This hasn't been my experience for the few bows I've tuned for people that use them. That's not to say there aren't some that tune easier. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2
Tfox I'm at school today and won't hey a chance to look at my bow. I'm going to fleet farm today to find some tuning tools to make it easier on myself.
As I suspected, due to the arrow length, your spine is too weak If you have the XT that is a .340 spine. If you have The XT that is a .300 spine, it should be fine. Why these arrow companies continue to label arrows this way is beyond me and asinine. This is why I buy Easton, I know what I'm getting and I know the quality is second to none. If you can, cut the arrows down to 29 1/2" from the back end and refletch. Also drop the poundage to 62# and this will get you to a tunable situation if you are dealing with a .340 spine. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2
I will look at my arrows when I get home to see if it tells me whether its a .300 or a .340. You want me to cut 1.25 inches off?
Cross reference to their web site if you can to figure out spine. If they are 340, cutting them down will be best. Cutting off the back will clean up any imperfections of the shafts and you won't have to mess with the inserts. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2
tfox I cannot find on my arrow whether they are .300 or .340. According to the website the lost camo ones (which I have) are the 7595 .300 spine. However it also states that they are 10.9 grains on the website but on my arrow it says 10.2 grains per inch. I don't know what to make of this. Also on the website it states the black 7595 are the .340s which I don't have. I can post a pic if you like of my specs to confirm if you like.
You're finding the same thing I did. Kind of a joke if you ask me. These manufacturers just need to quit with this crap and just list the damn spine and be done with it. Tune as if the spine is correct. Then if the broadheads are still hitting right, you will know spine is off. And next time you need arrows, buy some eastons with a 300 spine.:D You could call or email them if you're so inclined. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2
Ok, where I should start with tuning? I read up on french tuning. Should I start with that? Should I paper tune first because that was done yesterday at the shop, however I had my gf bring home some paper so I can do that if need be.
Start with setting centershot. Once set, do not move rest to get a good tear in paper. Adjust yoke to fix tear. You might make a slight tweak to the rest to get broadheads with feild points but double check centershot afterward. If it is off at this point, your spine is probably the issue. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2
is there an article or video on the best way to find centershot by yourself? Sorry that I don't know this, it seems like everyday I'm learning something new about my bow or bowhunting.
French tune is pretty simple. Take a carpenter level and draw a plumb line vertically on your target. Lay pins on line and shoot at 3 feet, adjust pins so the arrow splits line. Move back to 20 yards and lay pins on line and shoot. Adjust REST so arrow splits line. Repeat process at 3 feet. Repeat process at 20 yards until both distances are on the line. Then you can back the 20 yards out as far as you're comfortable. Be it 30 or 40 yards. Or even 20 if that is as far as you're comfortable. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2
pinwheel did not have the venture it had a vxt? so I used that bow. At 61 lbs your current arrow would work. but at 65 lbs you need to step up to a .300 spine arrow.
sorry, didn't put in arrow length. Thought it was off. You need 300 spine regardless and at 65 lb the optimal spine is .294
Alright Guys, I was doing my french tuning and I discovered some very good news. My whole problem has been that I am torquing my bow at my grip. So all this time my form has been off and it was me, not my bow. I noticed this with my new sight. It has the level on it and I wasn't paying attention to it a whole lot but when I drew my bow and gave it a glance I noticed that my bubble was all the way to the left, hence telling me that I was torquing my bow down and to the right at a slight angle. Even though my pin was set on the target my broadhead was hitting down and right and shooting from 20 yards you can imagine how far I was off. Now I need to get in the habit of not torquing my bow and shooting level. Thank you tfox and everyone who has helped me through this frustrating problem. Tim
No problem but so you know, you are canting the bow if the level isn't level. Torquing is twisting the riser at the grip in the left, right direction. You can torque the string as well. The broadheads and field points should still impact the same with a cant, provided you're canting with both. Or did I misunderstand? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2
There's no correction to be made. They're just going where they're pointed. That would be true with torquing because the arrow will be unstable and kicking side to side. A broadhead will take over and steer the arrow. A bow can be tuned and sighted to a cant, just have to have pins square with level. Think crossbow Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2
I must be torquing the bow instead of canting because I was really paying attention to my form and the way I gripped the bow and I started hitting my spots with the braodheads.
If you're torquing the bow, this video will help correct it. http://www.bowtube.com/media/6/get_a_grip/ Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2
Thanks Todd! That video is actually a big help. I actually have been gripping my bow the incorrect way. Jeez what would I do without this forum!
