Changed from mechanical to fixed blade.....now what?

Season just started down here and I've already had a questionable experience with a
Swhacker and so I've gone to NAP Thunderheads. I know I need to now broadhead tune my bow but being new at shooting compound bows I'm not sure what I should expect to see different in shooting broadheads?

 

All it takes is one experience, at least you did the right thing and switched after something bad happens. Now you can just shoot and sleep better knowing that that it won't happen again. Expect not to wonder what could go wrong because now nothing can, good choice!

 

First thing you need to do is make sure your bow is paper tuned. After that you need to spin tune your braodheads to your arrow. Once everything is set you shouldn't have any troubles at all with the TH's. excellent flying head.

 

Thanks. One non-retrieval is one to many. IMO

 

It was paper tuned before with field tips and I'm shooting carbon Expresses which were perfectly straight before.
I do have one practice arrow w/BH shooting off but the other two seem good. Or as good as can be expected gor my shooting:/

 

What happened with the Swhacker?

 

Was wondering myself. Don't share it if you don't want to, I know not recovering a deer is gut wrenching, but if you would let us know what the shot placement/distance/angle was it may help others considering using that head. Personally, I'm good with the head I have been using, but I like to hear about what other heads are/aren't doing.

 

Thunderheads have been my favorite for a looooong time, good choice.

 

I drilled a 200lb hog at 2yd and never found him. Found a blood trail but it wasn't enough. 3 of us were out stomping through palmetto bushes till 10pm and went home empty handed. I was not happy about it. We were hunting with a dog and he just stopping tracking after the shot.
Lots of things could have gone wrong, I'm just eliminating any question so that this one doesn't come up in the future.
I know expandibles work better for deer than hog but I want one BH for both. I can hunt hog year round down here.

Ps. I also like the fixed blades for snakes when you come across one.

 

I Don't use fixed blades anymore but I do know that certain ones need to be indexed to your fletchings and you do want to spin test them to make sure there is no wobble do to a bad cut or insert on the arrow.
Again I do not use fixed blades but I listen closely and ask alot of questions at my local shop and there was a guy there the other day that switched to fixed and this is everything they did for his arrows.
As far as I remember they paper tuned the bow with a field point first to make sure the rest was set correct then went to the arrow adjustments.
Good luck

 

Not calling you out, but whoever led you too that conclusion is wrong. Do you have to shoot shoot four fletch for four blades?

 

Or a 2 fletch with a 2 blade?

 

When I come across poisonous snakes, I'm doing my thing and taking him out.
I don't want to find him by mistake the next time.
Had a friend almost get off'd by a small cotton mouth bit to the hand.
Hit the SPOT gps and had him air lifted out of the Everglades.

 

Honestly, with the new super short fixed blade heads out there that fly like, or close to field points, I don't see a reason to shoot a mechanical.

If you just switched, I'd highly recommend making sure first, your bow is paper tuned. Then go out and start at say 20 yards, shoot a group of field points and then shoot your broadhead arrows. Most likely, you will find that the BH's hit differently. I've never shot the Thunderheads, so I can't comment. But I know when I used to shoot the Muzzy standards, they'd hit to the left or right of field points. Once you determine that your BH's are hitting consistantly to one side or the other, or up or down from the field point groups, move your rest left or right, in the direction you want to move the BH's. As for vertical moves, just move your knocking point or your rest. With a little tinkering, you can get them hitting in the same place. Once you do, you'll be confident that your bow is tuned better and will most likely be a bit quieter as well.

 

Along with that thought, you will need to add a fletch if shooting a 4 blade broadhead. They must be aligned perfectly. Even if they are off a 1/8" it could result in lost game.

Nothing can go wrong with a fixed blade like someone mentioned. The animals will just fall over dead no matter where you hit them. A fixed blade has never caused a poor blood trail...ever.

 

Is that a joke?
Clearly i said it depends on your BH.
There are 4 blafe which you can not index, there are 3 blade
That just dont need to be indexed.
Why do u guys always look to belittle anyone elses advice ? I hate to burst your bubble but there are people out there besides you that can work on thier bows.

 

Just because we disagree does not mean we are belittling any advice.

So, to understand what you are saying: Only certain 3 blade BH's need to be aligned with 3 fletches? Then, would you be able to shoot those same 3 blade BH's with an arrow with four fletches? Which make and model 3 blade BH's need to be aligned? Does the type of fletch (feather, low profile vane, high profile vane, model of vane such as nap quikspin) matter and if so which model fletches need to be aligned with 3 blade BH's?