European mounting

Discussion in 'DIY Archery & Hunting Projects' started by t8rsalad, Sep 7, 2015.

  1. t8rsalad

    t8rsalad Weekend Warrior

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    Evening fellas,

    I've started a DYI European mount of last year's buck today (life finally gave me a partial day to do that). I had it in the Buck Boiler all day and got off the remainder of the junk skin/hair. I did notice that during the process today, the skull sank into the water and there are a couple of spots on the antlers that now appear lighter colored. Is there any way to fix that for this buck? I've been reading that next time, it's best to wrap the base of the antlers in tin foil. Any truth to that?

    View attachment 61464
     
  2. okcaveman

    okcaveman Die Hard Bowhunter

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    Iv never used a buck boiler (I use a 22 quart roasting oven for the same purpose) , but I can say, any part of the antler that would contact water should be covered. I say that not because of discoloration as iv not noticed that, but because the fats that melt and float to the top will coat the bases and is a major PITA to get off.
    Looking at your photo, I am assuming that is what you have there. Elbow grease and hot water is all I know to tell you.
    Great buck by the way

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  3. early in

    early in Grizzled Veteran

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    I boil mine in a big pot and make sure the antlers aren't in the water, just the skull. If I killed that buck he'd be at the taxi. lol
     

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  4. t8rsalad

    t8rsalad Weekend Warrior

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    Elbow grease and soaking the buck in hot water with dish soap has done the trick. Just got a few small spots I'm going to do with the used toothbrush. Once that's done, then it's time to start the bleaching process. Got the cream tonight and should have it done by Friday evening. As for mounting it, I've got the buck in my profile picture plus another I had euro mounted in the "man cave"/office. I'm starting to run out of wall space, so this was the most economic and efficient use of space. Just one of those new dad things. I'm losing space with the main office now the kiddo's room.
     
  5. t8rsalad

    t8rsalad Weekend Warrior

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    So I'm trying to use developer cream for the whitening agent. So far, I'm not seeing any major differences. Any ideas? Am I doing something wrong on this? Using 40 volume cream. Is this not strong enough or am I just being impatient?
     
  6. okcaveman

    okcaveman Die Hard Bowhunter

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    I like the natural look personally. But 40% should be more than enough. I once did a hog skull in 3% regular peroxide. Just soaked it a day or 2

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  7. Sound Barrier

    Sound Barrier Weekend Warrior

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  8. t8rsalad

    t8rsalad Weekend Warrior

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    So I can't seem to get the skull to a decent white that looks good. At this point, I'm thinking about painting it and moving on. Any other advice? I let it sit coated with the 40 volume all last weekend and no difference.
     
  9. Rampaige

    Rampaige Die Hard Bowhunter

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    I second this! Haha

    Anyways, I just did mine three days ago and also got some discoloration on the bases. I'm looking to do a whitening agent too but I haven't gotten a chance yet. [​IMG]
     
  10. t8rsalad

    t8rsalad Weekend Warrior

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    So to be honest, got tired of messing with the bleaching as it wasn't having the desired effect, so I went with a white acrylic paint to wrap this one up. I'm taking it to Bass Pro tomorrow after work to get him scored. Here's the final outcome. He might be whiter than Ross' teeth on Friends, but it should hold up for quite a while.

    On a side note, how does one rotate posted pictures? 20150921_205342.jpg
     
  11. Stay_Sharp

    Stay_Sharp Weekend Warrior

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    cover with the cream and wrap in plastic wrap and set aside for 2 days and you will see amazing whitening. Dont get it on the antler.
     
  12. Hoytxhunter

    Hoytxhunter Weekend Warrior

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    First off I am new here and hope to learn as well as inform with what I know.

    Anyhow. I use dermestid beetles for my euro mounts. I know not everyone has the place for them. And they put off an odor that wives do not like for some reason. I could go on about why I don't like boiling but that's another subject. As far as the bleaching goes. If you get the #40peroxide from a hair place that will work fine. NOT the cream.

    First make sure the skull is completely dried. You can't put more water in a soaked sponge.
    Get a container like a food storage container that the head will fit in.
    Pour in the peroxide and add the head. The skull needs to be completely submerged. If not the inside of brain cavity will turn green and stink. Don't worry about the base of the horns. That can be fixed later.
    Leave the skull in the peroxide until there are no more bubbles or reaction. Make sure to shake the head once a day to release any trapped bubbles. This could take up to a week. Depending on how clean your skull is.
    Once it stops making bubbles remove and wash outside with water hose.
    Leave in the sun for bleaching. Usually about 3 good warm or hot sunny days. Make sure to lay it on a plastic tote lid.
    Now for the part of the horns that got bleached. Just go to hardware store and get some wood stains that closely resemble the color of your horns. Remember the longer you leave it on the darker it will get. So at first wipe on then quickly wipe off.
    Oh and have the skull upside down so the stain doesn't run or drip on the bone part. Not gonna lie. The horn coloring takes a little practice. There is also a little trick to bringing back the color in sun dried horns if interested. Just ask.

    I hope old this helps. I know it's not the only way. It's just how I do it.
     

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