I tried paper tuning a few times. always shot one with a rip to the left a perfect one then one with a rip to the right. and it didn't matter what adjustments or distance i shot at. I took Hoosier's tip of trying french tuning and it made everything easier to see. You still need to focus on good form as it is still a factor in any tuning method. After french tuning i was going to broad head tune but my field points hit exactly where my BHs, fixed montec cs, did out to 40 yards. Couldn't complain with that result and still shooting that way from this summer.
yes, i have never had a bow that shot bullet holes that also wouldnt shoot broadheads with FP's. Thats a good enough reason for me to keep doing it.
I don't, but accomplish the same things to get to the same end result pretty much... I set up all my bows with a laser and levels (Yes, I can almost replicate the effect by "eyeballing" it, but somehow the tools gives me just that much more confidence in my starting point knowing it's EXACTLY on as a starting point). I then walkback tune, and 98 - 99% of the time, I never have to make an adjustment; in fact, I can't remember the last time I did. I then broadhead tune, and 95% of the time I'd say I've moved my settings less than a 1/32 of an inch to get the same POI between my BHs and FPs. At that point I call it good, keep checking for same POI all throughout the summer and even into the hunting season to ensure nothing's moved, and concentrate on -- as VS would say -- KILLING!
any method of tuning will accomplish the same thing if done correctly. I would not say there is one better method than another but the best method is one you are comfortable with and gets the job done. With that said, I think the real key to tuning, and easy tuning, is to start off with the bow set up correctly, centershot and level nock (or whatever nock point is customary for that bow brand), and a well built arrow that was made for that for that particular bow configuration. Most of the tuning problems I see are because the arrow was made without any thought to the bow. "My draw length is 27" and I want a 26" arrow with an 85 grain BH" without a clue as to what that will do to the dynamic spine out of that bow configuration. Anyway, a bow set up correctly initially and a well built arrow = easy tuning regardless of method.
Exactly my thoughts too, as I sort of alluded to in my post. By way of example, I had an idea for how I wanted my arrows to turn out this year (wanted to go a bit heavier overall by increasing my FOC even further than I had been shooting previously). I was looking at going to a 125-grain head screwed into a 100-grain brass insert. But when a friend and I ran the numbers with that combination affixed to my normal .350 Victory shafts, it didn't spine out right for the bow setup I've become comfortable shooting (BowTech's Overdrive Binary cams at 67 lbs). I called up Victory and changed my yearly order and did the same with Muzzy, telling them to switch my order to 50-grain inserts. When everything came in and I assembled the arrows to match my bow, my first shot was spot-on in my BH testing - because -- as Bruce said -- we built the arrow I wanted but with the bow specifically in mind.
Basically, you sight your bow in at 3 yards and then step back to 55 yards or so and shoot a group. The point of impact should be the same for both yardages; if not move your rest the opposite way of where you arrows hit at the 55-yard mark and shoot again. Start at 3 yards and sight in again moving your sights this time. Then step back and shoot the 55-yard group again. If off at 55 yards, move rest again and keep repeating these steps until your arrows hit at the same point of impact. There will be some variables in, such as arrow speed, etc. For some, the 55-yard sight mark may match up perfectly with their 3-yard pin; for others, it may be 52, or 57...
My advice is to french tune for centershot before paper tuning. At that point you can paper to set vertical but whatever you do,DO NOT move the rest to get a good tear once you have adjusted center. If you are tearing after setting center. You have a spine issue,torque issue or a cam/idler lean issue. This is all assuming you have eliminated any contact issues before starting.
I'm a little confused still on the whole 3yrd and 55yrd pins being the same? I have 0-20yrd pin, 25yrd, 30yrd, 35yrd, 40yrd. I have honestly never tried a shot at 55 yards. Also my rest only adjusts left to right? Did you mean the knock point?
The way French tuning was explained to me was to sight a pin at 10yards. Set a level vertical line down your target shoot at the top of the line at 10 yards then using the 10 yard pin shoot at 20 and 30 also. If the bow is rest is aligned right all 3 arrows should be directly on the vertical line.
No. Just because you are getting a bullet hole at 5 yds does not mean that your arrow is flying correctly at 20....Unless you are paper tuning at 12, 20, 30, 40, etc it is really only a starting point. I set up my bow with a lazer allignment tool, and as long as I am hitting dead on at specified yardages that is really what is important. Also, if my arrows are going into a block target perfectly paralell to each other there is no need for paper tuning.
