For all my brother's in arms out there I wanted to pick your brain ( only if your saw is orange though) . I'm looking for a wedge that's twice as thick as a normal one( 3-4 inch ) and no more than 8inch . What do you guys use. I would prefer to use a plastic one but fear I'll need to adhere two together and make my own tool. I don't mind doing this but for a few dollars I would be happy to buy one.
Also can I get a ruling on this, I heard that if I'm cutting a tree after the drag out and it's muddy I should run a chain at 25° instead of 30°
I've made wedges out of wood and they worked great. I don't know what you mean by the 25 or 30 degree chain thing. I carry all my logs out with my grapple so there is not a lot of mud. Sent from my SM-G981U using Tapatalk
We use a pulley that can drag them out of the woods which is great so I can get them into a feild but makes them covered in mudd.As for the degrees, I sharpen to 30° by hand but my local arborist said when he knows it's a dirty cut he opens it up to 25° for just that chain and swears it helps retain edge.
I see. I have a bench sharpener and don't remember the angle it is set at. Sent from my SM-G981U using Tapatalk
I assumed it was what I call professional boner. Whenever you talk to a expert in their field they have a tendency to get over technical to impress or intimadate you or sometimes just to look cool or cuz they are a asshat. I don't see how that degree difference would be substantial.
I run both Orange and Red saws so I don't know if that will kick me out of this conversation but when I'm wedging a tree I still usually use a metal wedge. I have never seen the need to use a thicker wedge although on a few extreme cuts, I have used multiple wedges and sometimes do use synthetic wedges. As to the angle of your chain for cutting mud covered logs. I've found that when blocking up trees that have been drug through the mud that cutting the riders (depth gauge on your cutter) lower than they should be seems to help the chain cut smoother and longer. I haven't found anything that will lengthen the life or sharpness of a chain if you are cutting wood that had dirt impregnated in the bark. I try to keep my logs up at least a little to avoid dragging them completely through the mud.
I run an orange saw so I'll chip my two pennies in. My grandpa was so cheap we made our own wedges out of wood, walnut to be specific. I have a couple of steel wedges but the last time I knew I was going to need them, fell had to be perfect due to limited space, I cut new wood ones bc its what I know. The steel ones I have are ones I found out on my new farm, I suspect my grandpa cut wood ones bc it was easy and who cares if you lose them.
You are looking for a wedge to do what? Is it for felling trees? or are you splitting logs? As for degrees in your tooth, you won't notice a difference between 25 and 30. The biggest thing with changing the degrees on teeth is for finish quality. For example I mill logs with my saw and I use a chain filled down to 10 degrees and the reason is it supposed to put less chatter marks on the face of the wood and give a smooth finish. Also I wouldn't file your rakers down much. Get a gauge and keep it in spec. If you take it down too far you will be fighting the saw all the time from gouging the wood and stalling the saw. One stroke across your rakers with a file could change alot. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
And for all you wood cutters regardless of chaindaw color... this thing is the back saving-est tool I've ever owned and cannot do without one now. https://www.thelogox.com/collections/featured-products/products/logox-3-in-1
I always preferred plastic wedges because used to drop a lot of trees across the lean takes more wedges closer to the hinge. Most of the trees were wedged rather than cutting till the tree starts falling.
I love the make your own out of wood idea. Can't believe i never thought of that! See that's what makes this forum awesome. Thanks guys.
