General Questions

Discussion in 'Traditional Archery' started by TedderX, Dec 31, 2016.

  1. TedderX

    TedderX Newb

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    1. Who makes the best one-piece recurve bow? Everyone knows Bear but is there other companies with the same quality and prominence?

    2. Design changes. My father has an Indian Archery Hunter from 1969(ish) and I have a Fleetwood Summit II (bought a few weeks ago). The limbs on his bow are designed differently. They're shorter with less of a recurve and consequently there are no string grooves. All the recurves I've seen now-a-days are longer with more recurve and string grooves. Why the design change overtime?

    3. Broadheads. I'll be hunting whitetail deer in north Georgia. Our deer our smaller thank you might think. I know I want fixed blade and cut-on-contact. What design is best for harvesting this animal though? 2 blade, 3 blade, or 4 blade?

    4. Fletching jig. Can you use either a left wing or right wing fletching but still use a straight clamp?

    5. Limb quivers. The kind that wrap around the outer-most part of the riser is what I want because neither of our bows have mounting holes. We both want 3-arrow quiver but don't like any that 3 rivers archery offers. We won't want leather. We want something plastic or rubber or something like that. Dad has an old one from Apache called "The Swinger". That company no longer exists from what I can find.

    6. String wax. How important is string wax? How often should you use it? What details do I Need to know?

    7. Making strings. How hard is it? Is it worth the cost of it? Any general info about it?
     
  2. woodsman

    woodsman Weekend Warrior

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    There's a number good one-piece bows, Martin archery makes some plus many custom bowyers. The longer limb design makes a smoother, easier draw without stacking. If you have a draw over 28" it can be very noticeable. The increase in recurve makes for a harder shooting bow and the string grooves help prevent limb twist. 2,3 or 4 blades, I think it's mostly a personal preference. I do recommend 2 blade broadheads for lighter poundage bows because they do penetrate the best.. If your clamp is straight you can use right or left wing feathers.. just don't mix them on an arrow.. You'll have to keep looking at quivers until you see something you like. I don't know how many 3 arrow quivers you'll find. Watch your string for areas of wear or fraying and apply wax liberally. I like to use a piece of leather to rub the wax into the string, brisk rubbing with the leather will generate heat to melt the wax into the string.. I make all my own strings, you just can't go buy one here. I've got a number of different length bows plus I used to make my own selfbows so I needed to make various length strings. I make strings from two colors of B-50 using the flemish twist method. I can give you the measurements of my string board. If you have just one or two bows I'd suggest having an extra string for each. I look at it as just another part of my gear that I can make and I enjoy doing it..

    chris
     
  3. Arkyinks

    Arkyinks Weekend Warrior

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    1. Bear, OMP, PSE, Martin, Samick and there are others. Buy from a local shop or on line from Landcaster or Bowhunter Super Store in case of a problem. I have a OMP.

    2. Shorter bows (less than 58 inches) are often youth models or for shorter draws. 62 to 68 inch bows are more forgiving and longer draws.

    3. I use Magnus Snuffers SS and used Bear Razor Heads for 30 years. SHARP is the key... so be able to sharpen.

    4. No problem ... do not mix on shaft.

    5. Quivers on bows are in the way. No help.

    6. Every time I shoot.
     
  4. Arkyinks

    Arkyinks Weekend Warrior

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    7. I get mine made local but can order on line. Lazy.
     
  5. Artem256

    Artem256 Weekend Warrior

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    There’s many one piece makers. Ranging from a couple hundred bucks, to 2-3k$ custom works of art. Now one benefit to take downs is you can up the poundage by swapping in heavier limbs, also should limb damage occur its cheaper to replace just the limbs.

    Fletching jigs, left wing right wing just which wing the feather is from on the bird. Affecting flight is more of a myth. However if you get a left wing jig, use left wing feathers or vice a versa with a right wing jig. So far I have a left wing jig.

    Waxing your string is very important, it protects the string fibers from friction, and the elements. My personal rule of thumb is always check the string after a shoot, make sure it feels “tacky”, if not wax it. I use string snot.

    Quivers, i prefer back quivers so I cannot be much help there, same with string making i havnt tried that yet.
     

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