me get you to try one thing before you go changing stuff. Shooting only one Muzzied arrow, shoot one shot at a time. Again use only one arrow and the same head... do you hit the same spot consistenly now? If so, it is not likely a form issue but a tuning issue. If you are still all over the place, it is likely a form issue. Do this and you should know where to start.
Nah... scientific rule + a little experience. Change only one thing at a time to limit your variables.
I'll do this tomorrow. I dropped the draw weight down to around 60# and I thought the groups were a bit better, but still too much spread to take to the woods. At 10 yards, deadly. 15 yards, still within the zone, but then at 20, 12" groups. I'll try the one arrow advice and let you know what happens. I'll leave the bow at 60 for now. Thank you very much!
Sorry for the delay in replying. Recently lost my job of 10 years and finding other emplyment has taken priority. No luck yet, but I'll find something to do. Anyhow.... The one-arrow shooting session yielded some interesting results. First, paying very close attention to form, to the point of using a video camera and reviewing my technique, my consistency is not as good as I thought it was. Working on that. Second, the single arrow would hit fairly consistently, a little high. I tried another single arrow for about a dozen shots and it, too would hit within a couple inches of my aim point every time, a little right. So....I switched tips. Now, arrow 1 was a little right, not high at all and vice versa. What could be causing this? Is it blade/vane alignment? I can't really do a whole lot different as far as that goes. I was reading newer posts this morning and saw an interesting review on the MX-4's by another member (Muzzy Man maybe?) who also hadn't had the best results with the 4-blade. So now I'm considering a 3-blade Muzzy or other 100 grain broadhead. I'm not really interested in the mechanicals and would prefer to stick with fixed blades so any suggestions would be appreciated. I've heard good things about the Bloodrunners. Would there be any reason to go up to 125 grain field points and broadheads? I should add that I had a few arrows with vanes coming off and decided to try the NAP Quickfletch Twisters. I believe these helped my groups a little by tightening up the gap between the shaft and the whisker biscuit, still leaving about 1mm gap.
Honestly, it doesn't sound like a specific BH issue. I shoot 4 blade Muzzy most of the time but I can switch between a 3 blade Muzzy, 4 blade Muzzy, Expandables, Grizz Tricks and Snuffers which are huge and will not see any significant flight difference. If there is an issue with your spine stiffness, form, contact or tuning, the BH will magnify it but different head types will respond differently. You are shooting 250 spine at 27" and 60# with a 100 grain BH. Is this correct? I am seeing 400 spine is correct. My next step would be to purchase one or two 400 grain arrows and try them. I'll bet that dials you in after you re-tune for that spine stiffness. http://www.huntersfriend.com/carbon_arrows/hunting_arrows_spine_chart_by_deflection.htm
Thanks, MM. I'll try that. I just came back in from another session (about 60 shots) at 20 and 30 yards. Little left to right wind, nothing major. I really tried to focus on my form, right down to my breathing and maybe a very, very slight improvement, but nothing to write home about. Funny thing is, if I draw slowly, then anchor, then aim, the arrows seems to vary more than if I draw it straight back to the wall, half exhale and do an anchor-aim-release more quickly. I'm guessing this is where form is coming into play. But even more peculiar, the bow even sounds different. Is this Martin Threshold a POS? I know it's on their lower end, but I can't afford (especially now) a $500 bow. I just need to get good enough to put meat on the table by fall and I'm hoping it isn't the equipment.
If the bow sounds different, I'd suspect torquing or vane contact. At either rate, you must be properly spined to be consistent. You may even try feathers (my preference) but again, one change at a time and never expect any change to fix improper tuning or form.
