That has always been my experience. His 11.6 is not too bad though although I would increase it to see what happens. One of the reasons I like to have a range of different field tips. Try rotating the nocks a third on your bareshaft and even the fletched arrows and see if impact points change. It sounds like there is more than one factor at play here.
Like i had said i had some wierd experiences with a bare shaft myself after i had my bows all tuned , and one of them was to much or to little foc , doing what Finch has going on , it was over 10 12 years ago when i had that issue but i was almost certain it was with a 17% foc bare shaft , i dont quite remember , but to little of foc will also play in that factor , i think i just quit ****ing around and forgot about it since my arrows were driving tacks field points and fixed blades at all my yardages
There is a lot of merit to this suggestion. This close to the season, if BH and FP's are hitting together and BH's are going where I aim at 40-50 yards then I might just let things alone and go hunt as long as you have confidence in your setup.
Well, the bow isn't "tuned" like I want it to be but it will kill deer. My FPs and BHs hit fairly close at 20 yards. At 30 and 40 they open up quite a bit so I compensated with my sights. I can now consistently hit the dot at 20, 30, & 40 yards with my broadheads. At 50, there is a noticeable difference in the centershot. I may try to tweak this a tad. I don't plan on any 50 yard shots anyway unless it's a followup. Heck, I don't even think I'll attempt a 40 yard shot.
I got into the bareshaft war with my Z7 as well. Now, 3 weeks from opening day, I'll be back at square one to paper tune Monday afternoon. One thing I have found to be very real while bareshaft tuning, form! If your form is flawed even a little bit, the bare shaft arrow will not fly true. I am truly beginning to question whether the bareshaft tuning is necessary or not. I mean, if you're splitting nocks with field tips and Bh's are extremely close, does it matter what the bareshaft does? Like I said, I'm very much an advocate for a "super tuned " bow (if you will), but hw far do you take it and at what point do you stop?
I stop when i'm shooting my heads with my field points , i dont go crazy anymore , infact paper tuning is out of the question for me also , i french tune and walk back tune till perfect and then i lock everything up there , my personal oppinion bare shaft tuning is for the birds .
Yes, I have adjusted the poundage. I really think there is something to the riser torque that I've been reading about. The only cure is going with a shoot thru which I probably won't do since season starts in October. The bow will still be able to effectively kill a deer. I've never really put much time into bareshafting before. I was so suprised that my FPs and BHs were hitting so close together after reassembling my bow that I thought I'd give it a try. After doing a little research...it seems it is nearly impossible to get a bareshaft to fly true from these 09 Centerpivot bows.
