I have been considering taking up traditional archery for a while now and my brother got my Grandfathers old recurve a few years ago.(He isn't into hunting and would give it to me) It is a Howatt Hunter , ne plus ultra. It is 62" and has a 50# draw which is more then I can draw without developing some bad habits. It would be really cool to take this hunting again, I am thinking of getting a Sammick Sage with lighter limbs and learning to shoot but I wanted to know if this bow name was good or if I should go with a different bow. I would have the guy at my pro shop inspect it before I shot it of course. Any info on the bow or other good resources on getting into the sport would be much appreciated. Thanks!
A very good bow. Howatt later was taken over by Martin Archery and has a very strong following.. Sounds like a family heirloom to keep. The Samick Sage is a very good bow for the money and an extra set of limbs is only $75.00 so you can't really go wrong with a deal like that.. Chris
Oh I know, and I did do some research and found some good info, but it doesn't hurt to liven up this section a bit does it?
I would get a new string and shoot it. I have my Grandpa's Browning shotgun and turkey hunt with it every year. I set out there and think of him even though he's been dead 45 years. It and a knife is all that is left of his and I hope to pass it to my son and grandson. Honor him by shooting the bow and become a true archer (had to put that in there) . What a treasure!
I definitely intend to, the thing is I can't shoot it at full draw more than a couple times before really arching my back, pointing the bow up etc, I can hardly string the thing. I want to start off the "True way " right with proper form etc so I figure I will get a takedown with some lower weight limbs and work on it over the winter. I am hoping I can shoot it proficiently within a year or two. Thank you for sharing!
I don't know if any of you will read this but I have a bit of a dilemma. I am left eye dominant, and my hands are cross dominant(write with my left hand, but have learned to shoot/throw just as well if not better right handed. I am basically ambidexterous) , I have only ever shot my compound right handed and have had no issues. My grandfathers bow is right handed. Should I just get a right handed sammick and shoot normally? I am already adjusted to doing everything opposite my eye/hand dominance because I have only ever bought right handed bows, since I shoot fine with a compound would it be that big of a deal if I went with a right handed recurve? thoughts?
I can't speak for anyone else as to what will work for you , I'm left eyed dominate , pistol right handed , rifle left handed ( right hand rifle), bow right handed and I can paint with either hand......no problems.
I am a southpaw but in the 4th grade I had a teacher who did not like twisted in the desk to write. So she smacked my hands with a ruler till I wrote right handed. While I write with both hands, I mostly write right handed even now. I shoot gun and bow left handed because of eye dominance but can shoot right handed with gun and bow. I am not as accurate right handed but can get it done. Just keep shooting grandpa's bow but have a slightly longer string made. You will get stronger. Start with a release till shoulder muscles build up then work with fingers till your grip builds up. If you get a left handed bow you may find you are more accurate.
Howatt bows are very much prized by some traditional archers. They started out as Howatt, then Damon Howatt and later owned by Martin archery. All of their bows were beautiful, especially the rare types of wood they used. They made many models of bows but few are prized more than the Hunter. Being 62” made the draw very smooth and decreased finger pinch. These length bows usually meant slower arrow speeds, but the Hunter was just the opposite, it was one of their fastest bows made. My father was a Martin dealer and primarily dealt in only traditional archery equipment. He like many others loved the Hunter, but he always liked shorter bows (he wasn’t a very tall man). When I was young, I started shooting a Martin Lynx (compound, all wood riser, 35% let off) and cedar arrows that we fletched ourselves. But my fathers love for traditional archery got into my blood. I have a few Damon Howatt bows of my own, and many of his after his passing. THESE BOWS GO FOR INSANE MONEY, so don’t let anyone try to buy it off you. If it is in great condition, I wouldn’t be afraid to shoot it some, but I would make it more of a display item. It’s not that you can’t but you would take any other prized family heirloom into the woods and subject it to scrapes & dings. Also, if it’s never been drilled for adding sights DONT DO IT! Nothing brings down the value faster than holes in your bow! Your pic looks like an older model as it only says “Howatt” and has brown glass (fiberglass). There is probably a serial number on it that you can research it’s age. As for your eye dominance issue...... Many people can overcome this as you’ve stated but they will never be as good as they could be by going the opposite way their eye and brain are telling them. Unless of course they close one eye & shoot sights. But that kinda negates the whole traditional shooting style (I may get negative feedback by that statement). As my dad always said, you don’t need a sight to take a piss or to throw a ball, then you don’t need one on your bow. As for the weight, 50#’s was very common. You can build up to it in time. Only shoot a few arrows per day and focus on your form. This is the key to all archery....FORM. If you push to hard you will develop bad habits which will be tough to break. Not sure why someone mentioned getting a longer string. I would get a new string for sure, but the same length. Longer will decrease the fistmill and change many aspects of how the bow shoots. If you have other pics post them up and I’d be happy to help you find info on it. I have 3 Hunters, a Hi-speed, a few others & and my fathers custom made Mamba with clear glass, bubinga riser and singed by Dale Marcy who worked in the Damon Howatt division at Martin Archery. Remember to have fun shooting!
Thank you quickstick, the Serial# is HM58560. I know that means that it was built in 19?5, but I dont know which decade. Here is a better picture of the riser
Wow that’s beautiful. Most of the newer hunters don’t have the two contrasting wood colors. The darker red is either rose wood or bubinga & the lighter is shedua. My spelling has just murdered those, but that’s at least how they’re pronounced. As for the decade I’m gonna guess the 50’s. Just a guess as I’ve never seen one with these colors. But now it’s game on and I’m looking into it. Haha.
Thank you, if need any other info let me know, I tried looking it up but it didn't seem that there was a clear way of identifying the age. correct me if I am wrong but the only way to tell is what kind of materials were used to build it.
Some of my fathers & mine From left to right. All Damon Howatts Hunter - I’ve always been afraid to harm the finish taking the Camo off. But used it for the majority of hunting when I was mid teens. 50# 62” Super Diablo or Super D for short - 52# 60” Coronado. 48# 60 Hi-Speed. 52# 58” Black Mamba - these were originally maple laminated bows dyed black. Dad had this one custom made with bubinga riser, a maple lamination in the deepest part of the grip so it would create a “x” and clear glass. To the best of my knowledge there were only 3 made. My dad had two & his best friend ordered one as well. This one is 58# & 58”. I gave the other one 45# to another good hunting buddy of his after his passing Martin Lynx compound. Dad won the NYS Champ for bare bow (no sights no release with this. Shortly after he passed, I shot a small buck with it. At that time the bow was over 20 yrs old and original string. Just wanted to prove I could then give it the retirement & glory it deserved.
Wow this gets complicated real fast. “Since the mid-60's, the Howatt numbering system has been as follows, "The letter(s) in front of the serial number (if present) represent the model (for example, HH xxxx is a Howatt Hunter) The first number indicates the last digit in the year of manufacture (HH 9xxx was a Howatt Hunter made in 1969, 1979, 1989, or 1999) The next numbers indicate the chronological sequence of manufacture (HH 9123 was the 123rd Howatt Hunter made in model year 1969, 1979, 1989, or 1999) Of course, all of this is useless unless you know the variations between the model years and their identifying characteristics." Based on the characteristics of your bows, I would venture to guess they are early 80's versions.” Taken from an article on Trad Gang.com Sounds like ud need some very detailed pics or find an expert to give the yr.
Thank you, and those are some beautiful bows! I especially like the Momba & the Super Diablo. Although the serial thing doesn't make much sense. That bow says Howatt Hunter on it, yet the serial number starts with HM and not HH, what would that stand for?
I’ve always loved the Super D’S. But they were also prized by target shooters with sights. Therefor they all had screw holes in them. This one does as well. HM...... I don’t know. Honestly I was pretty shocked while reading the thread. I had no idea how intricate their serial #’s were. This thread was posted in 2009 and he obviously knew his stuff. There were also mentioned some were mislabeled and that Howatt tinkered around with some early models. Even changing the lengths as low as 58”. Hunters were always 62” in my brain but It sounds like those were very rare To me, recurves and long bows are a piece of art. So much talent went into their design, shape, beauty and function. It’s a lost art and not to found much any more. My dad would say “they have curves like a beautiful woman”!
Well thanks for muddying that up for me! You are right though, it is a beautiful piece of art, thank you for the information and the warning. I knew Hunters had a following, but I didn't know the bow was worth much more than $100 bucks. Not that I would sell it, but thanks
