Uhhh... I am with TM. If you can't get a Slick to tune, it's not the head. Switching brands isn't going to help, instead, spend the money on going to a pro and have them look things over.
Ditto this, I've set up at least half a dozen bows and not had an issue with Slick Tricks.... They are going to fly as good as any BH out there from my experience. Thunderheads or Muzzy's are not going to fix a tuning problem....
Here are some side by sides. The first two are the rest and rest with arrow that I have it set for for the rages. The second two are the rest and rest with arrow at the setting for the slicks which shoot high by a few inches at 20 yards. I will say that if I can't get the slicks to work, the rages will be on my arrows and I can't shoot good groups at 40. My personal limit for shooting at a deer is 30 though. Thanks again for the insight! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Based off the alignment mark it looks like nock high and that shouldn't create a high hitting broadhead group. My best guess would be un level nick travel due to cam sync being off.
another head to try is Bloodrunner they are kinda a hybrid of a fixed and mechanical I use them when shooting through the shoot through mesh in my blinds if I have to they fly like a field point and expand on impact. but if you want a true fixed head I like the G5 Striker
You need to do your elevation adjustments with the string loop, not your rest. The arrow should go straight across the machined marks on the riser. Sounds to me like you have a can timing issue as well.
Ok. I read to move the rest. Sounds like I am taking a trip to the shop! Thank you for the help! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
So I am noodling this and came up with a few questions. Shooting fp's and rages I could group reliably out to 50 when practicing and I was touching arrows when practicing with the fp's at 20. I switch to the slicks and have tuning problems so I take some steps as described above and get close but not on. Tried some thunderheads and they hit with the rages and fp's. What issues would cause the slicks to group differently? All heads are 100 grains on the same arrows. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
hey, watch that "noodling"...you didn't even buy me dinner. Could get you into trouble real fast. OP: I am not sure what would cause slicks to fly very differently than thunders. I don't think you have listed your spine, poundage, and draw length yet; all of which are necessary to give you good advice. I do agree that your nock point is too high (arrow is not parallel to the line on the riser) and your cam timing may be off as well. I can say w/o a doubt that slicks are pretty much tied with G5 Montecs as the easiest tuning fixed BHs I've ever shot, and that's with 3 different types of fletching for comparison. Old school 4 blade Muzzys are admittedly bit of a pain to zero. Other than that, most of the big name fixed heads fly true with a well-tuned bow shooting a proper spine.
I am shooting 60 pounds at a 27 inch draw with GT Velocity xt 400. 100 grain heads, nocturnal nocks, and straight blazer vanes. I will be more careful about my noodling! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Correction on the draw it is 28.5. I am thinking, not noodling, about the nock point and cam timing. Let me see If I understand this correct...if my nock point is lower than centershot, then I have more string above the nock than below. So when I draw the top cam is rotating less than the bottom cam, thus creating my timing issue? Is this right? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
No, thats just a nock travel issue. Cam timing has more to do with strings and cables that have stretched and allowed one or more cam to rotate out of adjustment. Look at your cams, there is a while line on each that represents a timing mark. These are purely for reference but they should be in line with the corresponding cable.
Here is an example. This cam is slightly under rotated. I will likely need 2-3 turns put into the cable.
maybe I'm wrong (Easton's shaft selector chart is offline at the moment) but using the Carbon Express' selector and my own personal judgement; I'd say you should be shooting more in the 340/350 spine area. I've never shot Gold Tips so I could be off here; but that's my suggestion.
With a 27" draw those .400's are short and stiff. He could damn near push them to 70#'s and be plenty fine. Just for S&G's... I am currently shooting a Bear Agenda 6 (350 fps) at 67# and 27". I am shooting a 26.75" Goldtip XT 7595(.340") with a 50 grain insert weight and a 125 grain head. I am on the stiff side of things even with the added weight up front. It's a fickle draw length.
not sure how much it matters exactly; but the OP did revise his originally stated draw length to 28.5". I'd say he's on the borderline of being underspined. JMO. I'm not a pro shop guy so I'm definitely open to being convinced otherwise. Just curious; but how are you shooting a shorter arrow than your draw length? What rest are you using; or are you using an overdraw?
