Raise your nock or drop your rest if your bareshafts hit high. Try your rest first. Your spine is probably fine, these bows need to be shimmed and hats need to be swapped one side to the other or they need to be changed out with a different set of shims from Matthews. I don't know you or how you shoot, but I wouldn't go changing arrow spines unless you are 100% sure that is the problem. Download OT2 or Archers Advantage and it will tell you your proper spine for your setup.
I haven't made any adjustments to my bow because I'm switching to deer crossing archery target LD 350's with a 150 grain glue in tip. I haven't had to make any adjustments except for high low on the chill R with any arrow I've shot. I'm sure the target arrows will tune just fine. Sent from my SCH-S968C using Tapatalk
Wouldn't the floating yokes be the exact same as a binary cam bow no yokes? I just got a high country X11 an I'm playing with it now it has some lean in it but going to play with draw length an then swap limbs around Sent from my SM-G928V using Tapatalk
Hey did you ever figure out what was going on. I have the same basic yoke system as you do an I have mine really really close Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Go to your Mathews dealer and order a tophat bushing kit. For $20-$30 you will have what you need to make the necessary adjustments. It moves the cam to accomplish the same thing you would do with a bow that has yokes so you can tune to true centershot. Just requires a bit more pressing and work to get it there.
You don't need to order any sort of kit. Have bow tech at shop press bow, take the bushing on the right and move it to the left, one on the left move to the right. That's it. Do it to the TOP CAM.
