Thought maybe this thread would be useful for DIY thoughts and asks for help. Can be non-hunting related. For me, I am going to build a utility trailer box (I have a flat trailer with no enclosure.) I was thinking about using non-treated lumber I have laying around and slathering the F out of it with exterior DryLok waterproofing paint. I'd really rather not buy a bunch of pressure treated. Anyone have any experience with or heard of doing that? I did find this YouTube video of a dude built an aquarium using plywood sealed with it. 8 months with no issues. But that's interior at a controlled temp; but it's also constant exposure whereas mine would be weather only. I would still probably take it apart and store it in the winter when not in use.
I just did this bow stand for my son and I. I think It came out pretty good for not having plans and just using spare things laying around. I wanna add a tray to the top for like a range finder or what not. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
What size box are you talking? Why not something premade like a bed toolbox or similar? Some added security with metal and locks rather than wood.
It's a 4.5'x10' all-steel flatbed trailer, and it already has a lockable steel box on the tongue frame tubes. I am just looking to add sides and a tailgate that are easy to take on and off depending on if I want to haul bags of mulch, firewood, that kind of stuff. We're talking 2x4s and 2x10s with stainless hardware. Nothing crazy. I already had the 2x4 tabs welded onto the frame. I think originally it was designed as an ATV/motorcycle hauler as it only had tie down tabs on the bed. QUOTE="picman, post: 1674551, member: 17870"]Before I lend an opinion, in your head, what is life expectancy of your creation?[/QUOTE] Think 5 years would be reasonable to expect. Especially if I am fairly diligent in disassembling it for the winter or if I don't plan on using it for long stretches. Trailer is stored outside but sheltered from the sun but not rain. Mostly I am trying to use materials on hand. I have most of the stuff but maybe 3-4 10' 2x4s. Including the drylok.
I guess I wasn't aware that Drylok made products for wood. Thought it was concrete only. I would think your life expectancy is in the ballpark...maybe even a bit conservative depending on how well you get the wood sealed. Given that estimate, stainless hardware is probably overkill unless it is in the area you intend to pull apart. End wood, where wood overlaps and the areas where bolts penetrate will be your areas of concern. Get those sealed as well as you can and I think you will get at least the 5 years. Just an aside. I replaced the rusted out box on a 98 pickup with non-treated lumber 3 years ago with the same timeframe in mind. I used a clear deck sealer as I had used a rose bud heater to scorch the wood and wanted that to show through. The advertised UV protectant didn't hold up worth ****
You could split the difference between wood and metal. Just a thought ..ever seen videos of guys making metal roofing planter beds? Frame of wood with side panels of the roof panals. You could also either weld or bolt together a angle iron frame to bolt the roof panals to.
Whatever method of construction you use, be careful not to overload your trailer. A breakdown on the roadway would be a pita.
that's actually an interesting idea. Not a welder though, at least not yet. I plan to start getting into that at my next place. My next house will have some sort of pole barn/detached extra garage. Once I retire I will be doing a lot more of that kind of stuff.
Have you thought about doing aluminum (or thin steel) instead? Only reason I ask, is a lot of us who race dirt track have converted our trailers in some way or another. Our cars already weigh a good amount then add in the items we need spares of (parts/tires) - the weight adds up. Wood weighs quite a bit if you're maxing a large enclosure - if you go to something lighter, that you can weld then seal paint - may be the way to go. Depending on what you want to haul.
