Yes. I think it works, especially with BH's, like the above said. Paper tune at the beginning of shooting season, and again about 1 month before hunting season to double check.
Papertuning is the start of the tuning process for me. Then I broadhead tune and 95% of the time it comes out the same. Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk
Nope not at all , i french tune and walk back tune , and my field points and fixed blades are spot on every time
Just a few added questions because I'm thinking about doing a quick paper tune to my bow. I have a tru glu 3 pin sight (1st pin is green, 2nd is red, 3rd is yellow). green- 20 yards red- 30 yards yellow- 40 yards Is that the distance you would usually sight your pins in at? 2nd question......any paper tuning tips?
I do paper tune. I have a 5 pin sight. (green, yellow, red, green, yellow) green = 20 yards yellow = 30 yards red = 40 yards green = 50 yards yellow = 60 yards
Only when I'm trying/setting up a different arrow/weight set up. No need for me to paper tune otherwise from year to year If I'm shooting the exact set up I paper tuned with to begin with. Great tool paper tuning Is!!
5 pin sight 20-30-40-50-60 Paper tuning quick tips. Shoot through newspaper or similar. The arrow needs to be off the string and away from the rest. I try to shoot about 10 feet into a target with the paper about 5 feet from me and the target. The idea is to have the arrow passing through the paper with no external forces exerted on it. If you're tuned you should see the fletching holes in the paper and nothing else. If not tuned, there will be a rip in the paper to the fletching. You'll need to adjust so you only see the fletching.
I shoot through paper at 6, 12 and 15 feet. As was said, paper tuning is the start of the tuning process. Any paper works but I like somewhat sturdy paper about the thickness of butcher paper or a thin paper bag. Shooting through paper is all about good form first. Draw your bow, anchor and close your eyes. Make sure your anchor point is right, grip is loose and everything about your shooting position "feels" right, "feels" like it should. Slowly squeeze the trigger so that the arrow release is almost a surprise. The reason for closing your eyes is that, with them open you will try to aim with your sight and paper tuing is not aiming. It is about shooting with very good form so that you can see the arrow's reaction at different distance. When you start the other tuning processes and you are aiming during those, that is when your tuning will compensate for what your aiming does to your form.
Depends on the reason things are off. If it is a weak spine reaction I lower the DW. If it is a stiff spine I increase the DW. If changing DW is not an option then I will modify my arrow by adjusting tip weight or rear weight. If adjusting the arrow is not an option then I figure out where I went wrong in the initial configuration and start over. With all that said: Most will just move their rest off of centershot to the left or right.
French tune????I wanna call it''freedom tuning''The french smoke(slang 4 letter word for male chicken)
I paper tune. I've played with other types but it really doesn't make too much of difference. If you paper tune correctly, you shouldn't have to make any other adjustments. I can shoot a field point, fixed blade, and mechanical out to 50 yards and tear up the fletchings on the arrows. Take your time, study up, and keep trying until it's shooting perfect.
I'm a little confused, I have a newer bow and i can't seem to keep my groups together. I am solid out to 25yrds then I kinda lose my grouping. My rage practice tip shoots about the same as my field tips but not quite (a bit low). Could i get a how to on the paper tuning with adjusting arrow weight or DW.
Paper tuning just reveals whether you have a stiff or weak spine reaction and nock point is high/low as do other methods of tuning. How to correct that weak or stiff spine is where adjusting arrow tip/rear weight or DW comes in to play. So, first you need to determine what is going on with your setup. Is it weak/stiff spine, fletch contact, high/low nock point, a combination of spine and nock point? Once that is determined you can begin tuning.
How do i determine all this? I don't want to go back to the drawing bored because the season is getting pretty close (10 days) I had just figured i had some form issues that was why my 30 yard shots werent exactly on point.
